Nosey

> If this were a fastback 4-speed car you'd know it by now!
>
> Just a fordor. What parts ya need?

fuel tank pickup with float
front fender marker lights
3-piece front seat belts
driver's door electric window switch panel
driver's door window regulator
glovebox door latch and cardboard innards
interior hood release handle and cable
hinged rear license plate mount

Got any of this stuff?
--
Ken

 

Wound Up

"Spike" <jma@snowcrest.net> wrote in message
news:ri2je1d6lrlp6l4o7mv19dqlggr1uh3d0v@4ax.com...
>I selected the TA because it was traditional.... that is... it still
> had the lonnnnngggggggg front end. None of that cab forward crap.
> Mustangs at the time were stubby, and shortly thereafter GM shrank the
> Firebirds and Camaros.
>
> As for those 5c and 10c... eventually, when every piece of the car has
> been replaced, it'll be over.... LOL

I jinxed myself. I broke another clutch cable, this time, right at the TOP
end (where it hooks to the pedal). I'm going to start a "please help the
hapless hobbyist" thread on it. I shoulda known not to get giddy. No
damage, no scare, just a bill for the flatbed. Could have been much, much
worse.

>
> Sounds like you hit the right combo with the shop and the parts : )

Yes, definitely. I'll be back there.

> I need to double check the zerk status, so I can do the lube, as well
> as oil and filter changes. Of course, a new grease gun will be
> required. All my power tools and timing light, tach/dwell meter, and
> grease gun "disappeared" during my last move. Oh, well. Another day,
> another dollar BEFORE taxes... : )
>
> Actually,that $1.78 turned out to be low in the long run. So many
> things went wrong with that car and nearly all due to the flexing of
> the body, etc, from the Corvette engine.

Couple that with typically low torsional rigidity of those late F cars, and
I'm not surprised.

More than once I punched it
> while cruising down the highway, broke rear traction, and wanted to go
> sideways past the other cars on the road. And, I forget how many motor
> mounts got broken.

Ugh. It's scary when you end up looking through the side windows to see
where you're going at high speeds. And I did know those cars had problems,
but it sounds like it was far worse than I'd heard.

--
Wound Up
ThunderSnake #65

Whole Lotta Tom

Nosey wrote:
>> If this were a fastback 4-speed car you'd know it by now!
>>
>> Just a fordor. What parts ya need?
>
> fuel tank pickup with float
> front fender marker lights
> 3-piece front seat belts
> driver's door electric window switch panel
> driver's door window regulator
> glovebox door latch and cardboard innards
> interior hood release handle and cable
> hinged rear license plate mount
>
> Got any of this stuff?


Yes. Yes I do.

Email me.

--


--
Tom

My diesel truck runs on used veg oil!
http://www.geocities.com/styleline58/main.html

My 1958 Ford
http://www.geocities.com/styleline58/

Visit the Cleveland Engine Forum
http://www.351cleveland.net

"Should any political party attempt to abolish social security,
unemployment insurance, and eliminate labor laws and farm programs, you
would not hear of that party again.... There is a tiny splinter group,
of course, that believes you can do these things. Among them are H.L.
Hunt...a few other Texas oil millionaires, and an occasional politician
or businessman from other areas. Their number is negligible and they
are stupid."

--President Dwight D. Eisenhower

Nosey

>> Got any of this stuff?
>
>
> Yes. Yes I do.
>
> Email me.

E-mail sent. Let me know if you don't get it.
--
Ken

WillBBF

I ended up putting electric fans in the galaxie. The clearance between
the March system and radiator support is very tight. I put in a HP
Griffin rad which is also thicker than stock. I had to cut the support
to move the rad forward. Still I only got about 3 inches between
pulleys and radiator. I found dual flex-a-lite pullers 2.5 inches
thick, moving a lot of air. I think they were about $170 from summit.
Flex-a-lite part number 210. 19 amp draw. It has a control module
(which is in the engine compartment) and you can turn a POT to adjust
the temp when fans come on. It also has provisions for manual switch.
There is also wiring included to turn on the fans when the compressor
comes on. The fans were just a little wide so I had to fab something
to seal off the shroud. So far I've tested it on some 100* days,
sitting in the driveway idling for 30-40 minutes. Seems quite capable
of keeping the temp down to 180*. I don't run a tstat (I know, I
know), have a HV wp. Engine: 466 about 520 HP. I just got the AC
hoses hooked up and evap. + condenser installed. But the car has no
windows or interior yet so the system has not been charged - I don't
know how the AC will affect the temp. I suppose I'll put in a pusher
on the condenser if overheating occurs.

--Will
ThunderSnake #64

one80out@hotmail.com

Regarding electric fans in early Stangs, these guys have one solution:
http://www.streetortrack.com/griffinfordearly.asp

Quote:

"These Mustang Griffin Radiators are direct stock bolt in - no cutting
or modifying your radiator support! If you require different
inlet/outlet placement or a custom size/shape made, please contact us -
we'll help you with a cooling solution no matter how big your motor or
how hard you drive it!

"Got a 65-66 car? Want more room to mount an electric fan? Ask about
our FREE custom mounting flange modification that will give you 1/2" -
3/4" more room! "

Not cheap, $440 w/o trans cooler, $500 with, plus the fan.

These guys came out with an all-in-one rad + fan several years ago
http://www.hotrodair.com/pg21a.cfm , probably the setup Wound Up was
remembering. Brass rad, fan and shroud. Not a huge amount of money,
$380 at this retailer
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...ectric_fan.htm or
$270 for the fan and shroud alone, "Replaces Stock Fan for use with
1964-66 cars with 3 core radiators"
http://www.mustangdepot.com/OnLineCa...ing/hra001.htm

Other manufacturers have recently come out with high dollar alum rad +
fan kts, $1000 in the mags. Be Cool is one.

180 Out