Carl

Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?

I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
bleed. Am I missing something?

Thanks,

Carl

Hawk

Carl wrote:
> Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
> I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
> installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
> off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
> what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
> doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?
>
> I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
> Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
> bleed. Am I missing something?
>
> Thanks,
>
> Carl
>
>

You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA.
I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons
need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.

You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the
pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.

Also...most service manuals will tell you to remove the spring on the
caliper for the emergency brake cable. Don't ever take it off if you
don't have to. They can be a real PITA to get back on...


(*>

RT

On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:11:54 -0600, Hawk <taoHawk2003@yahoo.com>
wrote:

>Carl wrote:
>> Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
>> I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
>> installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
>> off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
>> what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
>> doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?
>>
>> I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
>> Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
>> bleed. Am I missing something?
>>
>> Thanks,
>>
>> Carl
>>
>>
>
>You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA.
> I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons
>need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.
>
>You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the
>pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.

Actually, it's better to use the bleeder nut. You don't really want to
push dirty brake fluid back into your brake lines. Unless you just
flushed the line sI Would open the bleeder nut.

>
>Also...most service manuals will tell you to remove the spring on the
>caliper for the emergency brake cable. Don't ever take it off if you
>don't have to. They can be a real PITA to get back on...

good advice !

cprice@here.com

RT wrote:

> On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:11:54 -0600, Hawk <taoHawk2003@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
>>>I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
>>>installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
>>>off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
>>>what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
>>>doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?
>>>
>>>I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
>>>Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
>>>bleed. Am I missing something?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA.
>> I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons
>>need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.
>>
>>You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the
>>pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.
>
>
> Actually, it's better to use the bleeder nut. You don't really want to
> push dirty brake fluid back into your brake lines. Unless you just
> flushed the line sI Would open the bleeder nut.
>
>
>>Also...most service manuals will tell you to remove the spring on the
>>caliper for the emergency brake cable. Don't ever take it off if you
>>don't have to. They can be a real PITA to get back on...
>
>
> good advice !


While you are doing your brakes, flush your entire brake system with
new fluid. With a performance braking system, it can't hurt to have new
fluid in the lines. I recommend the ford heavy duty dot 3 fluid (ford
dealer parts counter). I know a couple of local circle track and solo II
guys that swear by it.

Ritz

cprice@here.com wrote:
> While you are doing your brakes, flush your entire brake system with
> new fluid. With a performance braking system, it can't hurt to have new
> fluid in the lines. I recommend the ford heavy duty dot 3 fluid (ford
> dealer parts counter). I know a couple of local circle track and solo II
> guys that swear by it.


Flushing the brake fluid should be in everyone's maintenance schedule
every other year. A good high performance brake fluid that won't break
the bank is Valvoline Synthetic brake fluid. It's compatible with both
DOT3 and DOT4, is widely available, and has better performance
characteristics that most of the cheap stuff you find in the parts
stores or at your stealership. 8-) I normally use a Motive power
bleeder. That's the best $50 I ever spent.

Cheers,

Hawk

RT wrote:
> On Thu, 05 Jan 2006 12:11:54 -0600, Hawk <taoHawk2003@yahoo.com>
> wrote:
>
>
>>Carl wrote:
>>
>>>Looking up the stuff to get the rotors, pads, etc for my 4 corner brake job.
>>>I've got 4 wheel discs. I've been told I'll need a special tool for the
>>>installation/removal of the rotor, but looking at it, it should just slip
>>>off? Also, where can I get the special tool for the rear brake calipers,
>>>what is it called, and how much will it cost me? Anything non-standard about
>>>doing the brakes on the 'stang? Are the rear rotors "top-hat" rotors?
>>>
>>>I'm guessing it's pretty straight forward. Remove wheel, caliper, rotor.
>>>Open bleeder, push piston back in, install new pads and rotor, re-install,
>>>bleed. Am I missing something?
>>>
>>>Thanks,
>>>
>>>Carl
>>>
>>>
>>
>>You can get the tool for pushing in the rear caliper pistons from NAPA.
>> I bought one there for about $10. If I recall correctly...the pistons
>>need to be rotated clockwise while you are pushing them in.
>>
>>You don't need to crack the bleeder nut when pushing in the
>>pistons...just take the cap off the master cylinder.
>
>
> Actually, it's better to use the bleeder nut. You don't really want to
> push dirty brake fluid back into your brake lines. Unless you just
> flushed the line sI Would open the bleeder nut.
>

I guess for me it depends on how old the car is...if the car is only a
few years old I won't bother bleeding the system if I don't have to.
I'm pretty easy on the brakes and don't ever cook them, so the fluid
tends to look fine after only a few years. My car is stored winters, so
that doesn't hurt either.


On the other hand, it's not a bad idea to keep the bleeder nuts lubed up
and give them a turn once in a while to keep them from freezing up.
Especially if the vehicle is driven in the snow and slop.


(*>

Hairy

>
> I guess for me it depends on how old the car is...if the car is only a
> few years old I won't bother bleeding the system if I don't have to.
> I'm pretty easy on the brakes and don't ever cook them, so the fluid >
tends to look fine after only a few years.

If you wait until the fluid doesn't look "fine", you've waited too long.
Corrosion starts before the fluid starts to turn.
A brake fluid flush every two years is a good plan.

Dave