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"CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> Scott, can I ask you what they charged you, not counting your
> stripes if you have that figure?
They threw the stripe in for free since they KNEW I was gonna drum them up
some business with this car. I honestly can't say what the total cost of
JUST paint was, but the whole deal cost me $5500, but that was a bare metal
build up with quarter repair and rust damage. They told me I got a steep
discount because, again, they knew I was gonna drum them up some business,
which I did. It shoulda cost me closer to $8000. Paint woulda cost me
somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500, course I'm totally guessing.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/
In article <xsidndH-wrye2FnenZ2dnUVZ_tydnZ2d@comcast.com>, 66 6F HCS
<69ta_mustang@comcast.net> wrote:
> "CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> > Scott, can I ask you what they charged you, not counting your
> > stripes if you have that figure?
>
> They threw the stripe in for free since they KNEW I was gonna drum them up
> some business with this car. I honestly can't say what the total cost of
> JUST paint was, but the whole deal cost me $5500, but that was a bare metal
> build up with quarter repair and rust damage. They told me I got a steep
> discount because, again, they knew I was gonna drum them up some business,
> which I did. It shoulda cost me closer to $8000. Paint woulda cost me
> somewhere in the neighborhood of $2500, course I'm totally guessing.
My quote, bringing them a car that has nothing in the way of body
work other than a ding or two, that they can block, seal and shoot was
1200 bucks. Less if I pull the trim and bumpers, which I had planned on
doing anyway.
This might be the type of place I'm looking for considering the
other stuff I own. They don't do body work beyond dings. No rust
repair, no panel replacement, no collision work. The shop is modest
sized and immaculate. The 40-something owner is the shooter and the
prep guy is 30-something. I think it's just those two guys. The cars in
there seem to be repairs on new cars from a local Cad dealer.
I like the idea of a "just paint" shop. It seems the "resto" places
and collision shops and hi-volume affairs area a mess and more money.
There is a guy around here that I may be able to hire to do any body
work at my place (where I can keep any eye on the proceedings) on the
future restorations. it would be great to just take a shell over a
couple miles and get it shot and back within a week.
I'm not sure the Falcon is really worth that kind of paint, but I
may do it just to see what kind of work they do. This car came with
14x6 Ford Magnum 500's (trim ring style), but I may have them do up
some color-matched steelies in case I want to go that direction.
"CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> My quote, bringing them a car that has nothing in the way of body
> work other than a ding or two, that they can block, seal and shoot was
> 1200 bucks. Less if I pull the trim and bumpers, which I had planned on
> doing anyway.
IMHO, that's a good deal if you get the high end Sikkens. Remember there are
two levels to their quality (especially with the clear). Not that the
cheaper stuff sucks at all. Sikkens (from what I hear) usually likes to
train the painters how to use their products since they are a bit different
than the others out there (it dries faster and a few other things).
Apparently Sikkens offers a "school" for the places that are going to be
start using their products. A bigger bonus if the guys at your shop took the
class.
The product costs more, but because they don't have to use as much of it ,
it equals out to about what you'd pay for it in PPG, but with a better
product, and less waste.
If they don't have an oven booth to bake the car after it's done, just make
sure they shoot yours last of the day and leave it in the booth overnight.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/
In article <zI6dnSqlWdG19FneRVn-sQ@comcast.com>, 66 6F HCS
<69ta_mustang@comcast.net> wrote:
> "CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> > My quote, bringing them a car that has nothing in the way of body
> > work other than a ding or two, that they can block, seal and shoot was
> > 1200 bucks. Less if I pull the trim and bumpers, which I had planned on
> > doing anyway.
>
> IMHO, that's a good deal if you get the high end Sikkens. Remember there are
> two levels to their quality (especially with the clear). Not that the
> cheaper stuff sucks at all. Sikkens (from what I hear) usually likes to
> train the painters how to use their products since they are a bit different
> than the others out there (it dries faster and a few other things).
> Apparently Sikkens offers a "school" for the places that are going to be
> start using their products. A bigger bonus if the guys at your shop took the
> class.
>
I checked their website, and I see eleven product names for auto
paint. Which do you have, and what other do you know about?
> The product costs more, but because they don't have to use as much of it ,
> it equals out to about what you'd pay for it in PPG, but with a better
> product, and less waste.
>
> If they don't have an oven booth to bake the car after it's done, just make
> sure they shoot yours last of the day and leave it in the booth overnight.
I know they don't have an oven, so I'll keep that in mind.
Me again. There are three things that seem unusual about this situation.
First, it's unusual for a "paint only" shop to be using such a high end
paint. Usually, those types of shops use the cheapest paints they can get
their hands on. I would guess that they're using Lesonal, which is the
lowest grade of Sikkens, which is still better than anything PPG. Second,
the price is awfully cheap for an entire car, also leading me to believe
they're using the low end (which still is not bad at all). Third, how can
a "paint only" shop even function without a downdraft baking booth? There's
no way they can paint more than one car a day.
Ask how many coats of clear they are going to put on. On the collision
work we do, two is the standard and accepted practice. On a classic, they
should put on at least three. I would ask how much extra it would cost for
four, then it can be sanded and buffed safely.
As for the question about the code, I know Sikkens was struggling with
pre-1981 car colors as of four years ago or so, but they were working on it
and SHOULD be able to make it. If not by code, they have a colormap book
that they can physically match by chip if you have a reference. Let me know
if you have any other questions. Mike
"CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> I checked their website, and I see eleven product names for auto
> paint. Which do you have, and what other do you know about?
I don't remember the product line, but neither I or the guys at the shop
would settle for anything less than the best. Remember they were planning on
using my car as a sort of rolling commercial for them to drum up business.
I'll call in the AM to see which line it is.
>> If they don't have an oven booth to bake the car after it's done, just
>> make
>> sure they shoot yours last of the day and leave it in the booth
>> overnight.
>
> I know they don't have an oven, so I'll keep that in mind.
Definitely. It's the only way to almost guarantee you don't get a booger in
your paint just cause they had to bring it out before it was dry. I'd DEMAND
to be last and leave the car in the booth till the next day. They can get
all the insurance scratch & dent crap out of the way and take fewer chances
of fugging up your paint, which they'd have to redo obviously if they did,
so it behooves them to leave it in there.
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57 http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/
In article <RKlxf.2660$ID1.804@trndny01>, krazcustoms
<krazcustoms@verizon.net> wrote:
> Me again. There are three things that seem unusual about this situation.
> First, it's unusual for a "paint only" shop to be using such a high end
> paint. Usually, those types of shops use the cheapest paints they can get
> their hands on. I would guess that they're using Lesonal, which is the
> lowest grade of Sikkens, which is still better than anything PPG. Second,
> the price is awfully cheap for an entire car, also leading me to believe
> they're using the low end (which still is not bad at all). Third, how can
> a "paint only" shop even function without a downdraft baking booth? There's
> no way they can paint more than one car a day.
There was no mention of Lesonal in the Sikkens site. I guess I was
looking at the wrong place. And I'm sure they're not painting more than
one car a day, if that.
> Ask how many coats of clear they are going to put on. On the collision
> work we do, two is the standard and accepted practice. On a classic, they
> should put on at least three. I would ask how much extra it would cost for
> four, then it can be sanded and buffed safely.
OK.
> As for the question about the code, I know Sikkens was struggling with
> pre-1981 car colors as of four years ago or so, but they were working on it
> and SHOULD be able to make it. If not by code, they have a colormap book
> that they can physically match by chip if you have a reference. Let me know
> if you have any other questions. Mike
Actually, their site has a "Color Match Online" page. I entered 1969
Y-code Ford Indian Fire and it came back with a number. So I guess they
got that part straightened out.
Is Sikkens distributed, or is it a direct line? If direct, I suppose
I could contact Sikkens and see if these guys are an authorized dealer.
They do have Sikkens stuff all over.
How do I, or any other customer, know for sure which grade of paint
any shop uses? Is it out of line to want to see the paint in the cans
before they mix it up? I can see where it would be real easy to snow
job consumers in this business.
Thanks for your input so far. What brought you here?
In article <KI2dnbdWKp7XgVveRVn-iA@comcast.com>, 66 6F HCS
<69ta_mustang@comcast.net> wrote:
> "CobraJet" <coiled@basking.hiss> wrote
> > I checked their website, and I see eleven product names for auto
> > paint. Which do you have, and what other do you know about?
>
> I don't remember the product line, but neither I or the guys at the shop
> would settle for anything less than the best. Remember they were planning on
> using my car as a sort of rolling commercial for them to drum up business.
> I'll call in the AM to see which line it is.
>
> >> If they don't have an oven booth to bake the car after it's done, just
> >> make
> >> sure they shoot yours last of the day and leave it in the booth
> >> overnight.
> >
> > I know they don't have an oven, so I'll keep that in mind.
>
> Definitely. It's the only way to almost guarantee you don't get a booger in
> your paint just cause they had to bring it out before it was dry. I'd DEMAND
> to be last and leave the car in the booth till the next day. They can get
> all the insurance scratch & dent crap out of the way and take fewer chances
> of fugging up your paint, which they'd have to redo obviously if they did,
> so it behooves them to leave it in there.
As I observed, it's a two-man affair and I don't think they do
enough to worry about whipping one out to do another. This is one of
the things I like about the place. Let's hope the other stuff works
itself out. Even if the quote was for the cheaper grade of Sikkens,
that's OK because I really don't think the car is worth a job like
yours. I'm more interested to see their overall performance, so I can
judge what to do about the big money cars.
Today I got the Falcon up on the concrete slab so I can start
diddling with the brakes and the slight trans leak. I never realized
how much trim a Futura has until now, when I'm thinking about having to
remove it. Wow.
Lesonal isn't exactly a brand under the Sikkens name. Both Sikkens and
Lesonal are brands under the parent company, Akzo-Nobel. If the cans say
Sikkens on them, it's Sikkens. It would be way too much trouble to fake
which brand their using, plus I'm sure not many of their customers are even
familiar with Sikkens.
I ended up here because a couple of years ago I bought a '68 LTD
Country Squire (390) and went looking for a place where I could get advice
when I need it, since I'm not too familiar with Fords. So far, all I did
was take the bumpers off and exchange them for rechromed ones which are
still sitting in their boxes since about a year ago. Once I jump into that
project with both feet, I'm sure you'll see my name here all over the
place. Actually, if you want to see the wagon or some of my paint jobs,
search for my e-mail on Myspace and check out the pics. Mike
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