Re: 95 Taurus, 3.8 GL Sedan,engine oil Pan replacement due to Rust leak: What must be removed first so oil pan drops clear?
On Tue, 22 Mar 2005 15:36:53 GMT, "SQUIRE" <email@example.com>
>"Jim Warman" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
>> Looks like the Y pipe, then starter, then rear engine plate. Since your
>> sounds tough for rust, I can really offer up real good advise on whether
>> go manifold or pipe connections. I might buy stocks in penetrating oil
>> companies, though... 8^)
>What is " 8^ " ?
>Also, do you have preference for penetrating oil and could you offer any
>other suggestions for preventing stripping and breaking bolts during Y-pipe
Heat the "ear" of the manifold where the stud goes through, cool the
stud (liquid nitrogen is ideal if you can get it, otherwise a wet rag
will sometimes suffice) impact the stud a few times (ball peen hammer)
then gently try turning it while keeping the manifold ear hot.
When the stud breaks (Murphy's law dictates that at least 1 will) fill
the manifold with a wet rag, heat up the 'stud only' & give it a shot
of oxygen. If it's done correctly you can blow out the stud leaving
the manifold undamaged, then run a tap through it and clean the
OR........Take the Jiffy lube crowd approach. Break off the ear of
the manifold that holds the stud & tack weld in a new stud for
reassembly (and yes I've seen vehicles that's been done on).