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Hi pup, sounds like you know what your on about with painting etc so I was just wondering what you would recommend when it comes to buffers. How much are they usually and what should I look for features wise?
Im painting parts of my car in 2pak and because its done in the shed it gets a few specs of dust in it each time. I was told I can use 1500 to nib it back and then polish it but I can't be bothered. I just wanna use some cutting compound on a buff to get the dust out. Also what brand of cutting compound would you recommend for getting the dust out and also for finishing off (like removing swirls)?
Shit you fella's dont ask much. Its hard to give advice on buffs compounds etc. Ok sphell get a variable speed 9 inch angle grinder a cheapy is a makita second hand around 60-100 bucks the only downer is they are noisy. Get a good foam buff pad they are pretty much the same quality wise i use a GPI one cost me about $9 or buy a meguiars pad around $22 , as for compound for cutting out sanding marks etc i recommend either meguars heavy duty compound or 3m finess compound. Usually i will hand polish it with either meguars polish or wax, or Visions elite polish(good value at $18 a litre). I advise you to try buffing an old ****ed panel first coz its easy to cut thru paint if u r too heavy handed. As with paintwork its easier to spend the money on quality compounds and polishes rather than but crap the money u save cost u more in the long run. Carnuba wax is the go with banana oil for a long lasting deep shine. Good luck
Damien just another thought someone mentioned shooting gold pearl over the white. Not a bad idea but be carefull as too much pearl shot over the top turns the base colour a dirty yellow the same is true of all pearls shot over a base if too much is applied. Less is more and better when doing pearl over base, if you do that get the painter to do 3-4 test panel ranging on each panel i, then 2 then 3 then 4 coats of pearl over a white base then pick which you like best from subtle 1 coat to brick in face 4 coats. I always find that a subtle job is the way to go as it demands a 2nd look. Alterrnatively a flame job is timeless and classic, out of the last 10 harleys i have painted 7 have had flame jobs ranging from just visible to screaming look at me. At some point i will do a website with some examples of my work and various styles of paint and graphic work. Given a choice i will flame anything have airbrush will travel.
yeah if i go to the white ill have to get the shit taken all outta my car tho wont i. i didnt realise how much of a hassle this is all going to be, my brothers mate is a car painter and he specialieses in 2pak paint and he ows ma bro a few favours so il get the job by him, ill still give him money i aint getting no "favour" paint job coz itll be shite.
but if i stick with the same colour dont they have to take the engine out and all that sort of stuff?? would i bee able to go the same colour with a bit of a pearl or sumthing like that??
if you keep the quarts colour you can getaway with just doing the exterior and only strip the outside of the car. If you do the pearl thing you can either dose the base colour with additional pearl but make sure the painter notes how much extra goes in the mix. personally i would do that. **** pulling an engine out unless i have to.
Location: gold coast and off playing with 32psi of boost pumping into 4.1lt of pure ohc feralness and developing a 350hp n/a kit for ea-au i6, also making 5.0lt gear soon enuf
Posts: 1,043
pup:
damien28 will prob ask this question as well soon
i want to respray my car as well but in the standard metorite silver that it is now
all the dent work (thanks to kids and mums at shopping centers)
i can do thats not a prob but just wondering what needs to be done to repray over the original paint (same color but with gt stripes in gun metal grey)
do i scuff it back with a coarse grade paper and then put a coat of hi-fill and then rub it back smooth and then apply the base primer then spray on the silver base color then procede with the gt stripes and then the clear coats? thats sound alright?
cheers.joe.
__________________
live in S.E. queensland? bit of a revhead? click here!!--> speedphreaks
1000hp is underway. rods,pistons here!! t88 on its way!!
so if i go the same colour, i can just get them to strip the paint on the outside, and then re paint it, would i be able to get a pearl put thru the new paint just to give it a nice look.
how much about do u rekon it costs for a job like this.
the paint doesnt go over the top of the old paint tho does it and it wont come off and shit aye, itll just be like a normal paint job ut better :)
also what would i need to ask the painter for if this is the type of job im getting
i'll try and answer you both. depending on the old paint you can either paint over it or reprime the car or bare metal it. I recommend bare metalling the whole car only if you are dedicated as there are often old repairs under the car that will be damaged by the stripping process. so if your paint is in a reasonable condition a good rub down with 600 wet and dry should be fine, if you rub thru to metal spot prime it with a good primer. if the paint is rooted rub it back with 240 dry then 2 coats of a good 2pak primer rub it back with 600 throw your colour on. Often minor dents can be repaired without stripping a panel to metal and i do mean minor dents, rub it back with some 180 dry get some good 2pack knifing putty fill dent sand down with 240 dry spot prime the area.damien you can get the painter to modify the colour to your specs get him to do it in front of you and write down what changes are made to the formula so you have a future reference. if your painter uses good quality paint and prepares the area properly the paint shouldnt lift ever. As to cost how long is a piece of string, with minimum body repairs and a straight rub down and paint around 1200-1500 with repairs and repriming anywhere from 1800- 4000 depending on the extent. these are only rough figures remember without seeing the car or what is involved and it includes material costs. Hope this helps.
Location: gold coast and off playing with 32psi of boost pumping into 4.1lt of pure ohc feralness and developing a 350hp n/a kit for ea-au i6, also making 5.0lt gear soon enuf
Posts: 1,043
ok well cheers for that pup
but what is involved in stripping the car back to bare metal??
i have seen and heard about use a chemical paint stripper but i dont think the neighbors would be happy about all the fumes.
cheers.joe.
__________________
live in S.E. queensland? bit of a revhead? click here!!--> speedphreaks
1000hp is underway. rods,pistons here!! t88 on its way!!