onefastmustang

So I have a 69 351 Windsor block that I have put a 393 stroker kit in.
I have it all built and it starts up and sounds smooth, however there
is a slight rapping noise coming from the bottom. I have pulled the pan
and checked the clearances of the counterweight to piston skirt.
Everything looks good. Could it be that the oil pan is being
contacted??? Will a stock oil pan work on a 393 stroker kit or do I
need a clearanced oil pan???

Jim Warman

Stroking an engine leaves us needing to check a host of things... on our
440/500 conversion, we had to notch the bottom of the cylinders for
connecting rod clearance, the boss where the oil pump pick-up enters the
block (obviously, not a concern with the Windsor) had to trimmed severely,
and we had to address the oil pan rail.... when clearancing these areas, we
need to realize that things can "grow" at high rpms.

Anything in the way of metal to metal contact should leave witness marks...
some of these may require very, very close inspection.


"onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1134953729.435280.310150@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> So I have a 69 351 Windsor block that I have put a 393 stroker kit in.
> I have it all built and it starts up and sounds smooth, however there
> is a slight rapping noise coming from the bottom. I have pulled the pan
> and checked the clearances of the counterweight to piston skirt.
> Everything looks good. Could it be that the oil pan is being
> contacted??? Will a stock oil pan work on a 393 stroker kit or do I
> need a clearanced oil pan???
>

66 6F HCS

"onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote
>Could it be that the oil pan is being
> contacted??? Will a stock oil pan work on a 393 stroker kit or do I
> need a clearanced oil pan???

I also have a 393 stroker crank in my Windsor. Yes, the oil pan has to be
clearanced, and not by much either.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

onefastmustang

Hi Scott..

How did you determine where it needed to be clearanced? Are there any
good aftermarket pans that will work and not have to be messed with???




66 6F HCS wrote:
> "onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote
> >Could it be that the oil pan is being
> > contacted??? Will a stock oil pan work on a 393 stroker kit or do I
> > need a clearanced oil pan???
>
> I also have a 393 stroker crank in my Windsor. Yes, the oil pan has to be
> clearanced, and not by much either.
> --
> Scott W.
> '66 HCS Mustang 289
> '68 Ranchero 500 302
> '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
> ThunderSnake #57
> http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

Obie f.k.a. Wound Up

66 6F HCS wrote:
> "onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote
>
>>Could it be that the oil pan is being
>>contacted??? Will a stock oil pan work on a 393 stroker kit or do I
>>need a clearanced oil pan???
>
>
> I also have a 393 stroker crank in my Windsor. Yes, the oil pan has to be
> clearanced, and not by much either.

I'm considering a Coast Windsor stroker. My gut tells me the 331 would
likely be less to worry about (no need for notching the block, better
rod angle, etc.), and good to go on 6000+ RPM, but my need for speed
tells me 347 is 16 more inches. I just have a problem with pushing any
block to the limits, you know? And I could always fit the 331 with a
Paxton =)

OTOH - I am spending this $ once... unfortunately anything in the FE
category is prohibitively expensive, having gone so far down the 289/302
path. Any thoughts? A 351 crate would require me to buy a lot of new
stuff too. The new 600 carb would be a waste. The 8" Currie, although
strong, would probably break.

Please chime in anyone

--
Obie f.k.a. Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

AHPBBFM posting rules: http://tinyurl.com/ak694
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66 6F HCS

"onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote
>
> How did you determine where it needed to be clearanced?

I let my engine builder determine that. He told me he just used a small ball
peen hammer and did some percussion engineereing on it. Of course the motor
was out of the car and on a stand. With the longer stroke stroker kits you
HAVE to clearance EVERYTHING before installing the motor. It's truly gonna
be a PITA for you to do it now.

>Are there any
> good aftermarket pans that will work and not have to be messed with???

I seriously doubt it. But, you could call CHP to see what they say, they may
have pre-clearanced oil pans.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

66 6F HCS

"Obie f.k.a. Wound Up" <none@your.disposal> wrote
> I'm considering a Coast Windsor stroker. My gut tells me the 331 would
> likely be less to worry about (no need for notching the block, better rod
> angle, etc.), and good to go on 6000+ RPM, but my need for speed tells me
> 347 is 16 more inches. I just have a problem with pushing any block to
> the limits, you know? And I could always fit the 331 with a Paxton =)

I SERIOUSLY doubt you'd notice *any* "SOTP" difference between the 331 and
347.

> OTOH - I am spending this $ once... unfortunately anything in the FE
> category is prohibitively expensive, having gone so far down the 289/302
> path. Any thoughts? A 351 crate would require me to buy a lot of new
> stuff too. The new 600 carb would be a waste. The 8" Currie, although
> strong, would probably break.

Well... with the 393 stroker the only odd part is the crank itself. The
pistons are 302 pistons and the rods are stock 351 rods. MUCH cheaper than
going bigger and having to be ALL special parts. Just find a beat up 351W
and tear it down. rebuild with new crank and dished 302 pistons and you're
done. Everything else will bolt on (as I know you know). The only difference
would be finding a good block.

I re-used the rods that were already in my 351 when I got it. Used 12cc dish
302 pistons to keep the compression at 9.5:1 using D0OE iron 351W heads
(though they are FAR from stock; roller rockers, port polish). 393 crank
from CHP for ~$250. Balance the whole thing and put it together. The block
is ".060 ob, so It's in essence a 400 small block (rounding up the way Ford
always does). Once I put on a set of GT-40X heads, It'll pump out damn near
500lb/ft and ~430hp all with a rebuilt 625cfm Carter. Glad I've got a fairly
solid FMX and a 9".
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

onefastmustang

It won't be so bad.. Ill just put the frame back up on jack stands and
drop the oil pan. I think I will try a couple things before I go back
that direction though.

66 6F HCS

"onefastmustang" <onefastmustang@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1135009356.906886.317590@g49g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> It won't be so bad.. Ill just put the frame back up on jack stands and
> drop the oil pan. I think I will try a couple things before I go back
> that direction though.

Easiest to pull the plugs so you can rotate the engine easily and see where
the crank knocks the pan.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/

onefastmustang

Yeah... I broke down and ordered a race pan for the car.. I called
milodon and their pans are deeper all around and will clear the crank..
I started up the car and reached under, I could feel the taps on the
pan from the crank.. Ill know by tommorow night if that is the case..
;>)