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Old 12-03-2005, 09:01   #1 (permalink)
John
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Engine ID

OK, here's what I found:

Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
390
Cubic Inches
4V - Premium Fuel

Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
holder on each.

Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.

Intake manifold:
Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the carb:
S C6AE 8B3
9425-G
On the back of the intake it said:
DIF Firing Order
15426378

Heads:
At #1 spark plug: DIF
R
At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
3
At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
1
The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt holes.
But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is at least
eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at this from
underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical at every port.
In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45 degrees off horizontal
from each other. At each exhaust port:
#1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
#2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
#3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
#4 bolts are almost vertical
#5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
#6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
#7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
#8 bolts are almost vertical

Block:
From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37

352
Laying down looking up:
I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number above
the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very well.
It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side from
underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of those, I
*think* it said C6NE.

I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post this.

What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I accurately
measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?

--
John
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
ThunderSnake #59



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Old 12-03-2005, 09:01   #2 (permalink)
John
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID

Not bad, the 352 is below the 37 on the block.

--
John
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
ThunderSnake #59

"John" <mooresjc@chartermi.removethisandonedot.net> wrote in message
news:GDjkf.132$cR4.21@fe03.lga...
> OK, here's what I found:
>
> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
> 390
> Cubic Inches
> 4V - Premium Fuel
>
> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
> holder on each.
>
> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.
>
> Intake manifold:
> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the carb:
> S C6AE 8B3
> 9425-G
> On the back of the intake it said:
> DIF Firing Order
> 15426378
>
> Heads:
> At #1 spark plug: DIF
> R
> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 3
> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 1
> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt
> holes. But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is at
> least eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at this
> from underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical at every
> port. In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45 degrees off
> horizontal from each other. At each exhaust port:
> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #4 bolts are almost vertical
> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #8 bolts are almost vertical
>
> Block:
> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37
>
> 352
> Laying down looking up:
> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number above
> the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very well.
> It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side from
> underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of those, I
> *think* it said C6NE.
>
> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post this.
>
> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I accurately
> measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?
>
> --
> John
> '69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
> ThunderSnake #59
>
>
>



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Old 12-03-2005, 09:01   #3 (permalink)
Larry S.
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID

"John" <mooresjc@chartermi.removethisandonedot.net> wrote in
news:GDjkf.132$cR4.21@fe03.lga:

> OK, here's what I found:
>
> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
> 390
> Cubic Inches
> 4V - Premium Fuel
>
> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
> holder on each.
>
> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.
>
> Intake manifold:
> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the
> carb: S C6AE 8B3
> 9425-G
> On the back of the intake it said:
> DIF Firing Order
> 15426378
>
> Heads:
> At #1 spark plug: DIF
> R
> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 3
> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 1
> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt
> holes. But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is
> at least eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at
> this from underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical
> at every port. In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45
> degrees off horizontal from each other. At each exhaust port:
> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #4 bolts are almost vertical
> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #8 bolts are almost vertical
>
> Block:
> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37
>
>
> 352
> Laying down looking up:
> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number
> above the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very
> well. It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side
> from underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of
> those, I *think* it said C6NE.
>
> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post
> this.
>
> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I
> accurately measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?
>


I would say you have a 390, but I'm not sure how to measure the stroke.
One thing I do know though is that the stroke is the same for 390's and
427's. If it's not 3.784" then it is not a 390 or 427. The stroke for the
other engines can be found at http://www.kitcarusa.com/kb.php?aid=4

Larry S.
TS52
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Old 12-03-2005, 09:01   #4 (permalink)
John
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID

"Larry S." <HareBall@SPAMSUCKScomcast.net> wrote in message
news:Xns972178BF9F59FHareBallSPAMSUCKScom@216.196.97.136...
> "John" <mooresjc@chartermi.removethisandonedot.net> wrote in
> news:GDjkf.132$cR4.21@fe03.lga:
>
>> OK, here's what I found:
>>
>> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
>> 390
>> Cubic Inches
>> 4V - Premium Fuel
>>
>> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
>> holder on each.
>>
>> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.
>>
>> Intake manifold:
>> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the
>> carb: S C6AE 8B3
>> 9425-G
>> On the back of the intake it said:
>> DIF Firing Order
>> 15426378
>>
>> Heads:
>> At #1 spark plug: DIF
>> R
>> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
>> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> 3
>> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> 1
>> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt
>> holes. But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is
>> at least eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at
>> this from underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical
>> at every port. In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45
>> degrees off horizontal from each other. At each exhaust port:
>> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
>> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
>> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #4 bolts are almost vertical
>> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
>> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
>> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #8 bolts are almost vertical
>>
>> Block:
>> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37
>>
>>
>> 352
>> Laying down looking up:
>> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number
>> above the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very
>> well. It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side
>> from underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of
>> those, I *think* it said C6NE.
>>
>> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post
>> this.
>>
>> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I
>> accurately measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?
>>

>
> I would say you have a 390, but I'm not sure how to measure the stroke.
> One thing I do know though is that the stroke is the same for 390's and
> 427's. If it's not 3.784" then it is not a 390 or 427. The stroke for the
> other engines can be found at http://www.kitcarusa.com/kb.php?aid=4


Thanks Larry. There's also the number 22 above a circle of dots with some
type of character in the center of the circle. From underneath, it's on the
driver side near the rear.

--
John
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
ThunderSnake #59



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Old 12-03-2005, 10:01   #5 (permalink)
Maximillian Rennquist
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID


John wrote:
> OK, here's what I found:
>
> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
> 390
> Cubic Inches
> 4V - Premium Fuel


Does the air cleaner have a snorkel or two screeened inlets?

>
> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
> holder on each.

Do they say Powered by Ford and are there date codes stamped into the
tops of them in plain view?

>
> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.

Turn it around.

>
> Intake manifold:
> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the carb:
> S C6AE 8B3
> 9425-G
> On the back of the intake it said:
> DIF Firing Order
> 15426378


A 390 GT intake cast Feb 3, 1968.

>
> Heads:
> At #1 spark plug: DIF

Detroit (or Dearborn maybe) Iron Foundry

> R
> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 3
> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
> 1
> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt holes.
> But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is at least
> eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at this from
> underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical at every port.
> In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45 degrees off horizontal
> from each other. At each exhaust port:
> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #4 bolts are almost vertical
> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
> #8 bolts are almost vertical

The heads are 66 GT's with the 14-bolt pattern.

>
> Block:
> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37

What I believe is the mold number

>
> 352

All Fe's have this except for one that I can think of.

> Laying down looking up:
> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number above
> the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very well.
> It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side from
> underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of those, I
> *think* it said C6NE.

C6ME. Its the common casting number for all the late 60's FE's. You
cannot get displacement from this.
>
> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post this.
>
> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I accurately
> measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?

At least half the engine is not original. The intake is right in model
but it was cast too early to have been on your car. It's off a '68 GT
engine. The casting date on the block is important to tell you if the
short block is orignal. If the 66 heads belong to the short block, then
it can only be a 390 out of a Mustang or Fairlane. Look for gaskets
between the exhuast manifolds and the head, head gaskets that are
sticking out too far and have been painted, and the presense of those
little bars that connect manifold bolts to keep then from backing out.
Engine lift hooks still attached. Does the paint on the heads match the
block exactly? Is the harmonic balncer thin or thick?
There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.
The trans and diff should have numbers on them too. Are you looking to
make this all original?

>
> --
> John
> '69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
> ThunderSnake #59


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Old 12-03-2005, 13:01   #6 (permalink)
66 6F HCS
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Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID


"Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote
> There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
> 390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
> hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
> performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.


Could it possibly even be a 360 out of a truck? 390 block/352 crank. They
built those till what...'73?? If the shortblock isn't original it stands to
reason it coulda been a TOTAL swap with the other top end stuff off another
vehicle. Great stump pullers, but terrible top end power.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


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Old 12-03-2005, 21:01   #7 (permalink)
John
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Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID

"Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote in message
news:1133632660.106648.64920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
>
> John wrote:
>> OK, here's what I found:
>>
>> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
>> 390
>> Cubic Inches
>> 4V - Premium Fuel

>
> Does the air cleaner have a snorkel or two screeened inlets?
>


Go to this webpage:
http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant...e=air_cleaners

It's just like the second air cleaner, 1965-71 Hi-Po Air Cleaner, except the
sticker is as I mentioned above.

>>
>> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
>> holder on each.

> Do they say Powered by Ford and are there date codes stamped into the
> tops of them in plain view?
>


It does not say Powered by Ford and there are no date codes stamped into the
tops of them.

>>
>> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.

> Turn it around.


I did, it's still somewhat difficult.

>
>>
>> Intake manifold:
>> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the
>> carb:
>> S C6AE 8B3
>> 9425-G
>> On the back of the intake it said:
>> DIF Firing Order
>> 15426378

>
> A 390 GT intake cast Feb 3, 1968.
>
>>
>> Heads:
>> At #1 spark plug: DIF

> Detroit (or Dearborn maybe) Iron Foundry
>
>> R
>> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
>> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> 3
>> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> 1
>> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt
>> holes.
>> But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is at least
>> eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at this from
>> underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical at every
>> port.
>> In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45 degrees off
>> horizontal
>> from each other. At each exhaust port:
>> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
>> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
>> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #4 bolts are almost vertical
>> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
>> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
>> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #8 bolts are almost vertical

> The heads are 66 GT's with the 14-bolt pattern.
>
>>
>> Block:
>> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37

> What I believe is the mold number
>
>>
>> 352

> All Fe's have this except for one that I can think of.
>
>> Laying down looking up:
>> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number above
>> the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very well.
>> It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side from
>> underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of those, I
>> *think* it said C6NE.

> C6ME. Its the common casting number for all the late 60's FE's. You
> cannot get displacement from this.
>>
>> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post
>> this.
>>
>> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I accurately
>> measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?

> At least half the engine is not original. The intake is right in model
> but it was cast too early to have been on your car. It's off a '68 GT
> engine. The casting date on the block is important to tell you if the
> short block is orignal. If the 66 heads belong to the short block, then
> it can only be a 390 out of a Mustang or Fairlane. Look for gaskets
> between the exhuast manifolds and the head, head gaskets that are
> sticking out too far and have been painted, and the presense of those
> little bars that connect manifold bolts to keep then from backing out.
> Engine lift hooks still attached. Does the paint on the heads match the
> block exactly? Is the harmonic balncer thin or thick?


I'll take a look tomorrow.

> There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
> 390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
> hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
> performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.


I measured the stroke before I read this. I didn't think of a straw. I
used a new, unsharpened #2 pencil. Held it straight into the #1 spark plug
hole, leaned it to the right slightly until it rested against and in a
little nook of the exhaust manifold and marked it with a fine point Sharpie.
The difference between TBC and TDC was a hair under 3 25/32" according to my
calipers. So, it is a 390!

> The trans and diff should have numbers on them too. Are you looking to
> make this all original?
>


Ever since I got it back in September I've just been enjoying driving it. A
few times, I dropped the kids at school or picked them up in it. You should
have seen the crowd of kids it drew. Most of them telling us, "cool car"!
My kids about cracked their faces their smiles were so big. Now that the
Michigan Fender Solvent has been applied for the first time, she's put up
for winter and I'm just looking to see what I actually have. You have been
a tremendous help too. Thanks Max!

Making it all original is not my cup of tea. I skipped the hot rod phase
when I was in high school. My two brothers had hot rods, both mustangs. I
wanted a hot rod, but I wanted to go to college worse and I knew I had to
pay my own way. I'd been looking for this car for several years, but I was
not satisfied with all that I looked at. Then, I had a battle with melanoma
about a year ago and won! After that, I said no more waiting and being so
picky. I found this car and I had to have it. I haven't been disappointed
yet. Solid car, no rust, good paint. It's not perfect, you can tell it's a
driver, and that's the way I'll keep it. No trailer queen for me.

Once I know exactly what I have, I'll figure out what I'm going to do. I
may bore and stroke what I have and add some goodies, or I may drop in an
Aluminum block 427 sideoiler. I see you said you have some 427 stuff.
Watcha got?

--
John
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
ThunderSnake #59



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Old 12-03-2005, 23:01   #8 (permalink)
John
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID

"66 6F HCS" <69ta_mustang@comcast.net> wrote in message
news:5aidnRgrDOsYZgzeRVn-gg@comcast.com...
>
> "Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote
>> There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
>> 390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
>> hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
>> performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.

>
> Could it possibly even be a 360 out of a truck? 390 block/352 crank. They
> built those till what...'73?? If the shortblock isn't original it stands
> to reason it coulda been a TOTAL swap with the other top end stuff off
> another vehicle. Great stump pullers, but terrible top end power.


Thanks for the input Scott, but it's definately a 390. I measured the
stroke and got 3.78". There's no crossbolts, so it has to be a 390.

--
John
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
ThunderSnake #59



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Old 12-03-2005, 23:01   #9 (permalink)
Maximillian Rennquist
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID


66 6F HCS wrote:
> "Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote
> > There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
> > 390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
> > hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
> > performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.

>
> Could it possibly even be a 360 out of a truck? 390 block/352 crank. They
> built those till what...'73?? If the shortblock isn't original it stands to
> reason it coulda been a TOTAL swap with the other top end stuff off another
> vehicle. Great stump pullers, but terrible top end power.


This what I know about 360's. Most if not all were 2V motors. The
overwelming majority of them were cast with a backwards 105 where the
352 normally is. These blocks were cast at the Michigan foundry instead
of the Detroit foundry, so you will find MCC instead of DIF. This where
the FT's for the big trucks were cast, and they had the thick-walled
version of the 105 block. The oil adapters for regular trucks put the
filter horizontal, while passenger car adapters turn them vertical.
The 360's main problem is that the pistons wound up too far down in the
bore at TDC and had no squish. I knew a couple guys that made them run
with CJ heads, but then anything will run with CJ heads.
To this day, I've never seen anyone explain what the 105 is on the MCC
blocks. It is my personal opinion that number is actually "10.5", which
might be the deck height before machining down to 10.17. The molds
would have been struck inside with a standard die, which would have
caused the numbers to come out backwards on the finshed work.
> --
> Scott W.
> '66 HCS Mustang 289
> '68 Ranchero 500 302
> '69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
> ThunderSnake #57
> http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/


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Old 12-03-2005, 23:01   #10 (permalink)
Maximillian Rennquist
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Engine ID


John wrote:
> "Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote in message
> news:1133632660.106648.64920@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com...
> >
> > John wrote:
> >> OK, here's what I found:
> >>
> >> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
> >> 390
> >> Cubic Inches
> >> 4V - Premium Fuel

> >
> > Does the air cleaner have a snorkel or two screeened inlets?
> >

>
> Go to this webpage:
> http://www.mustangsplus.com/Merchant...e=air_cleaners
>
> It's just like the second air cleaner, 1965-71 Hi-Po Air Cleaner, except the
> sticker is as I mentioned above.
>
> >>
> >> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
> >> holder on each.

> > Do they say Powered by Ford and are there date codes stamped into the
> > tops of them in plain view?
> >

>
> It does not say Powered by Ford and there are no date codes stamped into the
> tops of them.

I say you have an aftermarket dress-up kit on it.
>
> >>
> >> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.

> > Turn it around.

>
> I did, it's still somewhat difficult.

May be for a different motor. Should be a part number on it.


> I measured the stroke before I read this. I didn't think of a straw. I
> used a new, unsharpened #2 pencil. Held it straight into the #1 spark plug
> hole, leaned it to the right slightly until it rested against and in a
> little nook of the exhaust manifold and marked it with a fine point Sharpie.
> The difference between TBC and TDC was a hair under 3 25/32" according to my
> calipers. So, it is a 390!

Cool!
>
> > The trans and diff should have numbers on them too. Are you looking to
> > make this all original?
> >

>
> Ever since I got it back in September I've just been enjoying driving it. A
> few times, I dropped the kids at school or picked them up in it. You should
> have seen the crowd of kids it drew. Most of them telling us, "cool car"!
> My kids about cracked their faces their smiles were so big. Now that the
> Michigan Fender Solvent has been applied for the first time, she's put up
> for winter and I'm just looking to see what I actually have. You have been
> a tremendous help too. Thanks Max!
>
> Making it all original is not my cup of tea. I skipped the hot rod phase
> when I was in high school. My two brothers had hot rods, both mustangs. I
> wanted a hot rod, but I wanted to go to college worse and I knew I had to
> pay my own way. I'd been looking for this car for several years, but I was
> not satisfied with all that I looked at. Then, I had a battle with melanoma
> about a year ago and won! After that, I said no more waiting and being so
> picky. I found this car and I had to have it. I haven't been disappointed
> yet. Solid car, no rust, good paint. It's not perfect, you can tell it's a
> driver, and that's the way I'll keep it. No trailer queen for me.
>
> Once I know exactly what I have, I'll figure out what I'm going to do. I
> may bore and stroke what I have and add some goodies, or I may drop in an
> Aluminum block 427 sideoiler. I see you said you have some 427 stuff.
> Watcha got?

Several early Low Risers and High Risers. Maybe a couple dozen of them.
I have three Medium Risers and four Tunnel Ports. I had a non-factory
lighweight '63 Galaxie we ran from 64 until my brother died in it in
67. I had another Tunnel Port in a '66 Comet until I sold it and bought
the Shelby.
I'll be honest with you, John. All this stuff is going to wind up with
my grandson Kyle, and it will be up to him to sell what he doesn't want
to keep. I have pinhole leaks in my lungs, and I think the doctors are
wasting their time and my money by operating. They say maybe a
respirator will be the ticket, but if it comes to that, I think I will
have an accident of some kind. My problem is telling my son that I have
to leave my house to Kyle, too, because there is no place to put all
the parts otherwise. He is going to shit because this is a custom home
MY grandfather built in Toluca Lake that is currently worth over 2
million. I don't know what's going to happen.
I'm glad you were able to beat your melanoma. Changes your perspective,
doesn't it?

>
> --
> John
> '69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue
> ThunderSnake #59


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