"Maximillian Rennquist" <WDSPoontang@gmail.com> wrote in message
> John wrote:
>> OK, here's what I found:
>> Chrome air filter cover with sticker that says:
>> Cubic Inches
>> 4V - Premium Fuel
> Does the air cleaner have a snorkel or two screeened inlets?
Go to this webpage:
It's just like the second air cleaner, 1965-71 Hi-Po Air Cleaner, except the
sticker is as I mentioned above.
>> Chrome valve covers with 5 bolts and a support for a 4 spark plug wire
>> holder on each.
> Do they say Powered by Ford and are there date codes stamped into the
> tops of them in plain view?
It does not say Powered by Ford and there are no date codes stamped into the
tops of them.
>> Dipstick is not chrome. It's also somewhat difficult to get back in.
> Turn it around.
I did, it's still somewhat difficult.
>> Intake manifold:
>> Reading from the #1 cylinder intake runner from the head back to the
>> S C6AE 8B3
>> On the back of the intake it said:
>> DIF Firing Order
> A 390 GT intake cast Feb 3, 1968.
>> At #1 spark plug: DIF
> Detroit (or Dearborn maybe) Iron Foundry
>> At #2 and #3 spark plug: C6AE-R
>> At #4 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> At #5 spark plug: FoMoCo written vertically
>> The exhaust manifolds are on so I couldn't see to count all the bolt
>> But looking from the top with the manifolds on I see there is at least
>> eleven exhaust bolt holes in each head. I forgot to look at this from
>> underneath. The exhaust bolts that are in are not identical at every
>> In general, the bolts at each port are from 10 to 45 degrees off
>> from each other. At each exhaust port:
>> #1 rear bolt is 10 degrees higher than front bolt
>> #2 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 25 degrees
>> #3 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #4 bolts are almost vertical
>> #5 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 20 degrees
>> #6 rear bolt is higher than front bolt about 30 degrees
>> #7 front bolt is higher than rear bolt about 45 degrees
>> #8 bolts are almost vertical
> The heads are 66 GT's with the 14-bolt pattern.
>> From the engine compartment on the front drivers side: 37
> What I believe is the mold number
> All Fe's have this except for one that I can think of.
>> Laying down looking up:
>> I could not make out the date code at the oil filter nor the number above
>> the oil dipstick. They looked like they had not been cast very well.
>> It was very difficult reading a number on the passenger side from
>> underneath. I also did a pencil rubbing of it. From both of those, I
>> *think* it said C6NE.
> C6ME. Its the common casting number for all the late 60's FE's. You
> cannot get displacement from this.
>> I hope the relative position of what I saw comes through when I post
>> What's the verdict? Any other advice on the block? How can I accurately
>> measure the stroke through a spark plug hole?
> At least half the engine is not original. The intake is right in model
> but it was cast too early to have been on your car. It's off a '68 GT
> engine. The casting date on the block is important to tell you if the
> short block is orignal. If the 66 heads belong to the short block, then
> it can only be a 390 out of a Mustang or Fairlane. Look for gaskets
> between the exhuast manifolds and the head, head gaskets that are
> sticking out too far and have been painted, and the presense of those
> little bars that connect manifold bolts to keep then from backing out.
> Engine lift hooks still attached. Does the paint on the heads match the
> block exactly? Is the harmonic balncer thin or thick?
I'll take a look tomorrow.
> There is over a quarter inch difference between the 352 stroke and the
> 390. I suppose you could make marks on a straw and stick it in the plug
> hole and rotate the engine by hand. By the way you describe the
> performance its probably a 390, maybe a 428.
I measured the stroke before I read this. I didn't think of a straw. I
used a new, unsharpened #2 pencil. Held it straight into the #1 spark plug
hole, leaned it to the right slightly until it rested against and in a
little nook of the exhaust manifold and marked it with a fine point Sharpie.
The difference between TBC and TDC was a hair under 3 25/32" according to my
calipers. So, it is a 390!
> The trans and diff should have numbers on them too. Are you looking to
> make this all original?
Ever since I got it back in September I've just been enjoying driving it. A
few times, I dropped the kids at school or picked them up in it. You should
have seen the crowd of kids it drew. Most of them telling us, "cool car"!
My kids about cracked their faces their smiles were so big. Now that the
Michigan Fender Solvent has been applied for the first time, she's put up
for winter and I'm just looking to see what I actually have. You have been
a tremendous help too. Thanks Max!
Making it all original is not my cup of tea. I skipped the hot rod phase
when I was in high school. My two brothers had hot rods, both mustangs. I
wanted a hot rod, but I wanted to go to college worse and I knew I had to
pay my own way. I'd been looking for this car for several years, but I was
not satisfied with all that I looked at. Then, I had a battle with melanoma
about a year ago and won! After that, I said no more waiting and being so
picky. I found this car and I had to have it. I haven't been disappointed
yet. Solid car, no rust, good paint. It's not perfect, you can tell it's a
driver, and that's the way I'll keep it. No trailer queen for me.
Once I know exactly what I have, I'll figure out what I'm going to do. I
may bore and stroke what I have and add some goodies, or I may drop in an
Aluminum block 427 sideoiler. I see you said you have some 427 stuff.
'69 Mach 1 390 Toploader Acapulco Blue