InitialD

Do any of you guys with EA-ED's have the same probs?

Car has a 85amp Ghia Alternator with a BRAND NEW regulator

Basicly, When you have HEADLIGHTS, BRAKES on at night, the voltage drops to around 13v, the Alternator was recently reco'd (last yr or so), and i just put a new alternator in. Also it only charges at 14.2v instead of 14.8 like its suppose to. It Does however charge at 14.8v when you first start the car when its cold, but after about 3mins it goes back to 14.2v

Now the Car idles at 600rpm at idle in Drive, but if i slightly rev it to 700rpm it charges at 14v. So, I ajusted the idle speed to 700rpm, but now i have to rev it to 800rpm

Also if i slow down quickly when driving at night, it holds at 14v for a couple of seconds before dropping to 13v (13.2 to be exact). Ive put a New battery, new Terminals, Redone all the fusable links, Cleaned all Earth Connections, New Alternator belt thats DAMN tight, Any thoughts? Its got me Stumped

(Sorry about length)

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1991 Ford Falcon EA 30th Anniversary

Sundeep

Maybe you need a new alternator, lucky for you I have one sitting in my garage Only 2 years old and working like new...$30 and it's yours :o)

Do you still want that block??

Sundeep

InitialD

LOL Sunny's Super Cheap Ford Parts Emporium!

The Current alternator is the 3rd one (previous 2 were 70amp) and they both did the same thing. The 85amp (current) i found at pickapart and according to sticker on it was reco'd a couple of yrs ago. So im stumped

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1991 Ford Falcon EA 30th Anniversary

rawlinna

Where are you measuring the voltage and what with?
EG: Standard dash gauge or multi meter across the battery?

When you cleaned all the connections did you clean the earth cable from the trans housing to the floor under the passenger side footwell area?

InitialD

Ok Standard Dash Gauge and also with a Multimeter at the Battery

I unbolted the Trans Earth Lead and cleaned it plus the connection spots where it bolts to

Also, My car does not have a ISC (Idle Speed Controller) or is it called Throttle control actuator? The Cylinder thing that sits directly under the throttle, also my car has one TPS, but on the diagram on Ford-tech.com on CFI it shows 2 TPS's, as also seen in some peoples cars, is the 2nd TPS for the 4 Speed??

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1991 Ford Falcon EA 30th Anniversary

!Gn|T|0n

Firstly, don’t trust your dash-board voltmeter. I’ll assume that you’ve taken these measurements at the battery terminals. Have you ever observed an 85 Ampere alternator behave differently? Depending on what other loads you have on the electrical system at the time it can be normal to observe a voltage drop. This may be why you’re observing this behaviour with multiple replacement units of the same spec. I’d also consider your battery. It may be drawing more current than it should. Is it nice and charged? How long since you put it in? (you mentioned it was “new”).

Actually 14.2 is closer to what an automotive lead-acid battery will be happy with. Trying to charge the batter with a higher voltage will lower the electrolyte level over time.

With respect to your temperature variations, I really don’t think you’ve got a problem. Battery chemistry is temperature dependant. Some alternators apparently even have temperature feedback to vary the output depending on operating temperature.

The regulator in the alternator uses two resistors which act as a voltage divider (provides a certain percentage of the battery voltage) as a reference point below which the regulator will apply voltage to the field winding and increase output. If one of these resistors become more susceptible to temperature than the other (the ratio of the two determine the voltage divider output) the reference point will shift and so will your alternator output. You’ve got a new regulator however. I can’t help but think your symptoms are normal from what you’ve described.

Not quite following here. Leave the idle, you’re chasing your tail I think.

You need to explain this a little better. Does it only briefly drop to 13.2V? This may be because engine revs have dropped rapidly to idle slowing the alternator faster than the regulator can react (there are capacitive elements internally which introduce time delays in reaction). Does it come back up to what it normally produces once you sit at idle for a few more seconds? If it does I wouldn’t worry about it.

Basically you’d be hard pressed to design an alternator which produces a constant unvaried 14.2 volts at all temperatures and speeds and conditions. You’ll get variations due to all sorts of changing parameters. You’ve replaced enough things to either accept that your charging system is working as well as it was designed to or start looking for excessive loads on your charging system.

I hope I’ve helped.

Dellboy999

You will have ISC will look different to the MPFI one (and MPFI sits on top), the 2nd TPS is for the 4 speed auto.

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InitialD

Dellboy - I dont have an ISC at all since the car is Straight LPG all the Fuel injection stuff was removed long before i got the car, Does this ISC have anything todo with the idle? would it be worth me putting one on the car? But cause im Straight LPG would the computer have any idea what todo with it? since the computer isnt connected to the LPG setup

!Gn|T|0n - When im at idle with headlight and brake it drops RAPIDLY to 13.2, if i stall it up to 700rpm, it goes back to 14.1v Getting my drift? But if i ajust the car to idle at 700rpm it still only charges at 13.2v and i have to stall it up to 800rpm to get it to go back to 14.1v?

Now when i said
Occasionally, i will slow down quickly at the lights, at it will hold charge according to the dash at 14v for about 3 seconds then slowly go back down to 13.2 but doesnt return up. I guessed it was the Regulator so i purchased a brand new one but it still does it
The battery is about a month new and is fully charged
The measurements have been taken at the battery. In regards to have i seen a 85ampere do the same thing? Ive been told by a Auto elec that they dont normally do that. And I doubt ford built these cars inmind that the owner/driver must turn all the accessories off at idle. Basicly I when it drops down, ive ONLY got on HEADLIGHTS and my Foot on the brake, God help me when i up the indicators on, it drops lower, and if i have the stereo or heater on It drops down to around 12.5, so i have to keep stalling it up

Do any other EA-ED owners out there have to do this? cause none of my previous cars have done this what so ever.

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1991 Ford Falcon EA 30th Anniversary

!Gn|T|0n

I suggest that you hook an ammeter in line with the alternator output and read what current you're pulling. Replacing the entire alternator also eliminates rectifier diodes so the next step is to question the load that your HEADLIGHTS are creating. Looking at your list of replacements… we’re grasping at straws here!

Also with regards to “an auto electrician told me”… I’d get more opinions. He / she didn’t happen to offer any other suggestions? I know that the "dash-meter" in OED666's ED dips when the headlights are turned on.

InitialD

He recommended that i change the Regulator since ive been over the rest of the system.
Ill try tonight to check the output on the alternator and hopefully this will tell me if its the alternator or something else :(

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1991 Ford Falcon EA 30th Anniversary