Hey, im just tryin to find out about the Eseries problem of blowing head gaskets which i have heard so much about. I just bought an early E-series for cheap due to a blown (you guessed it) head gasket. So ive almost finished bolting it all back together, i just wanna know how to fix this problem so it dont happen in teh future. Ive fitted a copper head gasket for added strength, anything else?
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Hey, im just tryin to find out about the Eseries problem of blowing head gaskets which i have heard so much about. I just bought an early E-series for cheap due to a blown (you guessed it) head gasket. So ive almost finished bolting it all back together, i just wanna know how to fix this problem so it dont happen in teh future. Ive fitted a copper head gasket for added strength, anything else?
Use decent coolant at a 50/50 ratio with water and change it around every 12 months, oh and don't let the engine overheat.
I reackon what kills E-Series heads despite all the big conspiracy theories such as poor water channel design(well they are big cos it's a big motor), stretching bolts and all that crap, after seeing many a E-Series head the real reason as far as I'm concerned is corrosion.
Ford must have went cheap with the alloy they choose for the E-Series head. For example I recently saw a alloy head pulled off a RB30 motor(1987 VL) and it had very very little corrosion of the the water ports. Whereas on a E-Series every head I have pulled off has corrosion on the water ports to some degree, especially at the entrance.
Which leads me to the conclusion the alloy in the E-Series head is kinda sht, and corrodes very easily whereas other alloy heads on other cars use a decent quality alloy that doesn't corrode nearly as much.
So with the E-Series make sure you treat your cooling system like it's the lifeblood of your car. Good quality coolant mixed at home with 50/50 ratio with distilled water, radiator is not blocked and possibly a new thermostat if it's old, and the head gasket should last 10 years.
Oh yeah and I hope you shaved the head so the contact surface is flat and you used new AU bolts, otherwise it won't have a very good seal.
No point in getting the head shaved if the hardness test fails on the head. You MUST get a Brinall Hardness Test done, otherwise the head will fail. What happens is the quality of the molecular structure changes when this particular type of alloy overheats. Generally, head machining places can do this.
No point in getting the head shaved if the hardness test fails on the head. You MUST get a Brinall Hardness Test done, otherwise the head will fail. What happens is the quality of the molecular structure changes when this particular type of alloy overheats. Generally, head machining places can do this.
Yes i'll keep this inmind.Thanx mate your the best.WTF!!!!
Hey, im just tryin to find out about the Eseries problem of blowing head gaskets which i have heard so much about. I just bought an early E-series for cheap due to a blown (you guessed it) head gasket. So ive almost finished bolting it all back together, i just wanna know how to fix this problem so it dont happen in teh future. Ive fitted a copper head gasket for added strength, anything else?
If you have head gasket problems its caused by a very simple thing , to much heat , the gsk failure will normally be found as a consequence of the radiator failing to remove heat so thats the first thing to replace if there is any doubt at all about more than normal operating temps( $180 for red devil trade) . Ive NEVER had a head gsk go in normal use in an e series , but when building the motor I replace with a quality head gsk and new head bolts EVERY time its stripped ( why try to save $30.00 when it will kill your motor) .
The heads are a long casting so good cooling is vital and so is the best anti corrosive you can afford , take care with belts and be sure you have a good water pump checking the vital fliuds every few days until integraty is certain then keep it up , when replaceing a heag gst have the head checked and if needed skimmed for flatness and no twists , its cheap insurance and the most I have spent was a valve job skim and a couple of valves with heat soaking and some tig work to remove a twist , I couldnt see it but it was about .2 of a mil which is bugga all and was good value at under $250.00 trade. Take your time and the motor will go forever
good luck
I have seen a few EA-EL's coming thru my workshop with an extra bypass hose on the cooling system. It goes from the original bypass hose (with a T piece near the thermostat housing) to the rear of the head, with a fitting tapped into the head just behind number 6 spark plug. I assume it's there to help keep the rear of the head cooler. Anyone else seen this mod??
I have seen a few EA-EL's coming thru my workshop with an extra bypass hose on the cooling system. It goes from the original bypass hose (with a T piece near the thermostat housing) to the rear of the head, with a fitting tapped into the head just behind number 6 spark plug. I assume it's there to help keep the rear of the head cooler. Anyone else seen this mod??
G'day,
yes i have. Not sure if it helps though. Seen one or two with head gasket problems as well.
Interestingly, all the E series i have seen wih a gasket problem had all blown around #1.....shrugg
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