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Old 01-30-2006, 18:26   #1 (permalink)
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emission check valve 1985 bronco EFI

So i found the problem with my cross over tube the check valve is broken. I found the part, and now i am trying to get the valve off the cross over tube that is behind the motor words of wisdom thanks rich
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Old 01-31-2006, 11:13   #2 (permalink)
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Re: emission check valve 1985 bronco EFI

Quote:
Originally Posted by docsmith5
So i found the problem with my cross over tube the check valve is broken. I found the part, and now i am trying to get the valve off the cross over tube that is behind the motor words of wisdom thanks rich
yo again!
another hard to see, let alone touch item!
Use PB Blaster (Pep BoyZZZ..Autozone, etc.)and spray it a few times; run engine, spray again, etc.
From a manual:
"COMPONENT REPLACEMENT
Air By-Pass Valve
Label and disconnect the air and vacuum hoses at the air by-pass valve body.
Once the valve is disconnected from all hoses and retainers, remove it from the engine compartment.
To install, position the air by-pass valve and connect the respective hoses.
Connect any retainers disconnected during removal.
Check Valve
Disconnect the air supply hose at the valve. Use a 1 1⁄4 inch crowfoot wrench. The valve has a standard, right hand pipe thread.
Clean the threads on the air manifold adapter (air supply tube on the V8 engines) with a wire brush. Do not blow compressed air through the check valve in either direction.
Install the check valve and tighten.
Connect the air supply hose.
Air Manifold
Disconnect the air supply hose at the check valve, position the hose out of the way and remove the valve.
Loosen all of the air manifold-to-cylinder head tube coupling nuts (compression fittings). Inspect the air manifold for damaged threads and fittings and for leaking connections. Repair or replace as required. Clean the manifold and associated parts with kerosene. Do not dry the parts with compressed air.
Position the air manifold on the cylinder head. Be sure that all of the tube coupling nuts are aligned with the cylinder head.
Screw each coupling nut into the cylinder head, one or two threads. Tighten the tube coupling nuts.
Install the check valve and tighten it.
Connect the air supply hose to the check valve.
Air Supply Tube
V8 ENGINE ONLY
Disconnect the air supply hose at the check valve and position the hose out of the way.
Remove the check valve.
Remove the air supply tube bolt and seal washer.
Carefully remove the air supply tube and seal washer from the cylinder head. Inspect the air supply tube for evidence of leaking threads or seal surfaces. Examine the attaching bolt head, seal washers, and supply tube surface for leaks. Inspect the attaching bolt and cylinder head threads for damage. Clean the air supply tube, seal washers, and bolt with kerosene. Do not dry the parts with compressed air.
Install the seal washer and air supply tube on the cylinder head. Be sure that it is positioned in the same manner as before removal.
Install the seal washer and mounting bolt. Tighten the bolt.
Install the check valve and tighten it.
Connect the air supply hose to the check valve. "
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Old 01-31-2006, 14:27   #3 (permalink)
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Re: emission check valve 1985 bronco EFI

Hey man great info, so back to 1st prblem if you recall I found this because i was trying to repair a vapor lock problem. do you think this repair will inprove my proformance? Maybe better gas milage? Thanks again Al rich
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Old 02-02-2006, 09:34   #4 (permalink)
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Re: emission check valve 1985 bronco EFI

yo Rick!
Sorry, can not recall details or find your original post here; mods must have moved it.
Give details again please. Are you sure it is vapor lock?
As for the tube/ck valve; only possibility and it is a long-shot is if the ck valve was totally shot & HOT exhaust was back-flowing near fuel line(s), etc.
later,
Al

edit; ok, found the post;
assume it is Not overheating, so....
and no pre-ignition Ping?
will start w/EZiest & CHEAPEST cks first:
so, while it's cranking, ck voltage across the battery terminals; should be ~12 volts or slightly below. if it's lower then the:
battery is weak/bad
batty, starter, ground(S) cable ends are corroded (gets worse when hotter)
distributor cap needs a ck esp inside
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