1962 Ford Thunderbird Questions - Ford Forums

Gh0st_Preacher · 05-10-2008, 00:31

Hello!

I got a 1962 Ford Thunderbird last August. It's in great condition. I've been told compression is still good, and the engine itself isn't too badly off. I've had it confirmed quite a few times that the Odometer reading of 89,000 is the original. Not messed with. The car is in generally good condition, and runs pretty well.

After a spat at the mechanic (and some problems associated to that...), I've got the car back, and I've got a couple of questions.

1) Timing - How do I adjust it. From what I can tell, it's done by rotating the distributor, but I'm not 100% positive. If so, which direction retards and which direction advances?

2) Carburetor type - Did these come with a 2 barrel or 4 barrel stock? How can I tell the difference? The choke sits over two, but I *think* I see two other barrels not getting covered. I'm not positive on that tho, because I thought they came stock with 2 barrels, but I can see the tag on it that's the original factory tag. I'm stupid, I know...

3) High Idle - This actually involves a lot of other problems. I think I've either got a vacuum leak, a bad carb, or both. For the engine to stay running after a fairly sudden stop (people run out into the street, have to react quickly), I have to set the idle really damn high, which causes problems when I need to cruise slowly. Is there anything I can do to pull the idle down, but keep it going, other than doing a carb swap + vacuum system check? This'd only be an interim deal. I need a newer carb for the added efficiency anyway.

4) Carb Suggestions - I've thought about swapping for a Holley, but I'm not sure what exactly I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it!

Gh0st_Preacher · 05-10-2008, 00:36

Looks like I answered my own question on the amount of barrels, if venturi=barrel, then it's a stock 4.

Am I right?

**tbird100636** · 05-10-2008, 14:12

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gh0st_Preacher

Hello!

I got a 1962 Ford Thunderbird last August. It's in great condition. I've been told compression is still good, and the engine itself isn't too badly off. I've had it confirmed quite a few times that the Odometer reading of 89,000 is the original. Not messed with. The car is in generally good condition, and runs pretty well.

After a spat at the mechanic (and some problems associated to that...), I've got the car back, and I've got a couple of questions.

1) Timing - How do I adjust it. From what I can tell, it's done by rotating the distributor, but I'm not 100% positive. If so, which direction retards and which direction advances?

2) Carburetor type - Did these come with a 2 barrel or 4 barrel stock? How can I tell the difference? The choke sits over two, but I *think* I see two other barrels not getting covered. I'm not positive on that tho, because I thought they came stock with 2 barrels, but I can see the tag on it that's the original factory tag. I'm stupid, I know...

3) High Idle - This actually involves a lot of other problems. I think I've either got a vacuum leak, a bad carb, or both. For the engine to stay running after a fairly sudden stop (people run out into the street, have to react quickly), I have to set the idle really damn high, which causes problems when I need to cruise slowly. Is there anything I can do to pull the idle down, but keep it going, other than doing a carb swap + vacuum system check? This'd only be an interim deal. I need a newer carb for the added efficiency anyway.

4) Carb Suggestions - I've thought about swapping for a Holley, but I'm not sure what exactly I need. Any suggestions?

Thanks for all of your help. I really appreciate it!

I'll answer each question seperately.
1. Timing is adjusted by loosening the distributor clamp and rotating the distributor. Not sure which direction to rotate distributor for advance or retard. You just have to do it by trial and error.
2. If you had the Z code engine, it is the 390 4V (four barrel) V8. It is a Ford 4100 carburetor. The choke is over only the primary (front) barrels. It's not over the secondary barrels because the secondary throttle plates open only at higher RPM's. If by chance you have an M code engine then you have a 390 6V (six barrel) V8. This is three 2 barrel Holley's. Some were converted to the 4V setup due to tuning issues. The choke is only on the center carb.
3. Sounds like you may either have a bad or mis-adjusted anti-stall dashpot. It prevents the throttle plates from slamming shut too rapidly. There is a clearance spec in the shop manual. Fast idle should be set at 1500 rpm, curb idle at around 600-675 rpm in drive (64 spec is 475-500 rpm, but I set mine higher because it seems to run better) Make sure to lube the fast idle linkage with a good penetrating oil and work the choke plate a little with the throttle open enough for the fast idle cam to rotate when moving the choke plate.
4. (and last part of 3.) The Ford 4100 is a far better carb than a Holley. Tuned and maintained right it is a very efficient carb. It is a 600 cfm carb. See Pony Carburetor's site, they do carb. rebuilds and resto primarily on Ford carbs. A great site. Their pocket Ford Carb guide is a great resource. Reproduction shop manuals are readily available. Get one for your 62 T-Bird.
Carburetor, Carburetors, Carbs, Carb Parts. Pony Carburetors - Your Ford Carburetor Restoration and Part Sales Specialist
What body style 62...Hardtop, Landau Hardtop, Convertible, Sports Roadster??? What Color???

Gh0st_Preacher · 05-26-2008, 10:37

Your info is greatly appreciated and extremely informative!

As for the issues I was having with it stalling, I figured out that the choke is pretty much dead, as well as the dashpot. Because the choke is always fully-open, the car has a hard time starting, and doesn't like to move when it's first warming up (for obvious reasons). Once the thing heats up, it's just fine. So that'd explain that.

For the dashpot - is that something that's relatively easy to fix? Or should I send the carb into the site you recommended?

Quote:

What body style 62...Hardtop, Landau Hardtop, Convertible, Sports Roadster??? What Color???

It's a Landau Hardtop, Cream Colored. Got a hell of a deal on it. Body is in great condition, too. The Vinyl was replaced at some point, so she looks pretty good. Need some good polish on the chrome and a paint job and it'll be almost good as new on the outside.

**tbird100636** · 05-26-2008, 15:19

Quote:

Originally Posted by Gh0st_Preacher

Your info is greatly appreciated and extremely informative!

As for the issues I was having with it stalling, I figured out that the choke is pretty much dead, as well as the dashpot. Because the choke is always fully-open, the car has a hard time starting, and doesn't like to move when it's first warming up (for obvious reasons). Once the thing heats up, it's just fine. So that'd explain that.

For the dashpot - is that something that's relatively easy to fix? Or should I send the carb into the site you recommended?

It's a Landau Hardtop, Cream Colored. Got a hell of a deal on it. Body is in great condition, too. The Vinyl was replaced at some point, so she looks pretty good. Need some good polish on the chrome and a paint job and it'll be almost good as new on the outside.

The dashpot is easily replaced, just screws in top a bracket and locked with a nut for the clearance adjustment. If it is the Ford 4100 with the original choke, lubing the fast idle linkage as I stated before will be a start. Open the throttle fully and close it. The choke should close. Open the throttle and see if the choke will open manually and spring back closed. If it doesn't you may have an issue with the spring in the black choke cap. You really should get the shop manual and see how to adjust and take apart the choke. If you're reluctant to do that consult Pony Carburetors. If you do it yourself you may need a hard to find part, and they'll more than likely have it. Make sure the choke heat tubes going to the R. Exhaust Manifold are there and clear. They are readily reproduced. Even if you don't fix the carb yourself get the repro shop manual. It will help with other things. They're only about $35 from most T-Bird parts houses.

Gh0st_Preacher · 05-26-2008, 16:53

Thanks a ton, tbird100636. You rock!

Gh0st_Preacher · 06-09-2008, 12:42

Was able to spend some time with the car this weekend with a freind who's intimately more familiar with these than I am. Here's what we discovered:

The choke looks just needed adjusting from what I can tell (I need to check it out when it's not hot), all though that conflicts with what the mechanic said (more and more it looks like he was really screwing with me...). Also, while the fast idle linkage could probably use a lube, it's not even engaging like it should (the choke was set to be full-open always). That would explain the car dying under normal circumstances. If the fast idle never engages, the the engine doesn't heat up like it should, etc. Also, the choke heat tube (there's only one) wasn't sitting in the exhaust manifold like it should be...

From what I can see, it looks like the intake manifold and valve covers were removed at one point and cleaned, machined, etc., repainted, etc. All of the studs look like they're newer, including the ones for the carb. But I don't think anybody has ever done any real mantenance on the carb (it looks pretty grimey). So I think some of this stuff was done by some inexperienced guys.

Thanks for all of your help. I really do appreciate it!