ladeeda

I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that go
into the engine block.

The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
The timing chain cover has to be removed right?

So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
right?

So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the hole
and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on with an
80 pound torque right?

I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and reattach
the oil pan.

OK seems easy enough.

 

Whitelightning

"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that
go
> into the engine block.
>
> The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
>
> So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> right?
>
> So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the
hole
> and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on
with an
> 80 pound torque right?
>
> I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and
reattach
> the oil pan.
>
> OK seems easy enough.

If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
and gear as well.
And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
it. sleeve is $5.

Whitelightning.

ladeeda

"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>
> "ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> > It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that
> go
> > into the engine block.
> >
> > The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> > The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
> >
> > So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> > right?
> >
> > So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the
> hole
> > and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on
> with an
> > 80 pound torque right?
> >
> > I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and
> reattach
> > the oil pan.
> >
> > OK seems easy enough.
>
> If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
> and gear as well.
> And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
> it. sleeve is $5.
>
> Whitelightning.

Thanks.

Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?

Tom Adkins

ladeeda wrote:
> "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>
>>"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
>>news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
>>>It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that
>>
>>go
>>
>>>into the engine block.
>>>
>>>The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
>>>The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
>>>
>>>So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
>>>right?
>>>
>>>So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the
>>
>>hole
>>
>>>and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on
>>
>>with an
>>
>>>80 pound torque right?
>>>
>>>I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and
>>
>>reattach
>>
>>>the oil pan.
>>>
>>>OK seems easy enough.
>>
>>If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
>>and gear as well.
>>And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
>>it. sleeve is $5.
>>
>>Whitelightning.
>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
> How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?
>
>
>
At 20K the chain and gears "should" be ok, as in nearly like new. There is a spec
for timing chain deflection but I don't know it offhand. With the timing cover off,
turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit (1/4 turn) to take up the slack. Grab the chain
between the gears to your left as you are looking at the motor. Move the chain side to
side. If more than about 1/8" of motion you will want to consider replacing it. More
than 1/4", replace it for sure. If the cam gear is all steel and the timing set is
that new, it's probably a non issue.
What happened to the threads? You're right about removing the timing cover, but how
did they get damaged in the first place. Those covers (assuming a 5.8L\351 engine)
develop corrosion in the through holes for 4 of the WP bolts. The corrosion spreads
and causes internal and external water leaks. If the assembler didn't clean the holes
or replace the cover you may have the problems occur again when you try to assemble
it. IIRC, the same thing hapens to the 460 timing covers, I'm not all that familiar
with them. On the small block Fords (302\351) it's common to replace an OEM timing
cover due to corrosion in the water pump bolt area when rebuilding. You may want to
consider a new timing cover if it wasn't done on your 20K rebuild. It could save
problems down the road.

ladeeda

"Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
> ladeeda wrote:
> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
> >
> >>"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> >>news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >>
> >>>I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> >>>It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes
that
> >>
> >>go
> >>
> >>>into the engine block.
> >>>
> >>>The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> >>>The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
> >>>
> >>>So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> >>>right?
> >>>
> >>>So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the
> >>
> >>hole
> >>
> >>>and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on
> >>
> >>with an
> >>
> >>>80 pound torque right?
> >>>
> >>>I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and
> >>
> >>reattach
> >>
> >>>the oil pan.
> >>>
> >>>OK seems easy enough.
> >>
> >>If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
> >>and gear as well.
> >>And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore
in
> >>it. sleeve is $5.
> >>
> >>Whitelightning.
> >
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
> > How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?
> >
> >
> >
> At 20K the chain and gears "should" be ok, as in nearly like new.
There is a spec
> for timing chain deflection but I don't know it offhand. With the
timing cover off,
> turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit (1/4 turn) to take up the slack.
Grab the chain
> between the gears to your left as you are looking at the motor. Move
the chain side to
> side. If more than about 1/8" of motion you will want to consider
replacing it. More
> than 1/4", replace it for sure. If the cam gear is all steel and the
timing set is
> that new, it's probably a non issue.
> What happened to the threads? You're right about removing the timing
cover, but how
> did they get damaged in the first place. Those covers (assuming a
5.8L\351 engine)

I thought it would be easier. I do not know what I am doing. But the
threads appear to be dirty full of dust and whatever and I was not aware
of putting too much torque on it while reassembling. The bolts were
pretty hard to take out in the first place. If the tap was an inch
longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop the
oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.
Maybe I could spray some PB blaster in there and try to clean the
remaining threads just enough to get this to hold together for a few
more miles so I can be better prepared.

> develop corrosion in the through holes for 4 of the WP bolts. The
corrosion spreads
> and causes internal and external water leaks. If the assembler didn't
clean the holes

Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.

> or replace the cover you may have the problems occur again when you
try to assemble
> it. IIRC, the same thing hapens to the 460 timing covers, I'm not all
that familiar
> with them. On the small block Fords (302\351) it's common to replace
an OEM timing
> cover due to corrosion in the water pump bolt area when rebuilding.
You may want to
> consider a new timing cover if it wasn't done on your 20K rebuild. It
could save
> problems down the road.

It looks ok. I think the holes may have been clogged with gasket
sealant.

But I am suspecting the waterpump was never replaced. The lifetime
should be longer on a waterpump.

Thanks

c

"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
news:drqcof01f88@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
>> ladeeda wrote:
>> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>> >

>
> Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
> shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
> because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.
>

That last statement leads me to question if you did indeed have a water pump
failure here...

Maybe it's just as simple as a stuck (closed) thermostat) or something as
serious as a head gasket leaking compression pressure into the coolant...

Most waterpump failures signal themselves with noise or leaks or both; not
the failure to circulate water.

Good Luck, Chuck

Hairy

If the tap was an inch
> longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop the
> oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.

Several times I have welded a bolt on the end of a tap to get extra length.
PB Blaster or some other solvent/lubricant should be used when chasing the
threads.

Dave

ladeeda

"c" <cwwwk@aol.com> wrote in message
news:rM4Ef.2293$MJ.1042@fed1read07...
>
> "ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> news:drqcof01f88@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> > news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
> >> ladeeda wrote:
> >> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
> >> >
>
> >
> > Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
> > shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
> > because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.
> >
>
> That last statement leads me to question if you did indeed have a
water pump
> failure here...

that would suck.

>
> Maybe it's just as simple as a stuck (closed) thermostat) or something
as

I replaced the thermostat

> serious as a head gasket leaking compression pressure into the
coolant...
>

Lets hope not since the engine was recently rebuilt.


> Most waterpump failures signal themselves with noise or leaks or both;
not
> the failure to circulate water.
>
> Good Luck, Chuck
>

You brought up some good points for me to check.

Like possible retirement.

thanks.

ladeeda

"Hairy" <hairy@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:44c71qF1fth6U1@individual.net...
>
> If the tap was an inch
> > longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop
the
> > oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.
>
> Several times I have welded a bolt on the end of a tap to get extra
length.
> PB Blaster or some other solvent/lubricant should be used when chasing
the
> threads.
>
> Dave
>
>

Sounds like a good idea.

Maybe I should learn how to weld. It would definately be a useful skill.

Right now I am trying to get the 15/16 bolt off of the crankshaft
pulley. To pull the harmonic balancer off. The crankshaft keeps spinning
and I cannot get a nail into the balancer to wedge it in. Maybe I should
use something else.

Or maybe just junk it.

the engine and the transmission is rebuilt. The tires are fairly new and
other things like a new starter.

I need a work vehicle to compete with illegal aliens.

Fordfan

ladeeda wrote:
>
> Right now I am trying to get the 15/16 bolt off of the crankshaft
> pulley. To pull the harmonic balancer off. The crankshaft keeps spinning
> and I cannot get a nail into the balancer to wedge it in. Maybe I should
> use something else.

Borrow or rent an electric impact wrench. Looks like a big electric
drill. It's similar to the air wrenches they use for removing the lug
nuts on a wheel. It will make quick work of getting the crank bolt off.
It applies a lot of torque with a pulsating action which will loosen the
bolt before the pulley can start rotating. If you use the electric
wrench to install the crank bolt, don't over do it. It's easy to strip
threads with these tools. Another possibility is holding the pulley with
a strap wrench. This is a lever handle with a flexible band which wraps
around the pulley to hold it. I prefer the electric impact wrench. You
can find other uses for it if you buy one.