Herb Stein

"STUK" <BLOODYBRIGAND@TREBEK.COM> wrote in message
news:JOudnTyQUoK9anvfRVn-hw@golden.net...
> The stock 427 motors I've seen in '63 1/2 & '64 Fords and Mercs have used
> the A/C style clutch fan without the shroud. StuK

My '67 Mustang 390 has a clutch but did not come with a fan shroud.
And it's factory per Ford.

> "Willis" <callmewillis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
> news:1122430987.453033.20600@g44g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>>
>> One other thing - the one shroud I've been able to find for the car
>> comes from dearborn classics, but according to the tech at dearborn
>> their shroud WON'T work with my car because of fan clearances issues (I
>> guess unless I went back to an original style fan and clutch).
>>
>> For the dearborn shroud (you can find it on their site by typing fan
>> shroud) what size fan was used? Would I HAVE to go back to a clutch
>> fan?
>>
>> Jason
--
Herb Stein
herb@herbstein.com

 

Big Al

>
> I used to smoke, and I was one day cursing my idle overheat problems on a
> "one-year junker" I bought and fixed. Piece of crap, mutter mutter. Then
> I saw the smoke from my cigarette blow AWAY from the radiator as I stared
> at it.
>
> --
> Wound Up
> ThunderSnake #65

And??

Al # 35

Big Al

"Kathy and Erich Coiner" <kathy.coiner@gte.net> wrote in message
news:VxCFe.6112$dM3.5281@trnddc04...
> Under what conditions does it overheat?
>
> Sitting in traffic? At speed on the hiway? Only while climbing big
> hill?
> What?
>
> Flex fans suck! 'nuff said.
>

Change that to; most flex fans suck, some suck more than others:) Most just
make lots of noise. The stock Ford stainless steel flex fans work well. They
came with five and seven wings. Were popular in the early 70's. However get
a big clutch fan. Much better choice. Less vibration and plenty of air. Get
one at a salvage yard. OEM is a lot better than auto parts store
replacements. Certain GM and Chrysler fans will fit some Fords. Depends on
the bolt pattern and center shaft size. BTW: From the pictures, your fan is
on correctly.

Someone asked you for a detailed description of what's going on. I'd also
like to hear it.

Al # 35

Willis

Ok here's what I'm experiencing:

Car heats up fine, and the temp levels off at 160 (thermostat temp) for
a few minutes while sitting and idling.

I'll usually move the car once it gets up around 180. If I'm moving on
the highway (50 - 60 mph) temperature is fine, and hovers around 190 to
200 (depending air temp and speed). If I'm on a small main road (30 to
45 mph) the car gets up over 200 but not by much. If I hit a lot of
stop and go traffic, or if I sit at a stoplight for a long time, or if
I'm braking a lot (like coming down a big hill and need to make a
turn/stop) the temp will climb towards 210 to 215.

The other day a local ford expert told me to temporarily disconnect the
heater core hoses at the firewall to release any potential air in the
system (which I did, and some air did come out of the top hose). I did
not pull the hoses directly off the manifold. After that, as an
experiment, I put the car level in my court, left it running in
neutral, and set the parking brake. Temperature crept to 160, leveled
off, climbed to around 200 and leveled off again for just a minute or
two, and then slowly started creeping higher and higher. I turned the
car off at 225 and got waaay too nervous. From there she sat and I
left the hood open to let her cool down.

I took the radiator out and had it flush/flow tested. The radiator guy
said there was a lot of sediment but it was flowing correctly. Since
then I have not gotten the radiator back in the car and checked the
temp, because I've been fighting with new radiator hoses and a repaint
of my reserve tank (I'm hoping to get it all back together and running
by this weekend).

I do not know the timing settings, as I haven't messed with the car
much yet, but I'm hoping to check it once the radiator is back in
place. Same local ford expert said that if the timing is set
aggressively (in the 40s) that backing the timing down into the
high/mid 30s might help too. Plus I'm currently using a 13 pound
radiator cap, and it seems to be in good shape (no cracks on seals,
etc).

On the MSN group Ford Galaxie Collector, someone responded to my
questions with a Ford non-clutch fan with the part number:

"These fans are readily available used. I have a number for a
replacement
non-clutch fan - C6MY8200-B"

Does anyone know the measurements of the fan mentioned above??? If I
can figure out where to get a fan such as the one listed, I'd like to
see if it's compatible with the fan shroud carried by dearborn classics
at
http://www.dearbornclassics.com/cgi-...rt_number=fs12

The 18" flex fan I use now will NOT work with the shroud dearborn
carries, because the fan clears the top edge of the radiator by at
least 2 inches (see pics).

Does any of that info help? Once again thanks for the assistance!

Jason

Willis

Perhaps the best thing to try would be to downsize my flexfan (maybe a
16" model) and try it with a fan shroud - any thoughts?

Jason

Big Al

"Willis" <callmewillis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122479313.953632.96880@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> Ok here's what I'm experiencing:
>
> Car heats up fine, and the temp levels off at 160 (thermostat temp) for
> a few minutes while sitting and idling.
>
> I'll usually move the car once it gets up around 180. If I'm moving on
> the highway (50 - 60 mph) temperature is fine, and hovers around 190 to
> 200 (depending air temp and speed). If I'm on a small main road (30 to
> 45 mph) the car gets up over 200 but not by much. If I hit a lot of
> stop and go traffic, or if I sit at a stoplight for a long time, or if
> I'm braking a lot (like coming down a big hill and need to make a
> turn/stop) the temp will climb towards 210 to 215.
>
> The other day a local ford expert told me to temporarily disconnect the
> heater core hoses at the firewall to release any potential air in the
> system (which I did, and some air did come out of the top hose). I did
> not pull the hoses directly off the manifold. After that, as an
> experiment, I put the car level in my court, left it running in
> neutral, and set the parking brake. Temperature crept to 160, leveled
> off, climbed to around 200 and leveled off again for just a minute or
> two, and then slowly started creeping higher and higher. I turned the
> car off at 225 and got waaay too nervous. From there she sat and I
> left the hood open to let her cool down.
>
> I took the radiator out and had it flush/flow tested. The radiator guy
> said there was a lot of sediment but it was flowing correctly. Since
> then I have not gotten the radiator back in the car and checked the
> temp, because I've been fighting with new radiator hoses and a repaint
> of my reserve tank (I'm hoping to get it all back together and running
> by this weekend).
>
> I do not know the timing settings, as I haven't messed with the car
> much yet, but I'm hoping to check it once the radiator is back in
> place. Same local ford expert said that if the timing is set
> aggressively (in the 40s) that backing the timing down into the
> high/mid 30s might help too. Plus I'm currently using a 13 pound
> radiator cap, and it seems to be in good shape (no cracks on seals,
> etc).
>
> On the MSN group Ford Galaxie Collector, someone responded to my
> questions with a Ford non-clutch fan with the part number:
>
> "These fans are readily available used. I have a number for a
> replacement
> non-clutch fan - C6MY8200-B"
>
> Does anyone know the measurements of the fan mentioned above??? If I
> can figure out where to get a fan such as the one listed, I'd like to
> see if it's compatible with the fan shroud carried by dearborn classics
> at
> http://www.dearbornclassics.com/cgi-...rt_number=fs12
>
> The 18" flex fan I use now will NOT work with the shroud dearborn
> carries, because the fan clears the top edge of the radiator by at
> least 2 inches (see pics).
>
> Does any of that info help? Once again thanks for the assistance!
>
> Jason
>

If what you are telling us is true: Your problem is not enough air flow thru
the radiator at low speeds. One thing we should know is if it will boil over
if you just let it get hot. Anyway, change the fan. Don't use a solid hub
fan. Get a good clutch fan. A shroud will definitely help. You can buy
generic shroud kits, they come in black and chrome. Any handy person could
make one, unless it had to be a perfect OEM unit for some reason. If you ask
10,000 people you are going to get 10,000 different answers. Trust me. what
I'm telling you is right:)

If needed I can explain the logic to any of the above. Just ask....

Al # 35

Willis

Al,

If I added a shroud (dearborn classics makes a fiberglass replacement
that matches the OEM style for the 63's), could I still keep the flex
fan but just downsize to a smaller blade size? Apparently the problem
with adding the dearborn shroud to my car is the clearance issue with
the fan, because it would currently hit any shroud put into place (you
can tell by the pics).

Keeping a flexfan might be a little easier on my wallet and patience,
because than I wouldn't have to change over to a fan clutch setup.

What do you think?

Jason

Willis

Sorry - if I DID change over to a clutch-driven fan, how involved is
putting that in? What specific parts would I need to buy? Fan clutch,
solid-blade fan, other stuff too???

Jason

Big Al

"Willis" <callmewillis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122493595.503399.150500@g47g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
>
> Sorry - if I DID change over to a clutch-driven fan, how involved is
> putting that in? What specific parts would I need to buy? Fan clutch,
> solid-blade fan, other stuff too???
>
> Jason
>

Just the right junk yard fan. Four bolts and it's in. Not a big deal. Just
for grins, how much is the replica fan shroud?

Al # 35

Kathy and Erich Coiner

See my comments mixed in below.
But first, What kind of gauge are you using and how do you know it is
accurate?
If your gauge is off you might not have a cooling problem.
In the Sunbeam Tiger world, we say, if it ain't puking, it ain't
overheating.

"Willis" <callmewillis@yahoo.com> wrote in message
news:1122479313.953632.96880@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
>
> Ok here's what I'm experiencing:
>
> Car heats up fine, and the temp levels off at 160 (thermostat temp) for
> a few minutes while sitting and idling.
Good sign, probably indicates gauge is accurate but I'd like a second method
to confirm.

> I'll usually move the car once it gets up around 180. If I'm moving on
> the highway (50 - 60 mph) temperature is fine, and hovers around 190 to
> 200 (depending air temp and speed). If I'm on a small main road (30 to
> 45 mph) the car gets up over 200 but not by much.

Stop right here. There is nothing wrong with the temps but under those
conditions I would expect the car to sit on the thermostat (170-180 tops).
I think your radiator is marginal or you are not flowing enough water.

If I hit a lot of
> stop and go traffic, or if I sit at a stoplight for a long time, or if
> I'm braking a lot (like coming down a big hill and need to make a
> turn/stop) the temp will climb towards 210 to 215.
Okay, most of this sounds like not enough air flow. This is why Big Al was
saying you need more fan. But what is this stuff about the temp rising
while going down a hill? That makes no sense. Going down a hill takes the
load off the motor and still has air flow. Down hill usually cools a motor.
How fast does the temp gauge change?
Is it electric or mechanical?
>
> The other day a local ford expert told me to temporarily disconnect the
> heater core hoses at the firewall to release any potential air in the
> system (which I did, and some air did come out of the top hose). I did
> not pull the hoses directly off the manifold. After that, as an
> experiment, I put the car level in my court, left it running in
> neutral, and set the parking brake. Temperature crept to 160, leveled
> off, climbed to around 200 and leveled off again for just a minute or
> two, and then slowly started creeping higher and higher. I turned the
> car off at 225 and got waaay too nervous. From there she sat and I
> left the hood open to let her cool down.

Again this sounds like not enough air flow IF the radiator is in good
shape.
>
> I took the radiator out and had it flush/flow tested. The radiator guy
> said there was a lot of sediment but it was flowing correctly. Since
> then I have not gotten the radiator back in the car and checked the
> temp, because I've been fighting with new radiator hoses and a repaint
> of my reserve tank (I'm hoping to get it all back together and running
> by this weekend).

Run the eraser of a pencil down the fins on the radiator. They should be
solid and firmly attached to the tubes. If they crumble or you can tell
they are not solid against the tubes, your radiator is trash, get a new one.
Any chance this radiator has seen salt air like life near the ocean?
>
> I do not know the timing settings, as I haven't messed with the car
> much yet, but I'm hoping to check it once the radiator is back in
> place. Same local ford expert said that if the timing is set
> aggressively (in the 40s) that backing the timing down into the
> high/mid 30s might help too. Plus I'm currently using a 13 pound
> radiator cap, and it seems to be in good shape (no cracks on seals,
> etc).
>
> On the MSN group Ford Galaxie Collector, someone responded to my
> questions with a Ford non-clutch fan with the part number:
>
> "These fans are readily available used. I have a number for a
> replacement
> non-clutch fan - C6MY8200-B"
>
> Does anyone know the measurements of the fan mentioned above??? If I
> can figure out where to get a fan such as the one listed, I'd like to
> see if it's compatible with the fan shroud carried by dearborn classics
> at
> http://www.dearbornclassics.com/cgi-...rt_number=fs12
>
> The 18" flex fan I use now will NOT work with the shroud dearborn
> carries, because the fan clears the top edge of the radiator by at
> least 2 inches (see pics).
>
FIW The clutch fan on my 69 Mach1 with 428 is 18 inches in diameter

> Does any of that info help? Once again thanks for the assistance!
>
> Jason
>