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Old 09-09-2006, 09:45   #1 (permalink)
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Winter storage

I asked this on another forum and had varied responses, so figured I'd ask here as well.

What do you do for winter storage, for those of you who need to store it from October-April?

I've been told to fill up the tank and add stabilizer, and some say start it every 2 weeks but others say don't do that as it will cause condensation that will cause rust. Some say unhook the battery and others say don't ....
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Old 09-09-2006, 09:54   #2 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

Stabilizer, start about once a week, disconnect the battery just for the sake of not having to chance charging it. If you have a garage, good deal, if not, try to find a car cover called "noah's arc" or something along those lines. check the stang mags, they normally have an ad for those, it's 200 give or take, but an awesome investment for a car that may be outside.
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Old 09-09-2006, 09:57   #3 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

I found a secure, heated facility for my Mustang for just $85 a month, and weather permitting you can take it out once a month or so, which I'll do just to rotate the tires, get the gas through the system, then wll fill it up before putting it back. I'll be sure to take care of the radiator even though I'll be in a heated environment. They require it be covered which is fine with me. I'm looking forward to being parked next to those Shelbys!

The other car will be in a garage with no heat .... so I'm not quite sure how I'm going to handle that issue yet.
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:14   #4 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

Quote:
Originally Posted by 1966MustangGal
I found a secure, heated facility for my Mustang for just $85 a month, and weather permitting you can take it out once a month or so, which I'll do just to rotate the tires, get the gas through the system, then wll fill it up before putting it back. I'll be sure to take care of the radiator even though I'll be in a heated environment. They require it be covered which is fine with me. I'm looking forward to being parked next to those Shelbys!

The other car will be in a garage with no heat .... so I'm not quite sure how I'm going to handle that issue yet.
Two words, auto . . . start.

LOL! That doesn't seem to be too bad of a deal. Definatly do a flush and fill of the cooling system before you put her up for winter. Nothing beats fresh coolant/antifreeze. I'll make you feel better by taking pics of my rust wagon covered in snow (if and) when it snows this year.

My cheap ass cloth cover got ripped up and ripped off the car the other day in that "tropical depression" that Jersey got hit with. I was driving my Buick thru deep ass puddles like it was a truck and came home to my cover blowing down the street!
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Old 09-09-2006, 10:19   #5 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

I pay more than $85 a month to garage it now (not at my home) and it's not heated. The facility (by JJ Best) has wooden and rubber floors so there will be no dampness. They house about 60 classics every winter ... hope I get to view some of them.

I was pretty psyched until someone told me not to run it because condensation would build and would cause rust on my rust-free car.

The current garage is secure, in a good neighborhood, but I'm a little concerned about blowing snow getting under the door and getting to the underside of my other car, where a cover can't protect it.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:18   #6 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

The condensation issue is not a problem if you let the engine warm up to operating temp and run it for a little bit. Do you have any idea how many engines over the last 50 years have been run in the winter? If you let it warm up and run for a little bit you'll be fine. The heat will "burn" out all the moisture.
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Old 09-10-2006, 10:54   #7 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

I actually said a form of that to the person who mentioned the condensation. I know to run it at least 10 minutes or more so the fluids get pushed through the system and the car engine gets warm. Depending on how it's parked I'll be moving it up and back a few feet as well.

Here is what I was told, copied from my site:

"For what it’s worth, one of the classic car owners at work told me that you should NOT start and idle the car during storage. Some folks think you need to do that to… I don’t know, to keep the battery charged or the juices flowing or something. According to this guy (whose automotive opinions I respect), this routine will create condensation in the exhaust system which will stay there and consequently lead to rust/rot.

I don’t know if that’s true but it makes intuitive sense to me. I think we’ve all seen water vapor (and even droplets) being emitted from exhaust pipes. If you drove the car for a few miles, then everything would get sufficiently heated up to evaporate any condensation. But if you only idle it for a few minutes, the condensation just sits in your exhaust system. Maybe if you ran it for like 15-20 minutes it would be okay, but extensive idling leads to other problems. "
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Old 09-10-2006, 14:20   #8 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

One way or another you will end up with some sort of moisture in your exhaust. Unless you can take off you exhaust every now and then and run a dry cloth thru it.

Running the car for a while will help heat everything up to get some of the moisture out, but even so, hot air rises. You heat the pipes, the pipes heat the water, the water goes up from the botom side of the pipe to the top. Some, if not most, of it will come out, but once there is moisture in there, it's really hard to get it all out.

Really that will do more to get the engine moisture out. Like moisture built up in the crank case and the top of the motor.
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Old 09-18-2006, 20:20   #9 (permalink)
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Re: Winter storage

I'm a service rep for a US marine engine manufacturer, been doing it all my life. How to store a marine engine is critical to it's life.

As you can see from the posts, opinions vary largely here. These are some of my own.

1. I no longer recommend filling a gas tank before long term (more than a few weeks) storage. Fuel quality has gotten so bad these past few years that in spite of using a good fuel stabilizer your fuels octane and overall quality will be poor, at best, by the time spring rolls around. Then you start up your performance engine and run it on low grade fuel. Not good for piston life.

2. If your storage area is heated, you are among the lucky few. In a constant temp environment condensation will be less likely to form in your gas tank.

3. Periodic start-up is not a bad idea, but I don't believe it's a cure-all either.

Pro's are...
a. better for engine and transmission gasket and seal life.
b. gives the starter, alt and any other accessories a little workout and a new resting spot.

Cons include...
a. Condensation in your exhaust. This will not dry out by letting the engine idle. No matter how long you let it run. The exhaust system needs good temp and good air flow to completely dry out.
b. You are starting your engine with little residual oil in the journals and on the piston skirts. A better idea might be to fog (run storage oil through the carb) one time once you put it away. This coats all the internals with a good rust preventative.

Personally, I feel that an oil change, some silicone spray on the engine and electrical system, air in the tires, and a lovingly applied coat of wax is the best thing prior to saying goodbye to your car for the winter months.

disconnect, or take the battery right out, charge it once or twice during the winter, and spend your time keeping the snowblower running....

I'd still put stabilizer in your gas tank but I do like to run it pretty dry in the fall.
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Old 10-15-2006, 16:49   #10 (permalink)
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Smile Re: Winter storage

Hello,

My 6 month storage plan for my 1965 Mustang Fastback.

1st: Using a bucket of soapy water and clear water - Wash.
Then, dry after clear water rinse is applied.
2nd: Wax the car.
3rd: Wash the car cover.
4th: Sweep out the parking place.
5th: Put large plastic tarp over the concrete floor - it acts as a vapor
barrier, it keeps the moisture away.
6th: 1 month prior to storage, change the oil and filter change.
7th: Grease the fittings.
8th: Drive it to less than a 1/4 of tank, drive her for about 40 minutes,
take to the gas station, put 10 oz of Staibil and then fill tank.
9th: Put air in the tires.
10th: Takes about 10 minutes to drive to the barn.
Let her idle another 5 minutes, shut her down.
11th: Pull the battery.
12th Put desacant and dryer sheets in interior, moth balls around the car.
This keeps the little varmits away.
13th: Wait for her to cool off, cover her up,lock the door.
14th: Call insurance company, change coverage to fire/theft for storage.
15th: April 1st - bring her home.
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