i been getting told that by workmates/family/friends that getting the exhaust system is just a waste of time and money for "half a kilowatt gain and a bigger sound" my workmate said i should just remove the muffler and think of all the loud sound and extra fuel you will use.
can someone give me a few figures on what expected rwkw gains can be had, dyno graphs before and after your exhaust system would also help
thanks
-James
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
Sorry i have no evidence to provide but rest assured the exhuast is one of the best 'bang for buck' modifications you can do.
OK, so no evidence but a rough idea - my car is good for about 105rwkw in stock form. It was dynoe'd with a cat-back (note - no extractors) and got 115rwkw. This was some time ago, getting a bit more outta the ol' girl now
A good exhaust with extractors should release AT LEAST 10kw from the engine. The sound is just an added bonus.
Fuel consumption should be better when cruising. But of course you wanna hear that growl so economy-style driving goes out the window, lol. How's your self control?
__________________ 1995 EF Futura: 4.9L V8 w/ Powerdyne Supercharger @ 7-8psi. Water Injection @ 3psi and above. Vortech Rising Rate FMU. 73mm C&L MAF. Shift Kit, VSS override, TCC override. Blue dash. Custom blue courtesy lights. Switched A/F meter, boost/vac and oil psi gauges. 6.5" TV, CarPC w/1500+ MP3, DVD and porn, precious porn
my self control is great at times
its NC fairlane, i think im gunna put this in my sig so i get no more questions hahaha.
i think im going to go for tri-y opposed to 4-1, i been told they are generally better all round.
still no dyno graphs so i can see what the torque change is like.
what would i be looking at for a decent full exhaust system? i've been hearing good things about pacemaker so thats probably what i'll get but i cant find a website for them, do they have one or are they just a brand that others distribute?
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
On a 5L you will get 10 to 15 RWKW with tri-ys and a twin 2 1/4 system. The best system ive seen is the Liverpool exhaust centre setup, they were made for 5L motors and work very well.They make the hole thing in house, I think there about $1600 fitted, or you can get them to send it in kit form and fit it your self. Hope this helps.....
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TS50 no-125
TE50 no-94
"The TE50 is the best high performance sedan Australia has ever produced"
Street machine Feb 2002
TE50T3 Remember the GTHO? well your getting close.
Motor mag Jan 2002
Wouldn't you love to say that about your car?You loosers
I got 14rwkw with my exhaust/extractor upgrade ages ago, I will try to dig up the dyno graphs and post them, but basically you will loose a tiny bit of low down torque but get that back plus a lot more from about 2500rpm onwards. A good cheap system would be pacemaker tri-y's and a redback or similar 2 1/2" system. Single 2 1/2" have been shown to give the best overall performance while being half the cost of a twin setup. Expect to pay about $500 for extractors and around $300 for a mild steel 2 1/2" system then add a couple of hundred for fitting.
if those are the good 'cheap' systems what are some of the dearer ones and are they worth it?
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
With the expensive systems you are generally paying for stainless steal piping which does last 10+ years while mild steel will last about 5 years and the labour to make and fit the systems. Because most of the expensive systems are custom made, you also have choice in mufflers etc. The cheaper redback, lukey etc systems are mass produced so the work out cheaper. I have had an off the shelf Lukey 3" system on my car for a few years now and think they are great, especially considering the price.
hmmm, i dont know what i want now so many choices and decision to be made, all i know is i dont want any torque or power loss at any stage of rpm especially from idle - 4000 but if that cant be helped, ah well
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'92 NC Ghia, 302w 123.9kw at the wheels, dead stock. Peacock Green. Lots of woodgrain and velour
Tint, Mags (17x8 ROH RT's 235/45), Sunroof, Alarm/Immobliser, GM-X624 Amp, DEH-P8250 H/U, Alpine 2x6 1/4" rear, 6"splits in doors, 1" tweeters in dash.
"You have the right to remain silent. Anything you say will be misquoted, then used against you."
hmmm, i dont know what i want now so many choices and decision to be made, all i know is i dont want any torque or power loss at any stage of rpm especially from idle - 4000 but if that cant be helped, ah well
Low down torque loss is not really an issue because the loss is only small and the engine willl be able to rev so much easier. All you will notice is the extra power available. To minimise any torque loss stick with tri-y extractors and a 2 1/2" or twin 2 1/4" exhaust system.
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