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Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for about
15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I restarted, the
idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is very sluggish and
rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above 1500. I went back, replaced
all plug wires (the ones that were in there looked original (had a date on
them of 1993) and put all new plugs in again. I still get the same
indications. I checked for loose vacuum lines and connections, only one was
vacuum on the EGR valve. I trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see
the egr valve diaphram moving open and closed through the little openings in
it. It idles in park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is
rough.
Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down shift
beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but WOT doesn't
get any more down shifts.
I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I shut
it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather not take
it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
convertor?
> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>
> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>
> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>
>
> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
> convertor?
>
First get the codes read out.
Is Check engine on?
Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
>> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
>> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
>> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
>> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
>> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
>> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
>> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
>> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
>> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>>
>> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
>> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
>> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>>
>> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
>> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
>> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>>
>>
>> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
>> convertor?
>>
>
> First get the codes read out.
>
> Is Check engine on?
>
> Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
> Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
>
>
Also.. smell for gas in exhaust... also indications of leaky Fuel press
regulator
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
"Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message
news:Xns974F6D0786DDApettyfogery@207.115.17.102...
> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote:
>
>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
>> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
>> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
>> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
>> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
>> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
>> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
>> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
>> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
>> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>>
>> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
>> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
>> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>>
>> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
>> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
>> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>>
>>
>> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
>> convertor?
>>
>
> First get the codes read out.
>
> Is Check engine on?
>
> Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
> Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
>
No check engine light. No smell of gas in the exhaust (re your next post).
Will look up the TPS and see what I can find out, although I wont know what
to do to check it out. May end up taking it in to get codes read.... will
just have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic fee.
"Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote in message
news:mawzf.59182$QW2.52773@dukeread08...
>
> "Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message
> news:Xns974F6D0786DDApettyfogery@207.115.17.102...
>> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote:
>>
>>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
>>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
>>> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
>>> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
>>> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
>>> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
>>> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
>>> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
>>> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
>>> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
>>> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>>>
>>> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
>>> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
>>> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>>>
>>> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
>>> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
>>> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>>>
>>>
>>> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
>>> convertor?
>>>
>>
>> First get the codes read out.
>>
>> Is Check engine on?
>>
>> Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
>> Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
>>
>
> No check engine light. No smell of gas in the exhaust (re your next post).
> Will look up the TPS and see what I can find out, although I wont know
> what to do to check it out. May end up taking it in to get codes read....
> will just have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic fee.
>
> Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.
>
> Gerry
>Based upon your description of the symptoms, my guess would be you got an
>EGR problem. A car with a leaky EGR valve will idle and run like crap until
>you get around 2000 rpm and then it will smooth out. Just because you see
>the EGR diaphragm moving doesn't mean that the valve is closing all the
>way. I would pull the valve and check it out.
"CCTGENE" <cctgene@att.net> wrote in message
news:3Ezzf.498978$zb5.335105@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>
> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote in message
> news:mawzf.59182$QW2.52773@dukeread08...
>>
>> "Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message
>> news:Xns974F6D0786DDApettyfogery@207.115.17.102...
>>> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
>>>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
>>>> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
>>>> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
>>>> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
>>>> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
>>>> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
>>>> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
>>>> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
>>>> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
>>>> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>>>>
>>>> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
>>>> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
>>>> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>>>>
>>>> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
>>>> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
>>>> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
>>>> convertor?
>>>>
>>>
>>> First get the codes read out.
>>>
>>> Is Check engine on?
>>>
>>> Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
>>> Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
>>>
>>
>> No check engine light. No smell of gas in the exhaust (re your next
>> post). Will look up the TPS and see what I can find out, although I wont
>> know what to do to check it out. May end up taking it in to get codes
>> read.... will just have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic
>> fee.
>>
>> Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.
>>
>> Gerry
>>Based upon your description of the symptoms, my guess would be you got an
>>EGR problem. A car with a leaky EGR valve will idle and run like crap
>>until you get around 2000 rpm and then it will smooth out. Just because
>>you see the EGR diaphragm moving doesn't mean that the valve is closing
>>all the way. I would pull the valve and check it out.
>
Thanks. When I pull it, what am I looking for? I pulled the sensor off the
end of it and looked inside, but all I can see is what looks like a diapram
and a spring.
"Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote in message
news:ztYzf.67415$QW2.61305@dukeread08...
>
> "CCTGENE" <cctgene@att.net> wrote in message
> news:3Ezzf.498978$zb5.335105@bgtnsc04-news.ops.worldnet.att.net...
>>
>> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote in message
>> news:mawzf.59182$QW2.52773@dukeread08...
>>>
>>> "Backyard Mechanic" <pettyfog@yaywho.com> wrote in message
>>> news:Xns974F6D0786DDApettyfogery@207.115.17.102...
>>>> "Gerry Pierce" <gpierce123@msn.com> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Put new plugs in the day before yesterday. Got done, car ran good for
>>>>> about 15-20 miles. Stopped for a minute to wait on my son, when I
>>>>> restarted, the idle was very rough. When you step on the gas, it is
>>>>> very sluggish and rough, then smooths out as the rpms climb above
>>>>> 1500. I went back, replaced all plug wires (the ones that were in
>>>>> there looked original (had a date on them of 1993) and put all new
>>>>> plugs in again. I still get the same indications. I checked for loose
>>>>> vacuum lines and connections, only one was vacuum on the EGR valve. I
>>>>> trimmed the end, it is now tight and I can see the egr valve diaphram
>>>>> moving open and closed through the little openings in it. It idles in
>>>>> park ok (not as smooth as before) but once in drive, it is rough.
>>>>>
>>>>> Also, maybe related, maybe not. Auto tranny seems sluggish to down
>>>>> shift beyond the first time (step on the gas, it does down 1 gear, but
>>>>> WOT doesn't get any more down shifts.
>>>>>
>>>>> I am at a loss on where to go now. Car ran good up to the point that I
>>>>> shut it off that time. I am a little short on funds, so I would rather
>>>>> not take it into the dealer yet. Any ideas on what to try?
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> Second question, what are the indications of a bad/going bad catalytic
>>>>> convertor?
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>> First get the codes read out.
>>>>
>>>> Is Check engine on?
>>>>
>>>> Second.... the age of car and symptoms point to possible bad Throttle
>>>> Position Sensor...that's a stab at it, of course
>>>>
>>>
>>> No check engine light. No smell of gas in the exhaust (re your next
>>> post). Will look up the TPS and see what I can find out, although I wont
>>> know what to do to check it out. May end up taking it in to get codes
>>> read.... will just have to bite the bullet and pay for the diagnostic
>>> fee.
>>>
>>> Thanks for the input, I really appreciate it.
>>>
>>> Gerry
>>>Based upon your description of the symptoms, my guess would be you got an
>>>EGR problem. A car with a leaky EGR valve will idle and run like crap
>>>until you get around 2000 rpm and then it will smooth out. Just because
>>>you see the EGR diaphragm moving doesn't mean that the valve is closing
>>>all the way. I would pull the valve and check it out.
>>
>
> Thanks. When I pull it, what am I looking for? I pulled the sensor off
> the end of it and looked inside, but all I can see is what looks like a
> diapram and a spring.
>
> Gerry
>
I don't know what specific EGR type you have on your car but I think in
principal there all the same. A vacuum is applied and the valve opens remove
the vacuum and the valve closes. What happens is the inside of the valve
gets coated with carbon and the pintle sticks or no longer seats completely.
A simple test you can do is simply blow through it. You'll have to look at
it to see where the exhaust enters and where it exits when the valve is
open. If you can blow air through it without any vacuum applied then it's
leaking. Oh, by the way when you do this your going to get a dirty mouth!
Linear Mode
