John

Hello. I have a 1996 Mercury Sable, 65K miles, 24VOHC.

I start the car in the morning. The RPM revs all the way to 3000, then it
waivers between 2000 and 3000.
After a long time, it MIGHT work its way down to normal idle (1000) and then
it will jump from 1000-1400.

Sometimes, it revs up and then just sits around 2000 rpm .

All of this is in Park.

I hate having to put in gear at 1500 rpm just to get to work, because the
car shoots forward and it is not good on the transmission or engine.

When I am idling in traffic (1000 rpm), it will sometimes just shoot up to
1500 rpm, then back down

??


Something is giving this car gas, and it ain't my foot!

All recommendations appreciated!

Thanks!

John

eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com

Sounds to me like there is a problem with your car's throttle body.
Get it checked by an ASE certified mechanic asap. This damages the
engine. 80% of engine wear happens the first 3 minutes of a cold start
up because the engine has to start up with no oil coating the crank
shaft as it has all settled to the bottom overnight. And also because
the heat still needs to expand the cylindars. The rings are rubbing up
against it metal to metal as the engine heats up and it's not good.




John wrote:
> Hello. I have a 1996 Mercury Sable, 65K miles, 24VOHC.
>
> I start the car in the morning. The RPM revs all the way to 3000,
then it
> waivers between 2000 and 3000.
> After a long time, it MIGHT work its way down to normal idle (1000)
and then
> it will jump from 1000-1400.
>
> Sometimes, it revs up and then just sits around 2000 rpm .
>
> All of this is in Park.
>
> I hate having to put in gear at 1500 rpm just to get to work, because
the
> car shoots forward and it is not good on the transmission or engine.
>
> When I am idling in traffic (1000 rpm), it will sometimes just shoot
up to
> 1500 rpm, then back down
>
> ??
>
>
> Something is giving this car gas, and it ain't my foot!
>
> All recommendations appreciated!
>
> Thanks!
>
> John

Tom108@webtv.net

Sounds like a stuck IAC valve (idle air control) or a vacuum leak,
intake manifold gasket or a disconnected or cracked vacuum line. You're
suckin air from somewhere.

c3p0000@rydellson.com

On 29 Apr 2005 10:37:35 -0700, eastwardbound2003@yahoo.com wrote:

>Sounds to me like there is a problem with your car's throttle body.
>Get it checked by an ASE certified mechanic asap. This damages the
>engine. 80% of engine wear happens the first 3 minutes of a cold start
>up because the engine has to start up with no oil coating the crank
>shaft as it has all settled to the bottom overnight. And also because
>the heat still needs to expand the cylindars. The rings are rubbing up
>against it metal to metal as the engine heats up and it's not good.
>
>
>
>

you spew BULLSHIT
the more the car revs the faster the oil gets to the part
ase is a joke

u are a foctard
check for vacume leak clean iac


hurc ast

lugnut

On Thu, 28 Apr 2005 21:15:47 GMT, "John"
<cpocpo@sbcglobal.net> wrote:

>Hello. I have a 1996 Mercury Sable, 65K miles, 24VOHC.
>
>I start the car in the morning. The RPM revs all the way to 3000, then it
>waivers between 2000 and 3000.
>After a long time, it MIGHT work its way down to normal idle (1000) and then
>it will jump from 1000-1400.
>
>Sometimes, it revs up and then just sits around 2000 rpm .
>
>All of this is in Park.
>
>I hate having to put in gear at 1500 rpm just to get to work, because the
>car shoots forward and it is not good on the transmission or engine.
>
>When I am idling in traffic (1000 rpm), it will sometimes just shoot up to
>1500 rpm, then back down
>
>??
>
>
>Something is giving this car gas, and it ain't my foot!
>
>All recommendations appreciated!
>
>Thanks!
>
>John
>


Since you say this is not a consistent problem RPM wise
where it always runs at the same RPM under identical
conditions, it seems logical that the problem is related to
a sensor or control component. A vacuum leak would usually
be the same under similar conditions. I have seen a bad TPS
cause this type idle problem. A dirty/defective IAC is also
a suspect. You best bet if this is an ongoing problem is
to have the system scanned and diagnosed by a dealer if you
have one you trust. Many insependent shops can do this but,
it seems to me that the best equipment is provided to Ford
dealers for this. The cost should be under $100USD and is
usually applied toward the repair if you so choose. With
the cost of parts as expensive as they are, it may make more
sense to at least get the diagnostic work done before you
start throwing parts at it. You may, in fact have multiple
problems which may need to be corrected.

Good luck
Lugnut