Re: Prolock car alarm system
K McDaniel via CarKB.com <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote:
> I bought my mustang in 1994 and it came with a Prolock security system (the
> computer chip completing the ignition circuit). However, recently I am
> having trouble starting the car. Its not the chip - - its the connections.
> I reach under the steering column and touch the taped wire area and the car
> starts. I have tried to reach someone from Prolock at the 800 number to no
> avail (number disconnected). I have been told they are out of business.
> The ford delearship says they won't touch it. My regular mechanic has
> referred me to Al & Ed's who have not been helpful at all. I am
> considering having the system removed and rewired without it BUT I CAN'T
> FIND ANYONE TO HELP ME or to fix the connetions. Any suggestions???? Or
> does anyone know where or who took over Prolock???
You might as well just remove the thing. They're a piece of junk... my
brother had one on his Jeep, and it failed twice before I just went ahead
and bypassed (and subsequently removed it). The "security" they provide
is extremely minimal, and can literally be bypassed with a safety pin.
Which is, in fact, how I bypassed my brother's. Also, if you have easy
access to the starter solenoid, you can circumvent the effects of the
Prolock with a short length of wire (again, a trick I used when my
brother's Prolock failed the first time and left him stuck downtown).
As I recall the connections on the thing were fairly self-explanatory.
There was a slot where the chip plugged in that was attached via a wire
bundle back to a small "brain box" consisting of some pretty pathetic
circuits that could likely be duplicated for about $10 and a Mouser
catalog. There were three other wires that came out of the "brain"
for the thing... one was a ground, and the other two spliced into the
wire running from the started solenoid to the ignition switch. Those
three wires could be easily repaired if the connections failed, but
the connections inside the wire bundle for the slow where the chip
plugs in would probably be a complete pain in the rear to repair. Of
course even if you DID repair it, it'd still be a piece of junk. You'd
be better off investing money in a security system that interrupted the
power to the fuel pump. Heck, even a $2 kill switch wired into the
power for the fuel pump and hidden someplace would do a better job than