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Old 05-04-2005, 14:01   #1 (permalink)
pawn
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Need help diagnosing clutch (?) problems.

Hi:

My '65 mustang has a 4 speed manual tranny. The engine is a 289.
Neither are original to the car, in fact, I believe my father said he
took the tranny out of an old Granada (don't hold me to it).

Anyway, recently it's become difficult to change gears. The clutch
pedal must be fully depressed to switch gears, particularly into first
from a stop.

Furthermore, when the car is cold, their is a scraping sound when the
clutch is fully depressed (sometimes after warming up too).

The car has seen (wild guess) maybe 20k miles since being restored in
the mid eighties, I have no idea what condition the clutch or tranny was
in at the time.

Any ideas on how bad a problem I have? It would be nice if it was
something I could fix myself (linkage, cable, adjustment, etc.), but I
will take it to a mechanic (and worry constantly while out of my
possession) if more involved clutch work is required. I would
appreciate some idea about what is wrong in advance.

Thanks.

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Old 05-04-2005, 15:01   #2 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Re: Need help diagnosing clutch (?) problems.

First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
clutch pedal to the equalizer bar. The under-hood end of this rod is
threaded. It goes through a hole in a block that pivots on the end of
the equalizer bar. There should be a nut on each side of this block.
Reach in there and see if you can jiggle the equalizer bar. If so,
then back off the lock nut (the one nearest the tip of the rod) and
turn the other nut counter clockwise until you've taken all the slack
out. Don't go too far. You don't want to set it too tight, or the
throwout bearing will be constantly pressing on the pressure plate and
will burn out. Tighten the lock nut, and see if your gear selection
problem is gone. If it's not, and you've run out of adjustment on the
rod, then it's probably time for a new clutch.

The scraping sound is the throwout bearing. If this sound doesn't go
away after the clutch adjustment, it's time to replace the throwout
bearing. Because this requires removal of the drive shaft, shifter,
tranny, and bell housing, you ought to replace the clutch as long as
you're in there. A cheapie clutch kit, including a new throwout
bearing, runs about $180. The good stuff -- Centerforce -- is about a
hundred more.

7

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Old 05-04-2005, 17:01   #3 (permalink)
sanfordm44356@syahoo.com
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Re: Need help diagnosing clutch (?) problems.

On 4 May 2005 13:47:24 -0700, one80out@hotmail.com wrote:

>First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
>sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
>clutch pedal to the equalizer bar. The under-hood end of this rod is
>threaded. It goes through a hole in a block that pivots on the end of
>the equalizer bar. There should be a nut on each side of this block.
>Reach in there and see if you can jiggle the equalizer bar. If so,
>then back off the lock nut (the one nearest the tip of the rod) and
>turn the other nut counter clockwise until you've taken all the slack
>out. Don't go too far. You don't want to set it too tight, or the
>throwout bearing will be constantly pressing on the pressure plate and
>will burn out. Tighten the lock nut, and see if your gear selection
>problem is gone. If it's not, and you've run out of adjustment on the
>rod, then it's probably time for a new clutch.
>
>The scraping sound is the throwout bearing. If this sound doesn't go
>away after the clutch adjustment, it's time to replace the throwout
>bearing. Because this requires removal of the drive shaft, shifter,
>tranny, and bell housing, you ought to replace the clutch as long as
>you're in there. A cheapie clutch kit, including a new throwout
>bearing, runs about $180. The good stuff -- Centerforce -- is about a
>hundred more.
>
>7



bewarned
cheap aftermarket clutches
have problems brake washer around the hub
reamans ten to brakes and rattle
i always advise people when the buy cheap clutch kits
that if it makes noise ya pay me again

hurc ast
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Old 05-04-2005, 18:01   #4 (permalink)
pawn, loathesome, credible
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Re: Need help diagnosing clutch (?) problems.

one80out@hotmail.com wrote:

> First thing I'd do is check the clutch adjustment. Under the hood,
> sitting below the brakes' master cylinder is a rod that runs from the
> clutch pedal to the equalizer bar. The under-hood end of this rod is
> threaded. It goes through a hole in a block that pivots on the end of
> the equalizer bar. There should be a nut on each side of this block.
> Reach in there and see if you can jiggle the equalizer bar. If so,
> then back off the lock nut (the one nearest the tip of the rod) and
> turn the other nut counter clockwise until you've taken all the slack
> out. Don't go too far. You don't want to set it too tight, or the
> throwout bearing will be constantly pressing on the pressure plate and
> will burn out. Tighten the lock nut, and see if your gear selection
> problem is gone. If it's not, and you've run out of adjustment on the
> rod, then it's probably time for a new clutch.


Thank you for your help. The equalizer bar had about an inch or so of
play in it, which I eliminated. The scraping (perhaps predictably) was
a little worse when cold, but the clutch definitely felt like it had
more engagement and the shifting improved. The throwout bearing
scraping disappeared within a few minutes. Maybe that will improve too,
now that it is getting worked a little more. We'll see, but it seems
some clutch work is on the horizon in any case.


Thanks again.


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Old 05-04-2005, 20:01   #5 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Re: Need help diagnosing clutch (?) problems.

hurc ast wrote:

> bewarned
> cheap aftermarket clutches
> have problems ábrake washer around the hub
> reamans ten to brakes and rattle


What do you think of the Ram brand? Just curious, because that's what
I put in my kids' '65. From NPD, which seems to stock the better stuff.

180 Out

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