clemslay@iname.com

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 11:01:55 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
wrote:

>computer will compensate by leaning out the mixture. A leaner mixture burns
>hotter, raising combustion chamber temps and thus the temperature of the

Wrong! That is true with a carbureted engine, but the opposite
happens with a fuel injected engine.
And you are talking about a Taurus, not a 289/302.

To the original poster, have you tried a new TFI module?

 

clemslay@iname.com

On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:58:33 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
wrote:

>sensors tell it the engine is suffering pre-detonation? A lean mixture and
>retarded timing will certainly cause higher engine temps, and retarded

No, a fuel injected engine running lean will run colder.
Move into the '80s...

Cory Dunkle

<clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
news:upmu31dkilnnhtoef1f4n6lt07c5o3s5ft@4ax.com...
> On Wed, 16 Mar 2005 18:58:33 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >sensors tell it the engine is suffering pre-detonation? A lean mixture
and
> >retarded timing will certainly cause higher engine temps, and retarded
>
> No, a fuel injected engine running lean will run colder.
> Move into the '80s...

Intersting. How will a lean mixture burn colder? Car engines run richer that
stoicheometric. Stoich is quite 'lean' for automotice engien standards and
will burn too hot, causing damage to parts. I'm curious, if you are correct
in that fuel injected engines running the same lean mixture as a carbureted
engine will burn colder than a carbureted engine, please explain how that
is. Leaner burns hotter, the flame front on the cylinder does not 'see' the
fuel inject or carb. All it 'sees' is the air/fuel ratio, so how the air and
fuel were mixed is irrelevant, or at elast should be as far as anything I
was ever tought. Anyhow, please elaborate and explain how an engine running
a relatively lean mixture will run colder with fuel injection than it would
with a carburetor delivering that same mixture.

Cory

Cory Dunkle

<clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
> wrote:
>
> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran the car
for
> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never triggered
because
> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running on
teh
>
> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
> if it has little or no coolant.

Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a temperature hot
enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.

Cory

pick one

"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:_MOdnTzft83-WaLfRVn-2w@comcast.com...
> <clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
> news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
>> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran the car
> for
>> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never triggered
> because
>> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running on
> teh
>>
>> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
>> if it has little or no coolant.
>
> Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a temperature hot
> enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.
>
> Cory
>
>
Not only will the red light go out but if there is a gauge it will go cold.

Cory Dunkle

"pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
news:W6OdnVRtkPuNnt3fRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:_MOdnTzft83-WaLfRVn-2w@comcast.com...
> > <clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
> > news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
> >> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
> >> wrote:
> >>
> >> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran the
car
> > for
> >> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never triggered
> > because
> >> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running on
> > teh
> >>
> >> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
> >> if it has little or no coolant.
> >
> > Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a temperature
hot
> > enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.
> >
> > Cory
> >
> >
> Not only will the red light go out but if there is a gauge it will go
cold.

Alright buddy, you keep on believing that. Your theory is nice and dandy,
but I speak from real world experience. Time to rework your theory, kid.

pick one

"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:U8-dnY4xW81s193fRVn-sA@comcast.com...
> "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> news:W6OdnVRtkPuNnt3fRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>>
>> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:_MOdnTzft83-WaLfRVn-2w@comcast.com...
>> > <clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
>> > news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
>> >> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran the
> car
>> > for
>> >> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never triggered
>> > because
>> >> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running on
>> > teh
>> >>
>> >> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
>> >> if it has little or no coolant.
>> >
>> > Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a temperature
> hot
>> > enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.
>> >
>> > Cory
>> >
>> >
>> Not only will the red light go out but if there is a gauge it will go
> cold.
>
> Alright buddy, you keep on believing that. Your theory is nice and dandy,
> but I speak from real world experience. Time to rework your theory, kid.
>
Just as others have said it is true.
>

pick one

"Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:U8-dnY4xW81s193fRVn-sA@comcast.com...
> "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> news:W6OdnVRtkPuNnt3fRVn-iw@comcast.com...
>>
>> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
>> news:_MOdnTzft83-WaLfRVn-2w@comcast.com...
>> > <clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
>> > news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
>> >> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
>> >> wrote:
>> >>
>> >> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran the
> car
>> > for
>> >> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never triggered
>> > because
>> >> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running on
>> > teh
>> >>
>> >> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
>> >> if it has little or no coolant.
>> >
>> > Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a temperature
> hot
>> > enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.
>> >
>> > Cory
>> >
>> >
>> Not only will the red light go out but if there is a gauge it will go
> cold.
>
> Alright buddy, you keep on believing that. Your theory is nice and dandy,
> but I speak from real world experience. Time to rework your theory, kid.
>
>
You speak of VERY little experience. Yes you work on your precious old car, I
work in the field and have most likely more years than you are alive. The fact
is if you are out of coolant you just lost heat transfer. The combustion
chambers over heat while the rest of the block slowly absorbe the heat by
contact. Until the heat transfers to the rest of the engine the coolant gauge
will most certainly read normal if not cold. The red light will act the same
way. If the cooling system is low the light or gauge will read normal to hot
back to normal as the air pockets come and go. It is a fact. Many customers
continue to drive after they see lots of vapors escape from under the hood and
notice the coolant gauge drops. They think it's ok till the car just stops. The
engine is now destroyed.

Cory Dunkle

"pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
news:M-2dnXWrKLLkI93fRVn-gw@comcast.com...
>
> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:U8-dnY4xW81s193fRVn-sA@comcast.com...
> > "pick one" <try again!> wrote in message
> > news:W6OdnVRtkPuNnt3fRVn-iw@comcast.com...
> >>
> >> "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net> wrote in message
> >> news:_MOdnTzft83-WaLfRVn-2w@comcast.com...
> >> > <clemslay@iname.com> wrote in message
> >> > news:32mu31tadipqunql0q3uqmecjnnkuicc0m@4ax.com...
> >> >> On Tue, 15 Mar 2005 17:06:59 -0500, "Cory Dunkle"
<cdnews@comcast.net>
> >> >> wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >> >compression was lower and I expected power to be lower. So I ran
the
> > car
> >> > for
> >> >> >a week with virtually no coolant. The overheat light never
triggered
> >> > because
> >> >> >I accidentally broke the sender (it was a bad day). Anyhow, running
on
> >> > teh
> >> >>
> >> >> The hot light won't come on even if the engine is overheated,
> >> >> if it has little or no coolant.
> >> >
> >> > Yes, it will. The steam in the coolant system will reach a
temperature
> > hot
> >> > enough to trip the temp sensor on hot.
> >> >
> >> > Cory
> >> >
> >> >
> >> Not only will the red light go out but if there is a gauge it will go
> > cold.
> >
> > Alright buddy, you keep on believing that. Your theory is nice and
dandy,
> > but I speak from real world experience. Time to rework your theory, kid.
> >
> >
> You speak of VERY little experience. Yes you work on your precious old
car, I
> work in the field and have most likely more years than you are alive. The
fact
> is if you are out of coolant you just lost heat transfer. The combustion
> chambers over heat while the rest of the block slowly absorbe the heat by
> contact. Until the heat transfers to the rest of the engine the coolant
gauge
> will most certainly read normal if not cold. The red light will act the
same
> way. If the cooling system is low the light or gauge will read normal to
hot
> back to normal as the air pockets come and go. It is a fact. Many
customers
> continue to drive after they see lots of vapors escape from under the hood
and
> notice the coolant gauge drops. They think it's ok till the car just
stops. The
> engine is now destroyed.

Nice theory, but the steam in the system from whatever amount of coolant is
remaining in the block is enough to heat the sensor enough to read hot. I've
seen this on small block Fords and also heard the same from others. That is
to say people who have observed a car with the radiator drained trip the
overheat light.

In my experience a small block Ford (an engine, not a "precious old car",
which has been in production well into the '90s). Furthermore, I'd hardly
call en engine which has been run until overheated destroyed. Common
failures in an engine subjected to such conditions are head gasket damage,
ring damage, and possibly bearing damage also on aluminum headed engines the
heads will sometimes warp. All of these are fairly cheap fixes and the
engine is by no means "destroyed". A simple hone, re-ring and new bearings
and possible milling of the heads is usually enough to get the engine
running well again.

You keep on believing whatever you like, but I sure as heck would never let
you touch any of my cars with a 10 foot pole. Your ineptitude is glaringly
obvious.

Cory

email name

On Sat, 26 Mar 2005 00:29:49 -0500, "Cory Dunkle" <cdnews@comcast.net>
wrote:

><snip>
>, I'd hardly
>call en engine which has been run until overheated destroyed. Common
>failures in an engine subjected to such conditions are head gasket damage,
>ring damage, and possibly bearing damage also on aluminum headed engines the
>heads will sometimes warp.
For the majority of drivers, destroyed.
>All of these are fairly cheap fixes
>and the
>engine is by no means "destroyed". A simple hone, re-ring and new bearings
>and possible milling of the heads is usually enough to get the engine
>running well again.
With an good used engine running between $500 ~$2000 for most cars and
with shop rates running between $50 & $100 Per hour your "cheap fixes
can quickly eclipse the market value of the vehicle. Even if the
engine rebuild/ "cheaply fixed" is done any reputable mechanic will
have to install new belts hoses & fix whatever caused the overheat.
Add to that the cost of a rental vehicle what the engine is being
"cheaply fixed" and you're starting to talk money.
>
>You keep on believing whatever you like, but I sure as heck would never let
>you touch any of my cars with a 10 foot pole. Your ineptitude is glaringly
>obvious.
>
> Cory
>
A simple "milling of the heads, hone, re-ring, new bearings, magna
flux, etc, etc, etc." costs money in the world that I live in.
Perhaps it's cheaper on the planet that you reside.