Re: 99 'Stang brakes
> On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:11:54 -0600, Hawk <taoHawk2003@yahoo.com>
>>>Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
>>>I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
>>>installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
>>>off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
>>>what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
>>>doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?
>>>I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
>>>Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
>>>bleed. Am I missing something?
>>You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA.
>> I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons
>>need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.
>>You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the
>>pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.
> Actually, it's better to use the bleeder nut. You don't really want to
> push dirty brake fluid back into your brake lines. Unless you just
> flushed the line sI Would open the bleeder nut.
I guess for me it depends on how old the car is...if the car is only a
few years old I won't bother bleeding the system if I don't have to.
I'm pretty easy on the brakes and don't ever cook them, so the fluid
tends to look fine after only a few years. My car is stored winters, so
that doesn't hurt either.
On the other hand, it's not a bad idea to keep the bleeder nuts lubed up
and give them a turn once in a while to keep them from freezing up.
Especially if the vehicle is driven in the snow and slop.