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My alternator was still working but the bearings were going out and making
noises so I got another new one. I install it and now the car won`t
charge.I took the alternator back to the parts store and they checked it
and it was charging. So I buy a new voltage regulator and put it on with
the new alternator and it still does`nt charge. I used my 66 wiring
diagram and I`m pretty sure its hooked up right.My car was charging just
fine till I changed alternators.Where else can there be a problem?Is there
a detailed diagram of alternator and wiring on web?Thanks,Tony
_________________ http://ourworld.cs.com/blagintony/myhomepage/auto.html
1966 2+2 mustang,86-302 HO bored .030 over crank .010 under,
B-303 cam ,harland sharp roller rockers,
performer rpm intake, 750 edelbrock
ARF 165 heads,C-4 2500 stall,granada disc brakes, 85 duraspark ignition,
pony interior,the who,the doors,and ccr full blast on the stereo.GO CUBS
66bluefb wrote:
> My alternator was still working but the bearings were going out and making
> noises so I got another new one. I install it and now the car won`t
> charge.I took the alternator back to the parts store and they checked it
> and it was charging. So I buy a new voltage regulator and put it on with
> the new alternator and it still does`nt charge. I used my 66 wiring
> diagram and I`m pretty sure its hooked up right.My car was charging just
> fine till I changed alternators.Where else can there be a problem?Is there
> a detailed diagram of alternator and wiring on web?Thanks,Tony
Fortunatly, the charging circuit is pretty simple. It's difficult to screw it
up, but it can be done. Be sure and check carefully with your wiring diagram and
make sure you didn't mix up the connections.
Most likely, one of the wires or connections is corroded. Check the harness and
wires and look for brittle areas, corrosion, etc. The connections at the voltage
regulator are probably OK, since they are on opposite sides of the car.
--
..boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - Finally on the Road!
".boB" <bobcowan@access4less.nospam.net> wrote in message
news:438266ce$0$39396$ec3e2dad@news.usenetmonster.com...
> 66bluefb wrote:
>> My alternator was still working but the bearings were going out and
>> making
>> noises so I got another new one. I install it and now the car won`t
>> charge.I took the alternator back to the parts store and they checked it
>> and it was charging. So I buy a new voltage regulator and put it on with
>> the new alternator and it still does`nt charge. I used my 66 wiring
>> diagram and I`m pretty sure its hooked up right.My car was charging just
>> fine till I changed alternators.Where else can there be a problem?Is
>> there
>> a detailed diagram of alternator and wiring on web?Thanks,Tony
>
> Fortunatly, the charging circuit is pretty simple. It's difficult to
> screw it up, but it can be done. Be sure and check carefully with your
> wiring diagram and make sure you didn't mix up the connections.
> Most likely, one of the wires or connections is corroded. Check the
> harness and wires and look for brittle areas, corrosion, etc. The
> connections at the voltage regulator are probably OK, since they are on
> opposite sides of the car.
>
> --
> .boB
> 1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
> 2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
> 1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
> 1965 FFR Cobra - Finally on the Road!
>
one thing i've seen very often. When someone install a part like and
alternator on an older car , they often "clean up" everything they take
apart often repaint brackets, fender aprons and the like. When the old part
is painted and then the old hardware is used, the screws and bolts will not
"cut" through the new paint, often isolating a part electrically.
Check the bolts/screws that hold the regualtor to the fender apron make sure
there is a good ground, the same with any other bolts screws or wire ends
that were removed when changing ou the alternator. use a test light from the
positive side of the battery to various ground points to make sure you have
good contact
When I bought my Shelby, I had a starting problem. It wouldn't crank hot.
Had a heck of a time figuring it out. Replaced the battery, swapped out the
starter and solenoid with known good units, still wouldn't crank hot. I was
getting pretty frustrated when it dawned on me; The battery was mounted in
the trunk, and was grounded there also. I clipped a jumper cable to the
block and the export brace and it spun over fine. The problem was in the
ground strap on the right rear cylinder head.
Check your grounds!
"66bluefb" <blue1966fb@aol.com> wrote in message
news:c7bcb42dfb994f26ddaadc20950b876e@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> My alternator was still working but the bearings were going out and making
> noises so I got another new one. I install it and now the car won`t
> charge.I took the alternator back to the parts store and they checked it
> and it was charging. So I buy a new voltage regulator and put it on with
> the new alternator and it still does`nt charge. I used my 66 wiring
> diagram and I`m pretty sure its hooked up right.My car was charging just
> fine till I changed alternators.Where else can there be a problem?Is there
> a detailed diagram of alternator and wiring on web?Thanks,Tony
> _________________
> http://ourworld.cs.com/blagintony/myhomepage/auto.html
> 1966 2+2 mustang,86-302 HO bored .030 over crank .010 under,
> B-303 cam ,harland sharp roller rockers,
> performer rpm intake, 750 edelbrock
> ARF 165 heads,C-4 2500 stall,granada disc brakes, 85 duraspark ignition,
> pony interior,the who,the doors,and ccr full blast on the stereo.GO CUBS
>
My 66 and 67 Mustang both show no charge at the panel meter yet they both
show approx 15 volts at the battery.Both cars have had the engine
compartment charging cable replaced.It turns out that the replacement
cables do not have the added resistance required as a meter shunt in the
wire from the alternator to the solenoid to cause the charge/discharge meter
to indicate.Could this be your problem???There has to be approx .05 ohms
resistance in this wire.
KenG
"Bill" <wjh1nospam@yvn.com> wrote in message
news:RYednYPubf4J_x7eRVn-rA@yvn.com...
> When I bought my Shelby, I had a starting problem. It wouldn't crank hot.
> Had a heck of a time figuring it out. Replaced the battery, swapped out
> the starter and solenoid with known good units, still wouldn't crank hot.
> I was getting pretty frustrated when it dawned on me; The battery was
> mounted in the trunk, and was grounded there also. I clipped a jumper
> cable to the block and the export brace and it spun over fine. The problem
> was in the ground strap on the right rear cylinder head.
> Check your grounds!
>
>
> "66bluefb" <blue1966fb@aol.com> wrote in message
> news:c7bcb42dfb994f26ddaadc20950b876e@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
>> My alternator was still working but the bearings were going out and
>> making
>> noises so I got another new one. I install it and now the car won`t
>> charge.I took the alternator back to the parts store and they checked it
>> and it was charging. So I buy a new voltage regulator and put it on with
>> the new alternator and it still does`nt charge. I used my 66 wiring
>> diagram and I`m pretty sure its hooked up right.My car was charging just
>> fine till I changed alternators.Where else can there be a problem?Is
>> there
>> a detailed diagram of alternator and wiring on web?Thanks,Tony
>> _________________
>> http://ourworld.cs.com/blagintony/myhomepage/auto.html
>> 1966 2+2 mustang,86-302 HO bored .030 over crank .010 under,
>> B-303 cam ,harland sharp roller rockers,
>> performer rpm intake, 750 edelbrock
>> ARF 165 heads,C-4 2500 stall,granada disc brakes, 85 duraspark ignition,
>> pony interior,the who,the doors,and ccr full blast on the stereo.GO CUBS
>>
>
>
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