is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I
>
> have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
>
>
yep.. it's not how much can get through.. it's how many paths it has.
think about that little hole in your kitchen faucet.. shower head
restrictor, etc.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
Since your water pressure is likely to be in the neighbourhood of 60 PSI or
better, enough water can be forced through the heater core to look very
impressive. If flushing the core *both ways* hasn't improved the condition,
it is very likely that it will need replacement.
HTH
"grun" <grun@charter.net> wrote in message
news:1132147233.595987.61150@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> 99 taurus. 3.0 OHV. Very little heat inside car.Put in a flush tee,took
>
> opposite end of hose off heater core and flushed water through..had
> good flow..replaced themostat,radiator cap, and the water pump..I,d say
>
> heat works 10% better. What is the next step? The air is not very
> powerful blowing out of the vents,defrost,or heat vents...also the hose
>
> going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely
> warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I
>
> have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
>
> going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely
> warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I
>
> have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
>
>
doesnt sound right.
check the coolant routing and how the core nipples are oriented.
If they are vertical, and coolant flow from engine is to top, then air
bubble can collect in the top of core and not get out.
top nipple should trace to water pump
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:51:14 GMT, Backyard Mechanic
<pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote:
>"grun" <grun@charter.net> wrote:
>
>> going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely
>> warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though I
>>
>> have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
>>
>>
>
>doesnt sound right.
>
>check the coolant routing and how the core nipples are oriented.
>
>If they are vertical, and coolant flow from engine is to top, then air
>bubble can collect in the top of core and not get out.
>
>top nipple should trace to water pump
In my 96 mustang 3.8.. loosing my heat is the FIRST indication I'm
low on coolant in the block.. doesn't take much of a bubble in there..
> On Wed, 16 Nov 2005 14:51:14 GMT, Backyard Mechanic
> <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote:
>
>>"grun" <grun@charter.net> wrote:
>>
>>> going into the heater core is very hot but the outlet hose is barely
>>> warm,is it possible that the heater core is still plugged even though
I
>>>
>>> have good flow from the inlet to the outlet ???
>>>
>>>
>>
>>doesnt sound right.
>>
>>check the coolant routing and how the core nipples are oriented.
>>
>>If they are vertical, and coolant flow from engine is to top, then air
>>bubble can collect in the top of core and not get out.
>>
>>top nipple should trace to water pump
>
> In my 96 mustang 3.8.. loosing my heat is the FIRST indication I'm
> low on coolant in the block.. doesn't take much of a bubble in there..
>
>
It's always been that way on the later fords I've had... happens before
you see erratic temp gauge.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
first make sure the top nipple traces to the water pump
second install a flush T in that line, highest point possible.. but close
to heater as possible.
Remember the bubble wants to go UP
You are going to have to burp this several times, in probably several
sessions as bubbles in the block migrate to heater
If the bubbles are actually able to migrate, once the thermostat opens
they should go to the radiator and, eventually, out the cap to the degas
bottle... which should be kept about half full.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
hey dude forget all the things u read,if u tryedit.check your so called
blend door, it will get stuck and cause u not to have the heat u want. i
can't tell u where it is but it's expensive to get fixed,unless u do it
yourself.then it just takes time no parts. about a hundred bucks to get it
done. at shop. ford has this problem for a long time alot of people have
complained to ford motor co.but to no avail. good luck.
Just take off the radiator cap when its cold and fill it to about a couple
inches from the top. Fill the overflow tank to its normal level. Leave the
cap off. Then start the car and let it heat up. As the coolant starts to
rise up and almost out of the radiator, quickly put the cap back on. The let
the car cool off and open the radiator and check if its full. Top off the
overflow tank too. You might have to do this a couple of times. Works for
me.
Fred
"moburner99" <moburner99@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:53fc4da0afd270af0b77e347ee8c7396@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> hey dude forget all the things u read,if u tryedit.check your so called
> blend door, it will get stuck and cause u not to have the heat u want. i
> can't tell u where it is but it's expensive to get fixed,unless u do it
> yourself.then it just takes time no parts. about a hundred bucks to get it
> done. at shop. ford has this problem for a long time alot of people have
> complained to ford motor co.but to no avail. good luck.
>
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