many thanx for that will have a go btw it now only works on top speed which
previously to the problem didnt work at all...??
also has bad stalling problems which i think i have traced down to a mass
air flow sensor problem..might be time to trade it in. but once again cheers
"Alan" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
> In message <nc6cndTK9s2eAznfSa8jmA@karoo.co.uk>, Billy Who?
> <email@example.com> wrote
>>where do i begin to check it? it was squeaking a couple of days before
>>mind, but where is it? how do you get at it to look? any links appreciated
>>or info as how to..
> UK Focus circuit at:
> If the blower doesn't work at any setting
> i) Check the fuse
> ii) It is not unknown for the switch to mechanically fail
> Fuse for the blower motor is in the fuse box in the engine compartment.
> If the blower works at the fastest setting but not the lower three setting
> then the most likely cause is a blown thermal fuse. If you have some
> experience with a soldering iron there is a cheap Do it Yourself fix for
> this problem.
> In a UK Focus to remove the blower motor switch:
> Disconnect the battery (for safety reasons)
> Remove the radio/cassette. If you disconnect the battery or radio make
> sure that you have the 4 digit security code (and instructions) that you
> need to enter to make the radio work again.
> Undo the four securing screws from inside the radio/cassette player
> aperture, then carefully unclip the heater control panel from its three
> retaining clips in the fascia.
> Disconnect the wiring connector from the switches as the control panel is
> being removed.
> To get at the blower motor or to fix the thermal fuse: (re-post of a
> previous reply in this newsgroup)
> Note: The thermal fuse is different to those fitted in the fuse boxes.
> The speed of the fan in the first three positions is controlled by a bank
> of resistors which are relatively large and get hot. The thermal fuse is
> in series with these resistors and physically almost touching them. When
> the fuse blows the first three position don't work. In the final switch
> position the battery voltage goes straight across the motor, bypassing
> resistors and thermal fuse network, hence it works.
> The resistor and fuse assembly is usually mounted in the blower motor air
> stream and I believe that you can get to the resistor assembly by removing
> the blower motor in the Focus. Release the glove box by flexing the
> plastic sides (a _tiny_ bit of force may be required). The glove box then
> hangs out of the way and you can see the blower motor and fixings.
> The fuse is a two legged device which when it reaches a preset temperature
> blows permanently open circuit.
> I would assume that the way the module is constructed that the fuse alone
> isn't a replaceable part and that a dealer would charge for the whole
> module. However it is a do-it-yourself fix if you can find the motor
> 'resistor module' and have some basic electrical soldering capabilities.
> In the UK the a replacement thermal fuse (for the do-it-yourself repair)
> can be obtained quite cheaply (0.5 GPB or less than $1 US) from electronic
> component stores.
> I've included the references to the devices plus a circuit of the blower
> motor circuit on
> < http://www.amacleod.clara.co.uk/focus/index.htm>
> When buying the replacement fuses the one you want is probably towards the
> higher end of the temperature range (150+ degrees C).
> Before replacing the thermal fuse check it with a meter to see if it open
> circuit or temporality short across it to see if the motor works on the
> lower speed settings.
> Despite the warnings about not to solder to the leads of a thermal fuse
> I've successfully used a high wattage soldering gun and _quickly_ soldered
> at the ends of the leads. Obviously as it is a one time thermal fuse
> leaving the soldering iron in contact too long will heat up the whole
> device to a temperature where the fuse blows. As they are cheap it may be
> worth ordering a couple - just in case :) You could attach a crocodile
> clip or bulldog clip as a heat-sink to the body of the fuse while
> soldering to reduce the heat build-up.
> Cut out the old thermal fuse but leave about quarter of an inch of the
> lead on each side that is crimped to the terminals on the assembly.
> Leaving a bit of the old lead in place will make soldering the new
> component easier. Soldering to the terminal post is difficult unless you
> can clean it up with a small file.
> The problem may have been caused as a result of water getting into the
> system and the blower motor not running as smoothly as it should. On
> previous cars where I have fixed identical problems the motor shafts were
> rusty and some lubrication (ONE DROP of engine oil from the dip-stick) was
> applied to the motor shaft bearing area.
> Before attempting this repair check out the newsgroup archives at
> Type 'thermal fuse blower motor' into the search box (without the
> quotation marks).
> The advice given for other cars is valid.