Bill

My 91 taurus wagon is usually pretty reliable. Recently though, it
seems though that when the weather is damp, I can crank the engine
over for a long time before it may start. It usually will start after
quite a while of cranking. The battery is pretty good but sometimes
it seems the battery will run out of juice before the car will start.

My mechanic says it is probably the wiring. And that it could use
plugs. He said maybe two hours labor. That seems like a long time to
me. He's also talking about 70 bucks for NAPA wires.

If I change the plug wires it may help. I looked at the wires at the
distributor cap and couldn't tell right off if the cap was the kind
that the wires will attach to or whether I need to replace the whole
cap.

Anybody know about this kind of stuff? Appreciate your help.

Bill

 

Bob Urz

Bill wrote:

> My 91 taurus wagon is usually pretty reliable. Recently though, it
> seems though that when the weather is damp, I can crank the engine
> over for a long time before it may start. It usually will start after
> quite a while of cranking. The battery is pretty good but sometimes
> it seems the battery will run out of juice before the car will start.
>
> My mechanic says it is probably the wiring. And that it could use
> plugs. He said maybe two hours labor. That seems like a long time to
> me. He's also talking about 70 bucks for NAPA wires.
>
> If I change the plug wires it may help. I looked at the wires at the
> distributor cap and couldn't tell right off if the cap was the kind
> that the wires will attach to or whether I need to replace the whole
> cap.
>
> Anybody know about this kind of stuff? Appreciate your help.
>
> Bill

Wires are a doable DIY. Easier on a 3.0 than a 3.8.
A good set of aftermarket wires should be 20 to 40
dollars. Change the plugs and the dist cap while
your at it.

Bob


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Backyard Mechanic

Bob Urz <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote:

>
>
> Bill wrote:
>
>> My 91 taurus wagon is usually pretty reliable. Recently though, it
>> seems though that when the weather is damp, I can crank the engine
>> over for a long time before it may start. It usually will start
>> after quite a while of cranking. The battery is pretty good but
>> sometimes it seems the battery will run out of juice before the car
>> will start.
>>
>> My mechanic says it is probably the wiring. And that it could use
>> plugs. He said maybe two hours labor. That seems like a long time to
>> me. He's also talking about 70 bucks for NAPA wires.
>>
>> If I change the plug wires it may help. I looked at the wires at the
>> distributor cap and couldn't tell right off if the cap was the kind
>> that the wires will attach to or whether I need to replace the whole
>> cap.
>>
>> Anybody know about this kind of stuff? Appreciate your help.
>>
>> Bill
>
> Wires are a doable DIY. Easier on a 3.0 than a 3.8.
> A good set of aftermarket wires should be 20 to 40
> dollars. Change the plugs and the dist cap while
> your at it.
>

Note he said GOOD set, plug wires are no place to save money... like
brake parts, never buy the cheapest

And I hate to tell you this, but the coil is also supect under those
symptoms. Run the warmed up engine in the dark and look at the coil..
you may see bluish light or sparks between the metal frame and the
bobbin.

In daylight, look for dusty deposits there.

A coil is a DIY project, even if you dont want to mess with cap, plugs
and wires.. fairly simple to change and they cost about $20. go for
Echlin brand rather than Wells.

--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Bill

On Mon, 05 Dec 2005 00:16:57 GMT, Backyard Mechanic
<pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote:

>Bob Urz <sound@inetnebr.com> wrote:
>

>>
>> Wires are a doable DIY. Easier on a 3.0 than a 3.8.
>> A good set of aftermarket wires should be 20 to 40
>> dollars. Change the plugs and the dist cap while
>> your at it.
>>
Ok, Thanks Guys,

Now I know where the plugs, wires and distributor cap are, but where
is the coil located? Sorry, but I really don't know much about all
this stuff. I have changed plugs and wires before And I think I once
changed a distributor cap years ago, but never a coil. I think I have
a Chiltons here for it though.
>
>Note he said GOOD set, plug wires are no place to save money... like
>brake parts, never buy the cheapest
>
>And I hate to tell you this, but the coil is also supect under those
>symptoms. Run the warmed up engine in the dark and look at the coil..
>you may see bluish light or sparks between the metal frame and the
>bobbin.
>
>In daylight, look for dusty deposits there.
>
>A coil is a DIY project, even if you dont want to mess with cap, plugs
>and wires.. fairly simple to change and they cost about $20. go for
>Echlin brand rather than Wells.

Backyard Mechanic

Bill <billkunderscoreyork@yahoo.com> wrote:

Follow the wire from the center of the distributor cap... that's the
coil

Mind, it may not be causing the problem... but if oyu look at it while
engine runs, in dark...

Also if plugs wires and cap dont fix the problem

>>>
> Ok, Thanks Guys,
>
> Now I know where the plugs, wires and distributor cap are, but where
> is the coil located? Sorry, but I really don't know much about all
> this stuff. I have changed plugs and wires before And I think I once
> changed a distributor cap years ago, but never a coil. I think I have
> a Chiltons here for it though.
>>
>>Note he said GOOD set, plug wires are no place to save money... like
>>brake parts, never buy the cheapest
>>
>>And I hate to tell you this, but the coil is also supect under those
>>symptoms. Run the warmed up engine in the dark and look at the coil..
>>you may see bluish light or sparks between the metal frame and the
>>bobbin.
>>
>>In daylight, look for dusty deposits there.
>>
>>A coil is a DIY project, even if you dont want to mess with cap, plugs
>>and wires.. fairly simple to change and they cost about $20. go for
>>Echlin brand rather than Wells.
>



--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!

Petebert

If I where going to buy wires for a Taurus I'd go with a motorcraft set from
rockauto.com for $30 instead of a Napa set for $70

"Bill" <billkunderscoreyork@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:j2u6p153qidh9g7b1o3r2egn15tj9tu3ej@4ax.com...
> My 91 taurus wagon is usually pretty reliable. Recently though, it
> seems though that when the weather is damp, I can crank the engine
> over for a long time before it may start. It usually will start after
> quite a while of cranking. The battery is pretty good but sometimes
> it seems the battery will run out of juice before the car will start.
>
> My mechanic says it is probably the wiring. And that it could use
> plugs. He said maybe two hours labor. That seems like a long time to
> me. He's also talking about 70 bucks for NAPA wires.
>
> If I change the plug wires it may help. I looked at the wires at the
> distributor cap and couldn't tell right off if the cap was the kind
> that the wires will attach to or whether I need to replace the whole
> cap.
>
> Anybody know about this kind of stuff? Appreciate your help.
>
> Bill