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Old 09-08-2005, 18:01   #1 (permalink)
Gumby619
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Brake question


I am finally getting the parts to rebuild the front brakes on 'Elvira' and
was wondering if anyone can tell me the approximate difficulty of replacing
the stock POS master cylinder with a 2 bowl one. I am pretty mechanically
inclined as I have owned pos cars since I was 16 and always did my own
repairs. Just an estimate of the time involved would really help.

Gumby619

"Drive it, just ****ing drive it"


--
For every action there is an equal and opposite Government program


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Old 09-08-2005, 18:01   #2 (permalink)
Gumby619
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Re: Brake question

oh yeah, in case ya'll forgot me its a 65 coupe


"Gumby619" <numya@bidness.com> wrote in message
news:vu4Ue.9214$sx2.1567@fed1read02...
>
> I am finally getting the parts to rebuild the front brakes on 'Elvira' and
> was wondering if anyone can tell me the approximate difficulty of
> replacing the stock POS master cylinder with a 2 bowl one. I am pretty
> mechanically inclined as I have owned pos cars since I was 16 and always
> did my own repairs. Just an estimate of the time involved would really
> help.
>
> Gumby619
>
> "Drive it, just ****ing drive it"
>
>
> --
> For every action there is an equal and opposite Government program
>



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Old 09-09-2005, 12:01   #3 (permalink)
.boB
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Re: Brake question

Gumby619 wrote:
> I am finally getting the parts to rebuild the front brakes on 'Elvira' and
> was wondering if anyone can tell me the approximate difficulty of replacing
> the stock POS master cylinder with a 2 bowl one. I am pretty mechanically
> inclined as I have owned pos cars since I was 16 and always did my own
> repairs. Just an estimate of the time involved would really help.
>
> Gumby619
>
> "Drive it, just ****ing drive it"
>
>

I replaced the front brakes on my '65 with the kit from SSBC. The discs were
pretty simple. I did have to cut off one of the 40 year old backing plate bolts
because it rounded off. I also have to cut off the steel brake lines and make new
ones. Also, not a big deal and I expected to do it. I eliminated the proportioning
valve, and placed an in-line brake valve for the rears instead.
However, the master cylinder was another story. I replaced factory power with a
dual bowl power. What a nightmare. Trying to get to those nuts behind the MC was
the biggest PITA. I had to make a special wrench to get back there. I could only
turn about 1/8th of a turn at a time. And I couldn't see them, so I had to do it by
feel only.
A non-power would be easy. But the booster was just a nightmare.

--
..boB
1997 HD FXDWG - Turbocharged!
2001 Dodge Dakota QC 5.9/4x4/3.92
1966 Mustang Coupe - Daily Driver
1965 FFR Cobra - Finally on the Road!

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Old 09-09-2005, 14:01   #4 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Re: Brake question

On my kids' '65 fb I used the Trans Am Racing kit to swap out the jelly
jar 4 drum setup for a 2-pot pdb. The prob with a 2-pot and a booster
in a '65-'66 is the lack of space between the firewall and the shock
tower. TA addresses it with a CNC spacer between the booster and the
firewall. NPD and others have a booster with a sheet metal bracket
which apparently does the same thing.

With the TA spacer, first you mount the booster to the spacer then you
thread four studs into the spacer. These studs go through the same
holes as the pedal support uses. The pedal support attaches to the
firewall with bolts from the engine side that thread into welded
inserts on the support. The TA studs go through these threaded inserts
and are retained with nuts from the passenger side. I had to run a
drill bit through the threaded inserts to get the studs through. I did
not destroy the threads; just increased the inside diameter a bit. The
nuts required a U-joint and two 12" extensions to get to them.

The TA kit uses the SSBC 4-piston disc and caliper assemblies, very OE
looking.

I used the prop valve that came with the kit. I am unhappy with the
pedal firmness. I intend to put a 10 psi residual valve into the rear
circuit to see if that will help. Check Master Power Brakes web site
-- they say NEVER to use a prop valve.

180 Out

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