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I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm it
starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might be
the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do you
think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something else.
PLEASE HELP!!
Try an MSD box.Do these have duraspark or computor? Sounds ignition
related.Oughta switch over to an earlier duraspark distributor and an MSD
box.
"stang85_5" <stang85_5@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:df7ad303215025082845356ee4b9b6da@localhost.talkaboutautos.com...
> I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm
it
> starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
> the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
> cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might be
> the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
> and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do you
> think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something else.
> PLEASE HELP!!
>
stang85_5 wrote:
> I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm it
> starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
> the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
> cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might be
> the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
> and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do you
> think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something else.
> PLEASE HELP!!
>
You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed
enrichment. How is the accel. pump & power valve?
"trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
news:1sOdnYs5MPRxuwjeRVn-vA@usadatanet.net...
> stang85_5 wrote:
>> I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm
>> it
>> starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
>> the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
>> cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might
>> be
>> the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
>> and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do
>> you
>> think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something
>> else.
>> PLEASE HELP!!
>
> You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed enrichment.
> How is the accel. pump & power valve?
>
> Rob
If the car starts and run fine when cool (had to tell from post) but starts
to perform poorly when warm to hot, there are several things to check:
1)thermal breakdown of original ford coil
2)excessive heat from from of motor boiling fuel in metal line at front of
motor.
3)thermostat not opening properly
4) EGR malfunction (bad gaskets or erosion of plate on back of motor)
the 85 4 bbl cars no the early CFI cars have no computer or brain box. just
simple duraspark coil and ignition module. Some of these vehicles have a hot
idle compensator ( small module on a vacuum line going to carb) that will
stick and make and engine run rich (black or gray smoke that makes eyes
water)
power valve and accelerator pump (small rubber diaphragm in front of carb)
will cause a stumble when accelerating, but car will run smooth at idle.
one last thing to check as some states/regions change fuel mixtures as
cool/cold weather approaches the small viton seal on the float bowl needle
and seat have been known to break down and either stick and starve the
engine or disappear and not seal thereby causing a rich condition.
>
> "trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
> news:1sOdnYs5MPRxuwjeRVn-vA@usadatanet.net...
>> stang85_5 wrote:
>>> I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting
>>> warm it
>>> starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I
>>> press on the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel
>>> filter, and cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my
>>> work said it might be
>>> the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a
>>> week and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive
>>> it. Do you
>>> think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something
>>> else.
>>> PLEASE HELP!!
>>
>> You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed
>> enrichment. How is the accel. pump & power valve?
>>
>> Rob
>
> If the car starts and run fine when cool (had to tell from post) but
> starts to perform poorly when warm to hot, there are several things to
> check: 1)thermal breakdown of original ford coil
> 2)excessive heat from from of motor boiling fuel in metal line at
> front of motor.
> 3)thermostat not opening properly
> 4) EGR malfunction (bad gaskets or erosion of plate on back of motor)
>
> the 85 4 bbl cars no the early CFI cars have no computer or brain box.
> just simple duraspark coil and ignition module. Some of these vehicles
> have a hot idle compensator ( small module on a vacuum line going to
> carb) that will stick and make and engine run rich (black or gray
> smoke that makes eyes water)
>
> power valve and accelerator pump (small rubber diaphragm in front of
> carb) will cause a stumble when accelerating, but car will run smooth
> at idle.
>
> one last thing to check as some states/regions change fuel mixtures as
> cool/cold weather approaches the small viton seal on the float bowl
> needle and seat have been known to break down and either stick and
> starve the engine or disappear and not seal thereby causing a rich
> condition.
>
>
>
Replace the coil... they fail sooner or later, anyway; and it just MIGHT
be the problem.
But the pointers to the carb should not be ignored, either.
--
Yeh, I'm a Krusty old Geezer, putting up with my 'smartass' is the price
you pay..DEAL with it!
> "trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
> news:1sOdnYs5MPRxuwjeRVn-vA@usadatanet.net...
>
>>stang85_5 wrote:
>>
>>>I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting warm
>>>it
>>>starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press on
>>>the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
>>>cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might
>>>be
>>>the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a week
>>>and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do
>>>you
>>>think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something
>>>else.
>>>PLEASE HELP!!
>>
>>You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed enrichment.
>>How is the accel. pump & power valve?
>>
>>Rob
>
>
> If the car starts and run fine when cool (had to tell from post) but starts
> to perform poorly when warm to hot, there are several things to check:
> 1)thermal breakdown of original ford coil
Maybe...
> 2)excessive heat from from of motor boiling fuel in metal line at front of
> motor.
Probably not...
> 3)thermostat not opening properly
Doubt it...
> 4) EGR malfunction (bad gaskets or erosion of plate on back of motor)
Doubt it...
>
> the 85 4 bbl cars no the early CFI cars have no computer or brain box. just
> simple duraspark coil and ignition module.
No, they are EEC IV, Duraspark II on the CFI, MCU (EEC II) & Duraspark
II on the carbed.
Some of these vehicles have a hot
> idle compensator ( small module on a vacuum line going to carb) that will
> stick and make and engine run rich (black or gray smoke that makes eyes
> water)
>
> power valve and accelerator pump (small rubber diaphragm in front of carb)
> will cause a stumble when accelerating, but car will run smooth at idle.
Most likely. When the choke comes off during warm up, the problem
appears. Power valve / accelerator pump.
>
> one last thing to check as some states/regions change fuel mixtures as
> cool/cold weather approaches the small viton seal on the float bowl needle
> and seat have been known to break down and either stick and starve the
> engine or disappear and not seal thereby causing a rich condition.
Maybe, probably overlooked the float when he "cleaned" the carb.
Certainly sounds like a starvation issue though.
scott and barb wrote:
> Try an MSD box.Do these have duraspark or computor? Sounds ignition
> related.Oughta switch over to an earlier duraspark distributor and an MSD
> box.
Please, do not even consider thinking about spending this money
until you actually figure out what the problem really is....
--
"Usenet is like a herd of performing elephants with diarrhea -- massive,
difficult to redirect, awe-inspiring, entertaining, and a source of
mind-boggling amounts of excrement when you least expect it."
So is this system duraspark 2?Those old boxes would die with regularity, and
newer cheapy replacements were not made to hold up as well as original ford
parts.Run 12 volts to them and they die real fast
"trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
news:KMydndzamaAzAAjenZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@usadatanet.net...
> walt peifer wrote:
>
> > "trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
> > news:1sOdnYs5MPRxuwjeRVn-vA@usadatanet.net...
> >
> >>stang85_5 wrote:
> >>
> >>>I have a 1985 mustang gt H.O. 4bbl and every time it starts getting
warm
> >>>it
> >>>starts to cut out really bad and wants to die especially when I press
on
> >>>the gas. I've replaced the fuel pump, plugs and wires, fuel filter, and
> >>>cleaned the carb but nothing works. A mechanic at my work said it might
> >>>be
> >>>the ignition module so i replaced that and it got better for about a
week
> >>>and then started again. It seems to get worse each time I drive it. Do
> >>>you
> >>>think the problem is in the wiring to my ignition or is it something
> >>>else.
> >>>PLEASE HELP!!
> >>
> >>You've mentioned several carb issues - but not once addressed
enrichment.
> >>How is the accel. pump & power valve?
> >>
> >>Rob
> >
> >
> > If the car starts and run fine when cool (had to tell from post) but
starts
> > to perform poorly when warm to hot, there are several things to check:
> > 1)thermal breakdown of original ford coil
>
> Maybe...
>
> > 2)excessive heat from from of motor boiling fuel in metal line at front
of
> > motor.
>
> Probably not...
>
> > 3)thermostat not opening properly
>
> Doubt it...
>
> > 4) EGR malfunction (bad gaskets or erosion of plate on back of motor)
>
> Doubt it...
> >
> > the 85 4 bbl cars no the early CFI cars have no computer or brain box.
just
> > simple duraspark coil and ignition module.
>
> No, they are EEC IV, Duraspark II on the CFI, MCU (EEC II) & Duraspark
> II on the carbed.
>
> Some of these vehicles have a hot
> > idle compensator ( small module on a vacuum line going to carb) that
will
> > stick and make and engine run rich (black or gray smoke that makes eyes
> > water)
> >
> > power valve and accelerator pump (small rubber diaphragm in front of
carb)
> > will cause a stumble when accelerating, but car will run smooth at idle.
>
> Most likely. When the choke comes off during warm up, the problem
> appears. Power valve / accelerator pump.
> >
> > one last thing to check as some states/regions change fuel mixtures as
> > cool/cold weather approaches the small viton seal on the float bowl
needle
> > and seat have been known to break down and either stick and starve the
> > engine or disappear and not seal thereby causing a rich condition.
>
> Maybe, probably overlooked the float when he "cleaned" the carb.
> Certainly sounds like a starvation issue though.
>
> Rob
>
>
scott and barb wrote:
> So is this system duraspark 2?Those old boxes would die with regularity, and
> newer cheapy replacements were not made to hold up as well as original ford
> parts.Run 12 volts to them and they die real fast
> "trainfan1" <lmsearing@usdatanet.net> wrote in message
> news:KMydndzamaAzAAjenZ2dnUVZ_vudnZ2d@usadatanet.net...
>
Linear Mode
