Tom Adkins wrote:
> email@example.com wrote:
> > I thought I would run this by you all, it could happen to you.
> > I have a 94 Escort LX wagon with 70 K + on it. It belongs to my elderly
> > mother, and I'm not around much to do the maintainence. I've been
> > worried about the timing belt, but the manual lists no replacement
> > mileage, so I breezed past 60 K thinking I was all right. It's a
> > Florida car, but what happened was I was up north with it, and it got
> > very cold very quickly overnight, and the serpentine belt shredded into
> > three parts, with lots of banging. So I pulled over and removed most of
> > the obvious pieces of the belt. I shut down all the electrics and
> > started it again, and a another piece of that belt whipped around and
> > snaked up into a gap between the timing belt cover and the block, and
> > snapped the timing belt. If I had been more attentive, I could have
> > crawled under the car and removed most if not all of the remaining
> > shredded pieces before I tried starting it. Be forewarned.
> > When I tore it down, the timing belt was in very good shape (except for
> > being catastrophically snapped). This is the first time I've done this
> > job, so the questions I have are : the gears are quite a bit larger
> > than the width of the belt, does it matter where exactly the timing
> > belt should be centered on the gears? The old belt was slightly off
> > center towards the block, but if it is off center one way or the other
> > too much, could that cause premature or excessive wear on the new belt?
> > I'm out in the boonies and I don't have proper access to my tools here,
> > so how important is exact torque on the tensioner and pulley bolts? Can
> > I estimate these things, or should I just go out a buy a cheap torque
> > wrench?
> > Stupid questions I know, but I can't afford to have this happen again
> > with my disabled mother in the car, when it's freezing cold out there,
> > or on the wide open highway.
> > Just trying to dot my i and cross my t.
> On the 1.9 "Escort" motor it is always a good idea to replace the water pump when
> doing the timing belt. The belt also drives the pump, so a water pump failure will
> take out the timing belt. That's a very common failure. I believe the 94 had the
> tensioner assembly as part of it the pump.
I'm aware of that, but this is a learning experience with me, it's
freezing cold, I'm outdoor in the boonies, without the proper tools. I
just can't bite off more that I can chew, at any one time. Now that I
am familiar with the procedure, I should be able to repeat it
indefinitely, and I have two of these vehicles. So I finally got it
going, with only some minor issues, spark plug #1 clearance, the usual
belt nightmares, no 17 mm long for the engine mount.
Autolite stock plugs, are they crap? I just got some, so I had some.
the original platinum plugs have a HUGE gap, but the engine runs good
and gets good mileage (35 highway - 350 miles per tank).
Main pulley backup for 100 ft-lbs torque, is that a special tool? I see
some small holes in the pulley, is that for balancing, or does some
special backup tool fit in there? Anyways, all I could do was tighten
it with the biggest ratchet I had, and then hit it with the impact
wrench for good measure. I see a rubber port in the mud flap to get at
Now onto the water pump, thermostat, temperature sensors, O2 sensor,
hoses, vacuum lines, valves, etc, on and on and on, it's a 10 year old
Is the valve seat failure problem for the 1.9 SEFI are real issue? Or
is that just the primary catastrophic failure mode? I know, question,
questions, questions, now I'm paranoid, see?