GRL

The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
glass.

I seem to have three options:

-replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
window for half that

-have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)

-use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on


My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
and has anyone tried them without success?



- GRL

Martin Riddle

Some conductive epoxies are very good. But they probably will not handle the current, ( Its around 30amps for the rear defroster)

You can try adhesive copper foil, it will make an electrical bond, plus give you the needed surface area. You can solder to the foil
then place the foil onto your defrost grid.

The best solution if replacement. Get a quote from safelight or some other glass place. Qoute on OEM and aftermarket windows (OEM
perfered).

Cheers

"GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET> wrote in message news:7J2Ye.585$X6.237@fe05.lga...
> The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
> came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
> work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
> glass.
>
> I seem to have three options:
>
> -replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
> had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
> window for half that
>
> -have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
> risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>
> -use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>
>
> My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
> and has anyone tried them without success?
>
>
>
> - GRL
>
>

GRL

The conductive epoxies I've seen are sold for this purpose. The current
should not be a problem as long as the epoxy resistance is low. After all,
power dissipation is i-squared R.Low resistance means little heat to damage
the epoxy.

Where would one get this adhesive copper film? If the adhesive is not
conductive, then it would still not work, right? So is it really any better
than conductive epoxy?

- GRL

"Martin Riddle" <martinriddle@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:0E3Ye.8547$T55.2481@trndny06...
> Some conductive epoxies are very good. But they probably will not handle
> the current, ( Its around 30amps for the rear defroster)
>
> You can try adhesive copper foil, it will make an electrical bond, plus
> give you the needed surface area. You can solder to the foil
> then place the foil onto your defrost grid.
>
> The best solution if replacement. Get a quote from safelight or some other
> glass place. Qoute on OEM and aftermarket windows (OEM
> perfered).
>
> Cheers
>
> "GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET> wrote in message
> news:7J2Ye.585$X6.237@fe05.lga...
>> The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
>> came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
>> work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
>> glass.
>>
>> I seem to have three options:
>>
>> -replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what
>> I
>> had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used
>> rear
>> window for half that
>>
>> -have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
>> risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>>
>> -use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>>
>>
>> My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third
>> options
>> and has anyone tried them without success?
>>
>>
>>
>> - GRL
>>
>>
>
>

Sarge

GRL wrote: "The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000
Yukon XL came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality
construction at work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate
with it from the glass.
I seem to have three options:
-replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
window for half that
-have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
-use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
and has anyone tried them without success?"


Try looking in google:

Here is two how to articles:

http://autorepair.about.com/cs/doity...a112302a_3.htm
http://www.ifsja.org/tech/body/defroster_repair.shtml


Here is a link to a kit:

http://www.frostfighter.com/


Sarge

Steve W.

"GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET> wrote in message
news:7J2Ye.585$X6.237@fe05.lga...
> The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon
XL
> came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction
at
> work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from
the
> glass.
>
> I seem to have three options:
>
> -replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine
what I
> had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used
rear
> window for half that
>
> -have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that
this
> risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>
> -use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>
>
> My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third
options
> and has anyone tried them without success?
>
>
>
> - GRL
>
>

I've soldered a couple of these back on with no problem. First you need
to clean the area on the glass real good. Then lightly tin it I use a
tinning paste for that so it tins fast and lessens the heat applied to
the glass. Then I clean up the tab and tin it. Then I put enough solder
on it to flow out when it is heated again. Then hold the tab on the
glass and heat it up till the solder flows and bonds. Let it cool and
reinstall the wire.



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nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca

On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 21:30:42 -0400, "GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET>
wrote:

>The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
>came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
>work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
>glass.
>
>I seem to have three options:
>
>-replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
>had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
>window for half that
>
>-have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
>risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>
>-use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>
>
>My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
>and has anyone tried them without success?
>
>
>
>- GRL
>

I have done both many times with good results.
A product that generally works pretty well is something called "solder
it" silver bearing solder paste. It is a low melting point eutectic
solder - melts at 430F. The tube I have is from Unival Corp,
Pleasantville New York.

Robert

Sorry didn't read all the posts so this may have been suggested. I know at
Canadian Tire stores in Canada they sell a defroster repair kit. Looks like
liquid copper to me. Possibly just use some adhesive (like they use for
rear view mirrors) and use the copper liquid to make a good connection.
Robert


<nospam.clare.nce@sny.der.on.ca> wrote in message
news:34s3j1p13c1e23r83c890po2cik7fm07a7@4ax.com...
> On Tue, 20 Sep 2005 21:30:42 -0400, "GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET>
> wrote:
>
>>The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
>>came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
>>work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
>>glass.
>>
>>I seem to have three options:
>>
>>-replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
>>had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
>>window for half that
>>
>>-have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
>>risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>>
>>-use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>>
>>
>>My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
>>and has anyone tried them without success?
>>
>>
>>
>>- GRL
>>
>
> I have done both many times with good results.
> A product that generally works pretty well is something called "solder
> it" silver bearing solder paste. It is a low melting point eutectic
> solder - melts at 430F. The tube I have is from Unival Corp,
> Pleasantville New York.
>

Paul of Dayon

I fixed one on my T-Bird years ago. I just bought the epoxy kit at AutoZone
and followed directions... It lasted 10 years, last I knew...

PoD


"GRL" <GLitwinski@CHARTERMI.NET> wrote in message
news:7J2Ye.585$X6.237@fe05.lga...
> The contact tab on one side of the rear hatch window on my 2000 Yukon XL
> came off last winter at 28,000 miles. (More GMC quality construction at
> work.) The tab took a little of the conducting substrate with it from the
> glass.
>
> I seem to have three options:
>
> -replace the entire rear glass for $700 plus labor (you can imagine what I
> had to say about GM when I got that price) or try to find a good used rear
> window for half that
>
> -have a glass shop try to solder the tab back on (I understand that this
> risks shattering the glass if it is over-heated)
>
> -use a conductive epoxy to put the tab back on
>
>
> My question is, has anyone successfully tried the second and third options
> and has anyone tried them without success?
>
>
>
> - GRL
>

Dark1

"Paul of Dayon" <plus1111@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:RMnYe.1135$Vz7.276@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
>I fixed one on my T-Bird years ago. I just bought the epoxy kit at
>AutoZone and followed directions... It lasted 10 years, last I knew...
>
> PoD
>
odd, when I asked the people at autozone about a product for that purpose
(same thing on my tbird), they said all they had was the kits to fill in the
"wires"..nothing to adhere the tabs..
do you remember the name of the product?

Paul of Dayon

It's been years ago - I found it in the glue aisle. It may have been
someplace other than AZ but I usually go there first. My next stop is NAPA,
if they don't have it it's not made. The shop manual listed a factory kit
but I know I didn't go to the dealer for it. I expect it was made by
Loctite or someone similar.

PoD



"Dark1" <betterask4it@ifyouwantit.com> wrote in message
news:CZwYe.15708$ib1.6529@tornado.ohiordc.rr.com...
>
> "Paul of Dayon" <plus1111@nospam.hotmail.com> wrote in message
> news:RMnYe.1135$Vz7.276@newssvr23.news.prodigy.net...
>>I fixed one on my T-Bird years ago. I just bought the epoxy kit at
>>AutoZone and followed directions... It lasted 10 years, last I knew...
>>
>> PoD
>>
> odd, when I asked the people at autozone about a product for that purpose
> (same thing on my tbird), they said all they had was the kits to fill in
> the "wires"..nothing to adhere the tabs..
> do you remember the name of the product?
>