Ulysses

While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power. The
temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more. It did
not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading around
2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A few
seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very short
amount of time.

The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too be
expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would have
caused too much pressure in the cooling system?

Thanks.

Big Shoe

When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the pressure
builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean through
the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are you
running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not only
lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I recall,
the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
degrees.

On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
<therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:

>While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power. The
>temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more. It did
>not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading around
>2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A few
>seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very short
>amount of time.
>
>The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too be
>expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would have
>caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
>
>Thanks.
>

Ulysses

No, it burst somewhere inside the radiator and poured out on the engine
side. The anti-freeze was changed a few thousand miles ago and was 50/50.
The radiator was professionally cleaned when the anti-freeze was changed.

What do you mean by pressure cap? Radiator cap? The one I have has no
release lever.

\
"Big Shoe" <j_shoe.removethis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:67gif1p3dpu3v18gjvg3f4l576so5ijt2n@4ax.com...
> When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the pressure
> builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean through
> the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are you
> running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not only
> lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I recall,
> the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
> degrees.
>
> On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>
> >While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power.
The
> >temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more. It
did
> >not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading
around
> >2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A few
> >seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very short
> >amount of time.
> >
> >The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too be
> >expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would have
> >caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
> >
> >Thanks.
> >

Big Shoe

Right, the radiator cap. Don't have any idea why it would build up so
much pressure the radiator broke. Maybe someone else has an idea.

On Wed, 10 Aug 2005 14:51:54 -0700, "Ulysses"
<therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:

>No, it burst somewhere inside the radiator and poured out on the engine
>side. The anti-freeze was changed a few thousand miles ago and was 50/50.
>The radiator was professionally cleaned when the anti-freeze was changed.
>
>What do you mean by pressure cap? Radiator cap? The one I have has no
>release lever.
>
>\
>"Big Shoe" <j_shoe.removethis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
>news:67gif1p3dpu3v18gjvg3f4l576so5ijt2n@4ax.com...
>> When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the pressure
>> builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean through
>> the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are you
>> running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not only
>> lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I recall,
>> the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
>> degrees.
>>
>> On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
>> <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
>>
>> >While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power.
>The
>> >temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more. It
>did
>> >not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading
>around
>> >2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A few
>> >seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very short
>> >amount of time.
>> >
>> >The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too be
>> >expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would have
>> >caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
>> >
>> >Thanks.
>> >
>

John Riggs

The radiator has a spring doesn't it? It is a pressure release..... no
lever needed.

"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11fktns3f0b68da@corp.supernews.com...
| No, it burst somewhere inside the radiator and poured out on the engine
| side. The anti-freeze was changed a few thousand miles ago and was 50/50.
| The radiator was professionally cleaned when the anti-freeze was changed.
|
| What do you mean by pressure cap? Radiator cap? The one I have has no
| release lever.
|
| \
| "Big Shoe" <j_shoe.removethis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
| news:67gif1p3dpu3v18gjvg3f4l576so5ijt2n@4ax.com...
| > When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the pressure
| > builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean through
| > the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are you
| > running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not only
| > lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I recall,
| > the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
| > degrees.
| >
| > On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
| > <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
| >
| > >While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power.
| The
| > >temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more.
It
| did
| > >not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading
| around
| > >2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A few
| > >seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very short
| > >amount of time.
| > >
| > >The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too
be
| > >expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would have
| > >caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
| > >
| > >Thanks.
| > >
|
|

Ulysses

"John Riggs" <johnri60626@netzero.net> wrote in message
news:1123725619.75e2384e578891865277e8424b87342c@bubbanews...
> The radiator has a spring doesn't it? It is a pressure release..... no
> lever needed.

I'm thinking you left out the word "cap." Yea, the cap has a spring so
supposedly when it gets to something like 13 psi the pressure will push the
spring and allow coolant to flow into the reservoir. Since the reservoir
was (is) full I guess the cap worked as it was supposed to.

I'm considering getting the $150 radiator from Auto Zone instead of the $450
OEM from Ford. Anyone have any opinions on this? I had bad luck with the
$18 heater cores and ended up getting the OEM from Ford but I can replace
the radiator 3 times for the money. Would I just be wasting my money with
the cheapie?

>
> "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:11fktns3f0b68da@corp.supernews.com...
> | No, it burst somewhere inside the radiator and poured out on the engine
> | side. The anti-freeze was changed a few thousand miles ago and was
50/50.
> | The radiator was professionally cleaned when the anti-freeze was
changed.
> |
> | What do you mean by pressure cap? Radiator cap? The one I have has no
> | release lever.
> |
> | \
> | "Big Shoe" <j_shoe.removethis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> | news:67gif1p3dpu3v18gjvg3f4l576so5ijt2n@4ax.com...
> | > When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the pressure
> | > builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean through
> | > the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are you
> | > running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not only
> | > lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I recall,
> | > the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
> | > degrees.
> | >
> | > On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
> | > <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
> | >
> | > >While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost power.
> | The
> | > >temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any more.
> It
> | did
> | > >not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was reading
> | around
> | > >2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A
few
> | > >seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very
short
> | > >amount of time.
> | > >
> | > >The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this too
> be
> | > >expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would
have
> | > >caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
> | > >
> | > >Thanks.
> | > >
> |
> |
>
>

John Riggs

Yeah, I did .... fingers hit the keys, but apparently not hard enough.
*^%$# cheap keyboard and piss poor proofreading on my part. Sorry.

You know, I can't say about the AZ radiators. ... I have to agree on the
cost savings / labor involved. It's worth a gamble in my book .... of
course you could also go to a salvage yard and pick one up too.


"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11fo0acc7t70uf0@corp.supernews.com...
|
| "John Riggs" <johnri60626@netzero.net> wrote in message
| news:1123725619.75e2384e578891865277e8424b87342c@bubbanews...
| > The radiator has a spring doesn't it? It is a pressure release.....
no
| > lever needed.
|
| I'm thinking you left out the word "cap." Yea, the cap has a spring so
| supposedly when it gets to something like 13 psi the pressure will push
the
| spring and allow coolant to flow into the reservoir. Since the reservoir
| was (is) full I guess the cap worked as it was supposed to.
|
| I'm considering getting the $150 radiator from Auto Zone instead of the
$450
| OEM from Ford. Anyone have any opinions on this? I had bad luck with the
| $18 heater cores and ended up getting the OEM from Ford but I can replace
| the radiator 3 times for the money. Would I just be wasting my money with
| the cheapie?
|
| >
| > "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
| > news:11fktns3f0b68da@corp.supernews.com...
| > | No, it burst somewhere inside the radiator and poured out on the
engine
| > | side. The anti-freeze was changed a few thousand miles ago and was
| 50/50.
| > | The radiator was professionally cleaned when the anti-freeze was
| changed.
| > |
| > | What do you mean by pressure cap? Radiator cap? The one I have has
no
| > | release lever.
| > |
| > | \
| > | "Big Shoe" <j_shoe.removethis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
| > | news:67gif1p3dpu3v18gjvg3f4l576so5ijt2n@4ax.com...
| > | > When you get the system extremely hot and then shut off, the
pressure
| > | > builds up. When you say dumped all its contents, do you mean
through
| > | > the pressure cap? How long since you changed anti-freeze and are
you
| > | > running 50% anti-freeze in the system? Note that anti-freeze not
only
| > | > lowers the freezing point, it raises the boiling point. As I
recall,
| > | > the boiling point of 50% mixture at 15 pounds pressure is around 290
| > | > degrees.
| > | >
| > | > On Tue, 9 Aug 2005 10:38:32 -0700, "Ulysses"
| > | > <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote:
| > | >
| > | > >While I was driving up a steep dirt hill in 4WD my '92 EB lost
power.
| > | The
| > | > >temp gauge was about 2/3 the way up. It just would not go any
more.
| > It
| > | did
| > | > >not feel like the transmission was slipping and the tach was
reading
| > | around
| > | > >2500-3000 rpm or so. I shut off the engine to let it cool off. A
| few
| > | > >seconds later the radiator dumped all of it's contents in a very
| short
| > | > >amount of time.
| > | > >
| > | > >The car has 280K miles on it with the original radiator. Is this
too
| > be
| > | > >expected or should I be looking for some other problem that would
| have
| > | > >caused too much pressure in the cooling system?
| > | > >
| > | > >Thanks.
| > | > >
| > |
| > |
| >
| >
|
|

To Arms!!

"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11fo0acc7t70uf0@corp.supernews.com...
>
> "John Riggs" <johnri60626@netzero.net> wrote in message
> news:1123725619.75e2384e578891865277e8424b87342c@bubbanews...
>> The radiator has a spring doesn't it? It is a pressure
>> release..... no
>> lever needed.
>
> I'm thinking you left out the word "cap." Yea, the cap has a spring
> so
> supposedly when it gets to something like 13 psi the pressure will
> push the
> spring and allow coolant to flow into the reservoir. Since the
> reservoir
> was (is) full I guess the cap worked as it was supposed to.
>
> I'm considering getting the $150 radiator from Auto Zone instead of
> the $450
> OEM from Ford. Anyone have any opinions on this? I had bad luck
> with the
> $18 heater cores and ended up getting the OEM from Ford but I can
> replace
> the radiator 3 times for the money. Would I just be wasting my
> money with
> the cheapie?
>
I changed out my OEM radiator with a Autozone made in China radiator.
It cost a bit under 200.00 and
came with a life time warranty. It went into my 96 V8 Explorer. The
only bitch was getting the condinsor off and then back on the
radiator. I also had a slight leak at one of the tranmission fittings
due to me not tightening it up tight enough. I had to remove the
fitting to make sure the o-ring was still in place and then used
teflon tape around the threads. If you use the Autozone radiator, be
sure to buy a different drain plug than come with the radiator. The
drain plug that came with the radiator was a cheap plastic screw in
plug that used a allen wrench fitting to remove it. This cheap
plastic screw in drain plug breaks easily (wonder how I know that?).
I'm glad I saved the money, but I sure hope I don't have to replace
the radiator again.



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Dan Gillespie

"Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:11fo0acc7t70uf0@corp.supernews.com...

> I'm considering getting the $150 radiator from Auto Zone instead of the
$450
> OEM from Ford. Anyone have any opinions on this?

I ordered mine through the internet from radiator warehouse or some such
(memory foggy--it's been four years) for around $150, shipping included.
When I took it out of the box, it had the same part number stamped into the
top as the original radiator I was replacing on my 1994. The only
difference from my stock radiator was that the top hadn't been painted
black. I believe it was made by Modine. Replacement was a cinch. I did
the same thing this past spring for my son's 1996 Sport. The original
radiators on both developed cracks in the tanks. Plastic just doesn't last
as long as the old brass type.

Dan

Ulysses

"Dan Gillespie" <fourgillespies@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:os8Le.1011$%K4.783@trnddc09...
> "Ulysses" <therealulysses@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:11fo0acc7t70uf0@corp.supernews.com...
>
> > I'm considering getting the $150 radiator from Auto Zone instead of the
> $450
> > OEM from Ford. Anyone have any opinions on this?
>
> I ordered mine through the internet from radiator warehouse or some such
> (memory foggy--it's been four years) for around $150, shipping included.
> When I took it out of the box, it had the same part number stamped into
the
> top as the original radiator I was replacing on my 1994. The only
> difference from my stock radiator was that the top hadn't been painted
> black. I believe it was made by Modine. Replacement was a cinch. I did
> the same thing this past spring for my son's 1996 Sport. The original
> radiators on both developed cracks in the tanks. Plastic just doesn't
last
> as long as the old brass type.
>
> Dan
>

Thanks Dan. I imagine there's a good chance that Auto Zone will be selling
the same one you bought. It was suggested to me that the problem with the
cheap heater core may have been due to electrolysis but the cheap one was
brass and the original was aluminum so I would think the aluminum, being the
ligher metal, would be the one to corrode.
>