Missin'Hippie_Bin_Laden

Ok, the car died overnight. So I thought immeidatly it was the fuel
pump. After listening to it, I can hear the pump running in the tank.

I am aware of the class action lawsuite V. FoMoCo in 2002 for the
defective Ignition Module that would fail at temp. However my problem
is asymptomatic with this problem, as the car did not die hot, and will
not start cold.

If i can not find a suggestion here I will endup buying a new distro w/
ignition module attached. (about $118 from Advanced)
however I think I could use some Ideas, because I dont seem to have any
juce coming from the coil to the (top of) the distro. anyhow.

so far

I changed the fuel filter, (after depressurizing the system) and there
was a slight trickle of fuel from the gasline to the filter.
After repalcing the filter I followed the repressureization <SP>
routine. Nothing.
I pulled a spark plug, and it had ashy white buildup. I replaced the
plugs, and wires. Nothing
The cap was badly worn, so i replaced the rotor and cap. Nothing.
Then I checked to see if the timing had gone, I bumped the starter
untill the distro. rotor pointed at the #1 plug wire, and slid a
screwdriver in to tap on the top of the piston. Then I bumped the
starter to spin the rotor around 180 degrees and slid the screwdriver
back in and it went to the handle, so I feel the timing is ok.
I replaced the Coil (cleaned the bracket and where it mounts to the
block to ensure grounding)

as I said, Its getting gas, you can smell it when you try to turn the
car over.
no spark to plugs, no spark from coil.
I dont want to spend another $100 dollars, if it is somthing small that
I am overlooking, its happened before.
TIA

_X_

Backyard Mechanic

"Missin'Hippie_Bin_Laden" <neonano@netzero.com> wrote in
news:1126628470.262493.312900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com:

> Ok, the car died overnight. So I thought immeidatly it was the fuel
> pump. After listening to it, I can hear the pump running in the tank.
>
> I am aware of the class action lawsuite V. FoMoCo in 2002 for the
> defective Ignition Module that would fail at temp. However my problem
> is asymptomatic with this problem, as the car did not die hot, and will
> not start cold.
>
> If i can not find a suggestion here I will endup buying a new distro w/
> ignition module attached. (about $118 from Advanced)
> however I think I could use some Ideas, because I dont seem to have any
> juce coming from the coil to the (top of) the distro. anyhow.
>

They DO NOT usually die hot! Not what I think you mean anyway... on the
road or in traffic.
They USUALLY die in the driveway or parking spot.

That is, the heat sink lube dries out, you bring the engine to temp...
drive it, park it and next time you try to start, nothing happens.

get the 5 dollar tool and take the TFI off, you will find the coating all
caky and hardening.. it's supposed to be greasy.

And AT THE LEAST get a 12v test lite!

Why would you buy a complete dist anyway..

And what is an "OSC"? If you mean HSC or OHC those are two different
engines.. not that it matters here.

Happy Traveler

As BM suggested get a 12V test light (probably about $2-$3). It will help
you determine what's wrong before throwing $118 on a new distributor. The
coil primary (low voltage side) should have two wires. One (typically red)
goes to the ignition switch. Make sure that power gets to it in both 'Start'
and 'Run'. If there is no power there, you have a defective switch or a
wiring problem. Assuming everything is good so far, probe the other wire,
while someone is cranking the engine for you. If the light is flashing, the
ignition module is fine. If that's the case and there is no spark, the
problem is on the high voltage side (coil secondary, distributor, or the
wire between them). If the light is not flashing but steady on, the ignition
module is probably the culprit (though it could also be the pickup inside
the distributor). If no light at all on that side, unplug that wire, turn
ignition to 'Run' and touch the coil terminal where that wire goes. If the
light still won't turn on (and the red side has power), the coil primary
winding is burned (Your coil primary may have a single connector with two
contacts. If so you may need to unplug it and jumper the red side with a
piece of insulated wire for this test. Jumpering it to the battery + will
also work).


"Missin'Hippie_Bin_Laden" <neonano@netzero.com> wrote in message
news:1126628470.262493.312900@g43g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> If i can not find a suggestion here I will endup buying a new distro w/
> ignition module attached. (about $118 from Advanced)

Jim Warman

Turning the distributor rotor 180 degrees is the same as giving the
crankshaft one full rotation..... With the rotor pointing at the #1 cap
contact, #1 will be at TDC on compression..... turning the motor so that the
rotor is pointing exactly away from #1 should have the piston at TDC on
overlap....

Missin'Hippie_Bin_Laden

I am definatly getting a spark now. After replacing the @#$@# Ignition
Module ($80)
but the timing must not be quite right now. Thanks for the help
pholks!