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Old 07-30-2005, 14:01   #1 (permalink)
Wound Up
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Clutch cable #3 breaks

Well, the third "custom racecraft" Teflon-coated clutch cable I've put into
my Mustang for the Tremec conversion has broken. The first two broke at the
fork. This one broke at the pedal. What a fantastic mess this has been. I
am still determined to get it to work.

All three, as I try to make a diagnosis, seem to have had the last 6" of
them not entirely straight, and I think it's fatigued them at their ends. I
did end up getting it to run very straight to the fork, but the hole in the
firewall is slightly up and to the left of the pedal, causing a deviation
from straight on when it's pulled on by the pedal. But the way the pedal
interferes with the cowl pan (it needed to be BENT UPWARD to accommodate the
modified pedal assembly) I couldn't put the hole any closer without actually
cutting into the cowl pan. We're talking an offset from the firewall hole
to the end of the cable of about 1/2", not a big nasty kink. And, the pedal
arm doesn't pull the cable linearly, anyway. Would you concur this is the
basic problem, or are the cables more likely crap?

The vendor I used for this conversion is fairly well known. I do think he's
way overpriced, and his driveshaft was an out-of-round POS, too. I don't
want to give him any more money, I just want to stop breaking his damned
overpriced cables, and/or replace it with something better.

Can you take a cable like this somewhere and have it repaired, have them put
a new (and better) end on it? I mean what else can I do? Can anyone
suggest a better source for these cables? It's not even a high-po clutch,
it's just a late-model Cobra clutch.

I am so deep into this 5-speed conversion financially that I just HAVE TO
get it to work... and I don't want to give this guy another dime, or pay him
to tell me I'm an incompetent, basically. If anyone here can help me I'd
really appreciate it.

And, I really wish I had more to offer you guys in terms of technical
advice, but I'm really just a masochistic hobbyist who always thinks, "oh
hell, sure I can do that" but sometimes gets mired in stuff like this.

Thankssssss again

--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65


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Old 07-30-2005, 15:01   #2 (permalink)
Nosey
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks


> Can you take a cable like this somewhere and have it repaired, have
> them put a new (and better) end on it? I mean what else can I do? Can
> anyone suggest a better source for these cables? It's not even a
> high-po clutch, it's just a late-model Cobra clutch.


http://www.uskcable.com/aircraft.htm

They should be able to fabricate a cable for you that will not break. Check
out the strength of the 7X19 Extra Flexible galvanized cable.


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Old 07-30-2005, 16:01   #3 (permalink)
Wound Up
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

"Nosey" <kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:DeSGe.2905$PC7.145@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
>
>> Can you take a cable like this somewhere and have it repaired, have
>> them put a new (and better) end on it? I mean what else can I do? Can
>> anyone suggest a better source for these cables? It's not even a
>> high-po clutch, it's just a late-model Cobra clutch.

>
> http://www.uskcable.com/aircraft.htm
>
> They should be able to fabricate a cable for you that will not break.
> Check out the strength of the 7X19 Extra Flexible galvanized cable.


Wow. And this guy was bragging about his 1500 lb cables. Looking at the
diagrams, I have a 1x7. That may partially explain why they've gotten
overstressed and failed. I'll have to measure its diameter but I'd guess
3/16.

I never would have thought of aircraft stuff, but it makes complete sense.
I'll contact them and see what's what.


--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65


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Old 07-30-2005, 16:01   #4 (permalink)
Wound Up
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

I was cutting and pasting, then but somehow hit send instead of paste. So

Thanks a lot Ken!!

--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

"Nosey" <kfrei43@removethis.hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:DeSGe.2905$PC7.145@newssvr29.news.prodigy.net...
>
>> Can you take a cable like this somewhere and have it repaired, have
>> them put a new (and better) end on it? I mean what else can I do? Can
>> anyone suggest a better source for these cables? It's not even a
>> high-po clutch, it's just a late-model Cobra clutch.

>
> http://www.uskcable.com/aircraft.htm
>
> They should be able to fabricate a cable for you that will not break.
> Check out the strength of the 7X19 Extra Flexible galvanized cable.
>



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Old 07-30-2005, 19:01   #5 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

Why not try a hydraulic setup? You can piece your own together for
less than what you've spent on these cables. The hardest part is
fabricating a bracket to attach the slave cylinder to the tranny. You
can get the master cyl and the slave from CNC
http://cncbrakes.com/cncbrakes.com-a...all&series=320
and then you need a braided steel hose to connect the two.

Here's a hobbyist's website on his homebrew, which includes links to
other similar efforts:
http://midnightdsigns.com/Mustang/HYD%20Clutch.htm

It's even possible to use junkyard parts for the master and slave, if
you know what you're doing.

Or here's a complete kit for $450:
http://www.autoworksracing.com/65-70...lutch_kits.htm

180 Out

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Old 07-30-2005, 20:01   #6 (permalink)
STUK
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Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

Depending on what I decide for my trans in my '67 I'm going to rig an
hydraulic system. Cables IMO are only one step better than bellcranks and Z
bars which are great for tractors ;^) StuK

ThunderSnake #11

"Wound Up" <none@your.disposal.ask.me> wrote in message
news:4nRGe.2937$IH2.2597@newssvr27.news.prodigy.net...
> Well, the third "custom racecraft" Teflon-coated clutch cable I've put
> into my Mustang for the Tremec conversion has broken. The first two broke
> at the fork. This one broke at the pedal. What a fantastic mess this has
> been. I am still determined to get it to work.
>
> All three, as I try to make a diagnosis, seem to have had the last 6" of
> them not entirely straight, and I think it's fatigued them at their ends.
> I did end up getting it to run very straight to the fork, but the hole in
> the firewall is slightly up and to the left of the pedal, causing a
> deviation from straight on when it's pulled on by the pedal. But the way
> the pedal interferes with the cowl pan (it needed to be BENT UPWARD to
> accommodate the modified pedal assembly) I couldn't put the hole any
> closer without actually cutting into the cowl pan. We're talking an
> offset from the firewall hole to the end of the cable of about 1/2", not a
> big nasty kink. And, the pedal arm doesn't pull the cable linearly,
> anyway. Would you concur this is the basic problem, or are the cables
> more likely crap?
>
> The vendor I used for this conversion is fairly well known. I do think
> he's way overpriced, and his driveshaft was an out-of-round POS, too. I
> don't want to give him any more money, I just want to stop breaking his
> damned overpriced cables, and/or replace it with something better.
>
> Can you take a cable like this somewhere and have it repaired, have them
> put a new (and better) end on it? I mean what else can I do? Can anyone
> suggest a better source for these cables? It's not even a high-po clutch,
> it's just a late-model Cobra clutch.
>
> I am so deep into this 5-speed conversion financially that I just HAVE TO
> get it to work... and I don't want to give this guy another dime, or pay
> him to tell me I'm an incompetent, basically. If anyone here can help me
> I'd really appreciate it.
>
> And, I really wish I had more to offer you guys in terms of technical
> advice, but I'm really just a masochistic hobbyist who always thinks, "oh
> hell, sure I can do that" but sometimes gets mired in stuff like this.
>
> Thankssssss again
>
> --
> Wound Up
> ThunderSnake #65
>



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Old 07-30-2005, 23:01   #7 (permalink)
Big Al
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

Sounds to me like the cable is not swiveling when you step on the clutch. If
it's flexing the cable at the end it will break.

Al # 35


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Old 07-31-2005, 13:01   #8 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

CNC also makes a puller slave cylinder for toploaders. I linked to
their website in a previous post.

The diff between the old toploaders and the late model T-5/TKO/T-56 is
the pivot point on the clutch fork. The oldies need to pull the fork
backwards in relation to the tranny and the late models need to push it
forwards.

There is also a hydraulic throwout bearing from McLeod that will work
on the oldies or the late models, but they cost upwards of $300 and I
don't know if the bearing is rebuildable. That would hurt to have to
replace it with every clutch rehab. You also would need the same
master cylinder and hose and pedal mods etc. as with a clutch fork and
slave cylinder.

180 Out

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Old 07-31-2005, 15:01   #9 (permalink)
Wound Up
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Posts: n/a
Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

"Big Al" <nospamsal1@qwest.net> wrote in message
news:YeZGe.61$V14.5890@news.uswest.net...
> Sounds to me like the cable is not swiveling when you step on the clutch.
> If it's flexing the cable at the end it will break.


That's what I suspected. I put a swivel in at the fork, but not at the
pedal. Dammit. I'm now thinking about Stu's hydraulic suggestion. I dunno
yet. Need to do it correctly this time.

--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65


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Old 07-31-2005, 19:01   #10 (permalink)
one80out@hotmail.com
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Re: Clutch cable #3 breaks

I'm glad I'm still in Wound Up's kill file. Wouldn't want to
complicate his life with some useful information. I don't know if I'm
in Stuart's or not. Whatever.

180 Out

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