Jimbo

Wife had an interesting problem recently: 96 Taurus started and ran
just fine but wouldn't stop. She pulled the negative lead to the
battery in the end (good training). Anyway, ignition switch checks
out, lock cylinder is fine so it looks like the linkage between the
two. I know in the mk. 2 Taurus (thru a Google search and some hits on
this group) the steering column had to be dropped to get at it. Is it
the same in the 96 model?

Thanks in advance.

Jimbo

 

fred@usenet.com

On 8 Mar 2005 16:51:29 -0800, "Jimbo" <jfroche@gmail.com> wrote:

>Wife had an interesting problem recently: 96 Taurus started and ran
>just fine but wouldn't stop. She pulled the negative lead to the
>battery in the end (good training). Anyway, ignition switch checks
>out, lock cylinder is fine so it looks like the linkage between the
>two. I know in the mk. 2 Taurus (thru a Google search and some hits on
>this group) the steering column had to be dropped to get at it. Is it
>the same in the 96 model?
>
>Thanks in advance.
>
>Jimbo
sounds like a stuck relay
check power distribution center


hurc ast

Kenn

When you drop the column, you will need to remove the key cyl. turn the key
to "on" position and push in the small silver button underneath. PASSIVE
ANTI-THEFT CAN BE DAMAGED IF NOT CAREFUL. do NOT damage the little plastic
collar around the key cyl if it has one, your car wont run.

If I remember correctly, at this point, you will have to remove the shift
linkage (Except LS and floor shift models) from there, you should be home
free...It's a small shaft that you will have to re-clock to get it into
the correct position. If you haven't ever done it...be careful, it will be
frusterating. If it's not cloked correctly, the "on" position might be
"start" or "acc".

Hope this helps.

Kenn

Jimbo

"Kenn" <rockett_rulz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:088b1711eb4bdf35ed4b241021c0659d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> When you drop the column, you will need to remove the key cyl. turn the
> key
> to "on" position and push in the small silver button underneath. PASSIVE
> ANTI-THEFT CAN BE DAMAGED IF NOT CAREFUL. do NOT damage the little plastic
> collar around the key cyl if it has one, your car wont run.
>
> If I remember correctly, at this point, you will have to remove the shift
> linkage (Except LS and floor shift models) from there, you should be home
> free...It's a small shaft that you will have to re-clock to get it into
> the correct position. If you haven't ever done it...be careful, it will be
> frusterating. If it's not cloked correctly, the "on" position might be
> "start" or "acc".

Thanks. I unscrewed ignition switch and the linkage seems to move as it's
supposed to - is it possible that it just slipped out of place?

Right now, ignition switch is hanging down below column but everything runs
just fine. Looks like the plastic collar you mention has a bent contact
(brother in law took it off) so chimes come on when key is out and door is
open.

Jimbo

Jim Warman

That was my point, Kenn.... The advice was "drop column". Without knowing
the skill set or experience of the recipient of the advice, it is prudent to
add what to look for, if any special tools are required and if there any
"gotchas". Additionally, there may be others viewing the thread that the
thread may apply to. Their skill set may be vastly different from the person
offering the original question.

Most folks come to these types of NGs to save money.. in many cases, money
they don't have. This is an important consideration when giving advice. We
need to give as accurate an assessment as we can with the information we
have and we have a real need to replace "shotgun" repairs using expensive
parts with sound diagnostics using relatively inexpensive self-performed
labour. Not to mention that "self-performed" labour is a nifty way to
justify buying new tools.


"Kenn" <rockett_rulz@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:088b1711eb4bdf35ed4b241021c0659d@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> When you drop the column, you will need to remove the key cyl. turn the
key
> to "on" position and push in the small silver button underneath. PASSIVE
> ANTI-THEFT CAN BE DAMAGED IF NOT CAREFUL. do NOT damage the little plastic
> collar around the key cyl if it has one, your car wont run.
>
> If I remember correctly, at this point, you will have to remove the shift
> linkage (Except LS and floor shift models) from there, you should be home
> free...It's a small shaft that you will have to re-clock to get it into
> the correct position. If you haven't ever done it...be careful, it will be
> frusterating. If it's not cloked correctly, the "on" position might be
> "start" or "acc".
>
> Hope this helps.
>
> Kenn
>

Jimbo

"Jim Warman" <mechanic@tenalpsulet.net> wrote in message
news:npTXd.11710$ZO2.6622@edtnps84...
(snip to)
> Most folks come to these types of NGs to save money.. in many cases, money
> they don't have. This is an important consideration when giving advice. We
> need to give as accurate an assessment as we can with the information we
> have and we have a real need to replace "shotgun" repairs using expensive
> parts with sound diagnostics using relatively inexpensive self-performed
> labour. Not to mention that "self-performed" labour is a nifty way to
> justify buying new tools.
(snip)
Speaking for myself and my friends who work on their own cars, the reason we
come here looking for advice and sharing experience is because we don't know
or trust anyone in the trade. We all have enough money to get the work
done, but we enjoy doing it ourselves and simply don't want to pay some
so-called "professional" that we don't trust in the first place.

Jimbo