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"Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:YdGdneaq3YuqgaTfRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> Cory Dunkle wrote:
>> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:_6CdnfYPCZ0Dj6TfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
>>
>>>Cory Dunkle wrote:
>>>
>>>>"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>>news:4bCdnftdFbc4nqTfRVn-ug@comcast.com...
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>"Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
>>>>>news:3pWdneKOv6YlQaXfRVn-oQ@comcast.com...
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> Cory,
>>>>>> Get your heads redone and\or (at least) install a new cam and lifters
>>>>>
>>>>>already.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> There are lots of hypothetical failure scenarios, but....YOUR LIFTERS
>>>>>
>>>>>ARE WORN OUT.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>> I appreciate your love of your 67-68 Fords (My first car was a 68
>>>>>>XL\GT)(428\2x4\4-speed :)), but when all is said and done, they wear
>>
>> out
>>
>>>>>after 37
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>years. No amount of throwing used parts at them will fix the problem.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Listen to Pick One instead of arguing with him, you might learn
>>>>>
>>>>>something.
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>>>Tom
>>>>>
>>>>>Lifters are 1 year old and have 18,000 miles on them. I was not aware a
>>>>
>>>>cam
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>and lifters only last 18,000 miles. The heads have less than 25,000
>>
>> miles
>>
>>>>on
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>them. I was not aware heads only last 25,000 miles. If you read my posts
>>>>
>>>>in
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>>this thread you would know that this is a low mileage motor that has
>>
>> been
>>
>>>>>cared for and not abused.
>>>>>
>>>>> Cory
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>Sorry for being snide in my reply. I was grouchy about something from my
>>
>> day
>>
>>>>today when I posted that. For wahtever reason you didn't read the part
>>
>> where
>>
>>>>I metnioned the mileage on the motor. No biggie. The motor has low miles
>>
>> on
>>
>>>>it and has been broken in properly and treated right, so it should not
>>
>> be
>>
>>>>having any bad lifters or anything like that so soon in it's life. I
>>
>> would
>>
>>>>expect at least 100,000 miles out of this motor without any major
>>
>> failures,
>>
>>>>probably double that though.
>>>>
>>>>I don't understand how a lifter would make the noise that the engine is
>>>>aming, and if it is the lifter, why does the noise go away when the
>>
>> engine
>>
>>>>is running and I push on the side of the valve spring? I also have taken
>>
>> the
>>
>>>>lifter apart and cleaned and inspected it. I soaked it in cleaner and
>>
>> didn't
>>
>>>>see anything wrong with it (no abnormal wear, everything appeared
>>
>> alright),
>>
>>>>so I put it back in. Before I go pulling the engine apart to get to the
>>>>lifter and then taking the lifter apart again and possibly replacing it
>>
>> I'd
>>
>>>>like to know how or why a lifter might make that noise and what about
>>>>pushing on the side of the valve spring might make the noise stop. I
>>
>> just
>>
>>>>don't wanna know why I'm gonna do something before I do it.
>>>>
>>>> Cory
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>> Cory,
>>> As I understand it, there has been a quality control problem with
>>
>> aftermarket
>>
>>>lifters for the last 2-3 years.
>>> I don't now the specifics, but I know a number of rebuilders who have
>>
>> commented on
>>
>>>the fact. Maybe someone else here knows what I'm speaking of? Anyone?
>>> Sorry Cory, last I heard you we're still cobbling on your old 289\302s.
>>
>> I thought
>>
>>>this was a problem with one of those high mileage motors.
>>> BTW, I just picked up a 68 Custom with a 351\3 on the tree. It's roached
>>
>> but the
>>
>>>driveline is OK. Need parts?
>>>
>>>Tom
>>
>>
>> I would love the transmission and clutch setup out of that car (maybe the
>> steering column and shifter too)! Heck, I've been wanting a bigger motor. I
>> was thinking of trying a cheap 460 build if the right motor came along. Was
>> hoping I could find something I could get away with a quick re-ring and new
>> bearings, and put a C6 behind it, but maybe a 351W would work well enough
>> (is that 351 an FE or Windsor?). If you seriously wanna part it out I may be
>> interested in the clutch pedal setup, possibly more in you're close enough
>> (I'm in NJ).
>>
>> Anyhow, I kind hate to take the intake off but for the price of a lifter and
>> an intake manifold gasket it may be worth it even if only to eliminate the
>> lifter as a problem for sure.
>>
>> Cory
>>
>>
>
> Cory,
> The 351 in this car was a Cleveland (I was mistaken, it's a 69). We bought it
> for the motor. The 3 speed trans is ok but the column is worn out. (Cheap
> floor shifter).
> Contact me off the group newton5@at. comcast.net You can figure that out,
> no?
> I might be able to hook you up with Ford parts.
> Tom
How so? The Cleveland did not see production till 1970.
cory, you have to remember from years past when you were playing with the 68
galaxie,there are a lot of assholes on these newsgroups. just ignore them,
because as long as you respond/argue with them, they will stay here as they
are acheiving their goal, making life miserable for us by taking up space.
there is one perticulary ignorant one from canada that uses around 10
different names, but always signs off with a varient of hurc ast. if the
0zero plus 1/4 turn did not quiet it, then it is not a lifter, or the cam.i
think you are correct with your diagnosis of a problem in the guide, or a
bad seat/valve. either way it sounds like the head needs to come off. if you
are gonna pull 1, you might want to get both of them freshened up ,this way
you will not have to second guess if you did it rite later on down the road.
"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:JPadncsCaJn2WKXfRVn-gg@comcast.com...
> "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> news:s9SdnedyuJWEH6XfRVn-gA@comcast.com...
> >
> > "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> > news:C5Odnfu9xOE606XfRVn-rA@comcast.com...
> > >I remember now why I stopped reading and posting to this group. Too
many
> > > smart-asses like you being rude. I think it's clear I've done a little
> more
> > > than just sit there tightening down on the rocker (can't tighten a
> lifter,
> > > except perhaps with a different spring, smart-ass).
> > >
> >
> > You can over tighten a lifter till the internal spring is collapsed, now
> it's a
> > solid lifter. Once a lifter is adjusted it should never need adjusting.
>
> Never say never... After 200,000 miles there may be enough wear to need a
> little adjusting (a common problem with late model 302s with high mileage,
> slight tick in the valvetrain as the rocker arms are the positive stop
type
> and therefore not adjsutable). There is also the fact that the lock nuts
> used on these heads _will_ loosen over time. It's a fact and unavoidable.
> Using polylocks will prevent rockers backing off, or using two lock nuts
> (instead of one) will help. I've never heard of an engine that does not
need
> the rockers adjusted periodically. 200,000 miles and I imagine any engine
> will make a little rocker noise unless adjusted. You do mention lfiters
> needing adjustment though (which lifters can not be adjusted, to my
> knowledge), so maybe you are referring to something else. I am assuming
you
> are referring to adjusting the rocker arms.
>
> > > In any case, while measuring the travel may be worthwhile, I don't
> > > understand how that may cause a ticking/tapping that would stop when
> > > applying pressure on the side of the valve. If the cam lobe were worn
> that
> > > should only result in less valve lift. Adjusting the rocker properly
> should
> > > ensure there is no noise as there is no slack anywhere from camshaft
to
> > > valve. So, if you don't mind, I'm curious as to how a slightly worn
cam
> lobe
> > > would make the rather loud noise my engien is making.
> > >
> > In side your type of lifter is a plunger held up by a spring. There are
> two oil
> > passage ways. there is also a check valve. The job of the lifter is to
> provide
> > oil supply to the rocker through the lifter, that is done with the
> plunger. This
> > is what happens. When the lifter is on the base of the cam lobe ( valve
> closed )
> > the oil passage on the side ( notice the hole is also in a grove ) of
the
> lifter
> > is feed with oil from the oil pump ( the lifter is also a valve of
> sorts ). This
> > fills the space beneath the plunger. As the cam rotates and pushes the
> lifter up
> > it's bore the hole in the side of the lifter moves up ( duh ). Now the
> lifter
> > acts as a valve, the hole and grove is past the feed hole in the block,
so
> the
> > oil passage is closed. The space beneath the plunger is now full. As the
> lifter
> > continues up it tries to push against the push rod which at this point
the
> oil
> > pressure in the lifter combined with the spring over comes the pressure
of
> the
> > valve spring. As the lifter gets towards the top of its travel the valve
> spring
> > is near it's fully compressed state, because of this spring pressure of
> the
> > valve over comes the oil pressure and spring pressure in the space below
> the
> > plunger moving the plunger down into the lifter. The oil pressure in
side
> the
> > lifter raises up enough to open the check valve and that small amount of
> oil is
> > now forced into the push rod. As the cam rotates to the down slope of
the
> lobe
> > the spring pressure from the valve pushes the lifter down into its bore.
> As the
> > valve closes the spring pressure becomes less than the spring pressure
in
> side
> > the lifter, so now the plunger moves up in it's bore. Then the cycle
> starts over
> > again. Eventually the push rod gets full so any extra oil gets pushed
out
> lubing
> > the rest of the valve train. That is why lifters always tick for a while
> when
> > new ones are installed and why there is always a delay for oil squirting
> out the
> > top of the push rod. That being said you can see why just tightening the
> valve
> > does nothing but cause more problems. You run the risk of collapsing the
> lifter,
> > that will starve the rest of the valve train of oil.
>
> I have taken the lifter apart, cleaned and inspected it. It appears to be
in
> good condition. Regardless, your explanation of how a hydraulic lifter
works
> does not explain how a worn cam lobe will cause excess noise.
>
> > > For what it's worth the motor only has 18,000 miles on it and was
> properly
> > > broken in, and looking down the head all rockers appear to have the
same
> > > travel (I know that doesn't necessarily mean much, but I've seen
engines
> > > with wiped cam lobes and it was obvious to me that those particular
> valves
> > > were not opening as far as the others).
> > >
> >
> > It only takes a few thousands to make lifter noise. Didnt you recently
say
> you
> > over heated this engine by running it with no coolant? Thats all it
takes
> to
> > destroy a lifter.
>
> No, that was a 289 I had a good while ago (this engine is a 302). This
> engine has been treated properly it's entire life. It is a year old and
has
> 18,000 miles on it. The heads were used for a few thousand miles on a
> different engine and have not been 'abused' or neglected.
>
> At this point I'm thinking it's eitehr the valve spring/damper, or the
valve
> guide. I don't see what else it could be that is causing this noise.
>
> Cory
>
> > > Cory
> > >
> > > "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> > > news:CNCdnSadv78ON6rfRVn-sA@comcast.com...
> > >>
> > >> Instead of constantly just tightening the lifter which does nothing
but
> > > limit
> > >> its job why don't you measure the rocker travel. Do some real
> diagnosis.
> > > Install
> > >> a dial indicator on a good rocker and measure the travel while slowly
> > > turning
> > >> over the engine. Then do the same on the suspect rocker. Make sure
that
> if
> > > the
> > >> suspect bad rocker or cam lobe is a intake you put the dial indicator
> on a
> > >> intake, if it is an exhaust, measure an exhaust. Your looking for the
> same
> > >> travel. That will tell you if the cam lobe is worn down. Hell even a
> cheap
> > >> Haynes manual talks about measuring cam lobe lift.
> > >>
> > >>
> > >> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> > >> news:u62dnbvXPvaoOKrfRVn-1w@comcast.com...
> > >> >I don't remember for sure, but I don't believe it does. I'll test
that
> as
> > >> > you mention though, and see if the noise goes away for a second. It
> > > would be
> > >> > nice if it was something as cheap and easy as a bad lifter. I kinda
> > > doubt it
> > >> > though, as I don't imagine moving the rocker that little bit has
much
> > > affect
> > >> > on the lifter. The noise goes away if I push hard on the side of
the
> > > valve
> > >> > spring and retainer, not touching the rocker arm.
> > >> >
> > >> > Cory
> > >> >
> > >> > "tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
> > >> > news:x1LZd.23166$W62.10875@fe09.lga...
> > >> >> when you go to zero plus 1/4, does the noise go away for a bit and
> then
> > >> > come
> > >> >> back?? if so, than you probably have a bad lifter
> > >> >> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> > >> >> news:F_CdnTG1bJjKx6rfRVn-ow@comcast.com...
> > >> >> > Unfortunately that doesn't cure it. I've tried tightening it
even
> > > more
> > >> >> > (slowly with engien running until it runs rough) and it doesn't
do
> > > it.
> > >> > The
> > >> >> > heads don't have a whole lot of miles on them... I got them
second
> > > hand
> > >> >> but
> > >> >> > they did not have many miles on them when I got them, and I've
> only
> > > put
> > >> >> > 18,000 miles on them. They should have less than 25,000 miles.
All
> > > the
> > >> >> other
> > >> >> > rockers are quiet with adjusting to zero+1/4 turn.
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > I'm wondering if maybe the valve guide on that cylinder could be
> > >> > bad/worn
> > >> >> on
> > >> >> > that valve, maybe letting the valve rock a little in the guide.
> The
> > >> > noise
> > >> >> is
> > >> >> > a lower pitched noise than typical rocker noise. Don't know if
> that
> > >> > tells
> > >> >> > you anything though.
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > Cory
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> > "tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
> > >> >> > news:tRGZd.4201$iZ7.523@fe10.lga...
> > >> >> > > adjust your valves to zero lash, plus 1/4 turn. this should
> > > eliminate
> > >> >> your
> > >> >> > > problem
> > >> >> > > "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> > >> >> > > news:i6GdnYahrvGieavfRVn-og@comcast.com...
> > >> >> > > > I have a 302 ('86 block, 28oz imbalance) with '65 289 heads
> > > (round
> > >> >> > pushrod
> > >> >> > > > holes, rail rockers, 53.5cc chambers) it has a stockish
> hydraulic
> > >> > flat
> > >> >> > > > tappet cam.
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > > > My #8 intake valve makes a ticking/tapping noise. It sounds
a
> lot
> > >> > like
> > >> >> > > when
> > >> >> > > > a rocker arm is too loose, except perhaps a bit of a deeper
> tone.
> > >> > With
> > >> >> > the
> > >> >> > > > engine running and the valve cover off the noise is present.
> When
> > > I
> > >> >> push
> > >> >> > > the
> > >> >> > > > rocker arm (at the valve tip) toward the front of the motor,
> the
> > >> > noise
> > >> >> > > goes
> > >> >> > > > away and the motor doesn't make any noise. When I let go it
> will
> > >> > stay
> > >> >> > > silent
> > >> >> > > > for a few seconds, then start making the nosie again. If I
> push
> > > the
> > >> >> > rocker
> > >> >> > > > arm (at the valve tip) toward the back of the motor, it will
> also
> > >> > make
> > >> >> > the
> > >> >> > > > noise. The motor does not make this noise when cold (if it
> does,
> > > it
> > >> > is
> > >> >> > > very
> > >> >> > > > faint), only after running for 5-10 minutes to get up to
> > >> > temperature.
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > > > This noise is not present when turning the motor over by
hand.
> I
> > >> >> checked
> > >> >> > > for
> > >> >> > > > clearance issues between the rails on the rocker arm and the
> > >> > retainer,
> > >> >> > > there
> > >> >> > > > are none. I checekd to ensure the rocker arm slot is long
> enough
> > > and
> > >> >> is
> > >> >> > > not
> > >> >> > > > binding on the stud, it is not. There is no sign of abnormal
w
> ear
> > > on
> > >> >> the
> > >> >> > > > valve tip or the rocker arm. The valve spring and damper
> appear
> > > to
> > >> > be
> > >> >> > > intact
> > >> >> > > > and not binding. The damper does not appear to be hanging or
> > > binding
> > >> >> on
> > >> >> > > the
> > >> >> > > > spring.
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > > > If anyone has any thoughts on what this may be I'd
appreciate
> it.
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > > > Cory
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > > >
> > >> >> > >
> > >> >> > >
> > >> >> >
> > >> >> >
> > >> >>
> > >> >>
> > >> >
> > >> >
> > >>
> > >>
> > >
> > >
> >
> >
>
>
"pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
news:Y9mdnZHtjL5H_KTfRVn-rQ@comcast.com...
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:xeWdnczbPq2UnqTfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
> > "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> > news:lL2dnY1nxYN9R6XfRVn-sQ@comcast.com...
> >>
> >> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> news:JPadncsCaJn2WKXfRVn-gg@comcast.com...
> >> > "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> >> > news:s9SdnedyuJWEH6XfRVn-gA@comcast.com...
> >> >>
> >> >> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> >> news:C5Odnfu9xOE606XfRVn-rA@comcast.com...
> >> >> >I remember now why I stopped reading and posting to this group. Too
> > many
> >> >> > smart-asses like you being rude. I think it's clear I've done a
> > little
> >> > more
> >> >> > than just sit there tightening down on the rocker (can't tighten a
> >> > lifter,
> >> >> > except perhaps with a different spring, smart-ass).
> >> >> >
> >> >>
> >> >> You can over tighten a lifter till the internal spring is collapsed,
> > now
> >> > it's a
> >> >> solid lifter. Once a lifter is adjusted it should never need
adjusting.
> >> >
> >> > Never say never... After 200,000 miles there may be enough wear to
need
> > a
> >> > little adjusting (a common problem with late model 302s with high
> > mileage,
> >> > slight tick in the valvetrain as the rocker arms are the positive
stop
> > type
> >> > and therefore not adjsutable). There is also the fact that the lock
nuts
> >> > used on these heads _will_ loosen over time. It's a fact and
> > unavoidable.
> >> > Using polylocks will prevent rockers backing off, or using two lock
nuts
> >> > (instead of one) will help. I've never heard of an engine that does
not
> > need
> >> > the rockers adjusted periodically. 200,000 miles and I imagine any
> > engine
> >> > will make a little rocker noise unless adjusted. You do mention
lfiters
> >> > needing adjustment though (which lifters can not be adjusted, to my
> >> > knowledge), so maybe you are referring to something else. I am
assuming
> > you
> >> > are referring to adjusting the rocker arms.
> >> >
> >> 300K on my 91 vic, never adjusted. It's non- adjustable. Engine never
> > apart.
> >> except for an intake gasket. That is only one example. Sorry kid, I've
> > been
> >> around a hell of a lot longer than you. Just by the way the lifter
> > operates and
> >> its design, no adjustment needed.
> >
> >
> > Sorry kid, laws of physics and my experience both show that rocker arms
will
> > need periodic adjustment, unless perhaps polylocks are used.
>
> Show an engine with hydraulic tappets that has a recommended periodic
> adjustment. What law of physics are you implying? The fact is that if the
lifter
> starts to tap it's because of reasons like the internal spring is weak.
> Tightening down on it only limits the travel of the plunger. That could
and does
> cause the plunger to bottom out. You just created a new tap. Because of
the
> smaller travel of the plunger, less oil is sent to the rocker, you just
wiped
> out the rocker and valve head. If the bottom of tappet has worn enough to
tap,
> the cam lobe is worn also. That extra play will damage the rod, rocker and
valve
> head. A common problem of engine with solid tappets that have not been
adjusted
> regularly.
Once again, you keep talking about lifter noise. i'm talking about rocker
noise. You keep ignoring that and talking about lifters. Go ahed and keep
donig that buddy, I'm not gonan bother going into any detail correcting you
as you'll just rant on about lifters again.
> Backing off locking nuts? Don't think so.
If you don't believe me talk to someone else who has worked on a lot of old
cars. Lock nuts do back off. All that holds them tight is a resistance fit
at the top of the threads in the nut. That resistance with the threads makes
it so the nut requires more torque to back off. With solid lifters they back
off much sooner, as the lash makes for a harsher life for the lock nut.
Hydraulic lifters will back off the lock nuts too. It takes longer but it
will happen, especially with more radical cams and/or high RPM. Another
reason why with more radical cams you generally upgrade your rockers and use
poly locks. Go ahead and ignore the facts if you choose, it doesn't make any
difference to me or my car.
> >Standard
> > locknuts will back off over time, especially if they have ever been
removed
> > after initial installation.
>
> Meaning you did not do the job correctly, they are supposed to be
replaced.
Lock nuts generally are good for more than one disassembly and reassembly,
and also more than one adjustment. The shop manual also does not say to
replace the lock nut. They can generally be reused several times before they
wear out. However, even brand new lock nuts are not guaranteed to not back
off at all over several hundred thousand miles. it doesn't work that way due
to the very nature of how they are built and the environment of holding hold
a rocker arm.
> > It's a fact, get used to it. In the mean time,
> > try learning some basic Usenet etiquette and trimming your quotes.
> >
> Why dont like to read?
I've already read everything in the thread. Basic Usenet Etuquette is to
trim any excessive non-pertinent text. It makes it cleaner and easier to
read and also reduces the size of the file. It's simply being polite, but
I'm not surprised in the least bit that someone so stubborn as yourself will
not do the polite thing and trim your replies when appropriate. It seems to
me that you've gotten into an 'I'm right, you're wrong' sort of 'Holier than
thou' attitude, and it doesn't matter waht I say, because as far as your
concerned I'm wrong. You can argue all you want about lifters and lock nuts,
and there may be some validity to it from your experience (I'm telling you
what I've seen in my experience, and many of my buddies and internet friends
have experienced... It would be nice if you could respect that as the facts
that it is), however, it is widely accepted and common Usenet practice to
trim your replies when the text gets excessive and is not being replied to.
Go ahead and deny it, or use whatever excuse you want to. I'm just telling
you what is proper and polite.
"pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
news:qfadncKmrrzc_qTfRVn-uA@comcast.com...
>
> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:YdGdneaq3YuqgaTfRVn-hg@comcast.com...
> > Cory Dunkle wrote:
> >> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> news:_6CdnfYPCZ0Dj6TfRVn-rg@comcast.com...
> > Cory,
> > The 351 in this car was a Cleveland (I was mistaken, it's a 69). We
bought it
> > for the motor. The 3 speed trans is ok but the column is worn out.
(Cheap
> > floor shifter).
> > Contact me off the group newton5@at. comcast.net You can figure that
out,
> > no?
> > I might be able to hook you up with Ford parts.
> > Tom
> How so? The Cleveland did not see production till 1970.
Sheesh you really are dense... You think that over 37 years it is not
possibly that someone swapped a different motor into the car? People did it
all the time. Original motor wears out and they just throw in whatever they
have laying around or can get for cheap.
Thanks, you're kind of confirming what I was suspecting. Upon someone's
suggestion I think I'm gonna try removing the valve spring/damper and see if
that may be the problem. Perhaps switch it to anotehr intake valve and see
if teh noise stays at #8 or moves to the new one if I see nothing obviously
wrong with the spring and damper. After that I guess it's down to pulling
the head and taking it somewhere.
Cory
"tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:Q1f_d.26324$AG6.8423@fe09.lga...
> cory, you have to remember from years past when you were playing with the
68
> galaxie,there are a lot of assholes on these newsgroups. just ignore them,
> because as long as you respond/argue with them, they will stay here as
they
> are acheiving their goal, making life miserable for us by taking up space.
> there is one perticulary ignorant one from canada that uses around 10
> different names, but always signs off with a varient of hurc ast. if the
> 0zero plus 1/4 turn did not quiet it, then it is not a lifter, or the
cam.i
> think you are correct with your diagnosis of a problem in the guide, or a
> bad seat/valve. either way it sounds like the head needs to come off. if
you
> are gonna pull 1, you might want to get both of them freshened up ,this
way
> you will not have to second guess if you did it rite later on down the
road.
do you have the hose to pressurize the cylinder ?? if not, you need to do
this before you remove the retainer and spring, otherwise the valve will
drop into the cylinder.
"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:aPidnbPQ5LpYCqTfRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> Thanks, you're kind of confirming what I was suspecting. Upon someone's
> suggestion I think I'm gonna try removing the valve spring/damper and see
if
> that may be the problem. Perhaps switch it to anotehr intake valve and see
> if teh noise stays at #8 or moves to the new one if I see nothing
obviously
> wrong with the spring and damper. After that I guess it's down to pulling
> the head and taking it somewhere.
>
> Cory
>
> "tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
> news:Q1f_d.26324$AG6.8423@fe09.lga...
> > cory, you have to remember from years past when you were playing with
the
> 68
> > galaxie,there are a lot of assholes on these newsgroups. just ignore
them,
> > because as long as you respond/argue with them, they will stay here as
> they
> > are acheiving their goal, making life miserable for us by taking up
space.
> > there is one perticulary ignorant one from canada that uses around 10
> > different names, but always signs off with a varient of hurc ast. if
the
> > 0zero plus 1/4 turn did not quiet it, then it is not a lifter, or the
> cam.i
> > think you are correct with your diagnosis of a problem in the guide, or
a
> > bad seat/valve. either way it sounds like the head needs to come off. if
> you
> > are gonna pull 1, you might want to get both of them freshened up ,this
> way
> > you will not have to second guess if you did it rite later on down the
> road.
>
>
Just asking, because other wise if all the numbers are correct it's some what a
rare find and if in good enough shape a keeper. In the last months of the 69
model year the 351W stock was depleted, so the C engine was installed.
"Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:dpednTOLhqcNJaTfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
>
>>
>> How so? The Cleveland did not see production till 1970.
>
> It was a transplant.
pick one wrote:
> Just asking, because other wise if all the numbers are correct it's some what a
> rare find and if in good enough shape a keeper. In the last months of the 69
> model year the 351W stock was depleted, so the C engine was installed.
> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:dpednTOLhqcNJaTfRVn-iA@comcast.com...
>
>>>How so? The Cleveland did not see production till 1970.
>>
>> It was a transplant.
>
>
>
The former owner installed the Cleveland about 20 years ago. I believe it had a 302
originally.
Its an interesting car. Really bare bones. Rubber mats, no radio, manual brakes and
steering, 3 speed manual trans. It was probably some sort of fleet vehicle. There's
not much left of the rear quarters or trunk and the frame is rusted through.
I don't have the connection to put an air line to the spark plug hole, but I
can either get it or do the old rope in the cylinder trick. Either one will
work just fine for me.
Cory
"tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
news:eCk_d.26360$K73.5654@fe09.lga...
> do you have the hose to pressurize the cylinder ?? if not, you need to do
> this before you remove the retainer and spring, otherwise the valve will
> drop into the cylinder.
> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:aPidnbPQ5LpYCqTfRVn-1g@comcast.com...
> > Thanks, you're kind of confirming what I was suspecting. Upon someone's
> > suggestion I think I'm gonna try removing the valve spring/damper and
see
> if
> > that may be the problem. Perhaps switch it to anotehr intake valve and
see
> > if teh noise stays at #8 or moves to the new one if I see nothing
> obviously
> > wrong with the spring and damper. After that I guess it's down to
pulling
> > the head and taking it somewhere.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> > "tom" <tjctransport@optonline.net> wrote in message
> > news:Q1f_d.26324$AG6.8423@fe09.lga...
> > > cory, you have to remember from years past when you were playing with
> the
> > 68
> > > galaxie,there are a lot of assholes on these newsgroups. just ignore
> them,
> > > because as long as you respond/argue with them, they will stay here as
> > they
> > > are acheiving their goal, making life miserable for us by taking up
> space.
> > > there is one perticulary ignorant one from canada that uses around 10
> > > different names, but always signs off with a varient of hurc ast. if
> the
> > > 0zero plus 1/4 turn did not quiet it, then it is not a lifter, or the
> > cam.i
> > > think you are correct with your diagnosis of a problem in the guide,
or
> a
> > > bad seat/valve. either way it sounds like the head needs to come off.
if
> > you
> > > are gonna pull 1, you might want to get both of them freshened up
,this
> > way
> > > you will not have to second guess if you did it rite later on down the
> > road.
> >
> >
>
>
