I appreciate the help guys. I do have a monte carlo bar and export brace
installed, though I didn't drive the car hardly at all before I installed
them. I'm not sure what they did or how much they helped. I bought the good
Scott Drake export brace and not the cheaper thinner version without the
deep "waves" in it. The monte carlo bar is the one with the curve in it to
go around the dizzy. I already have KYB gas-a-justs for the front, I
honestly can't afford the Edelbrock IAS's though I WISH I could.
I wasn't thinking of going with the 620 springs in front. I was thinking the
bigger 750's or whatever it is. But I know that someone makes spec'd springs
for the mustang based on what would have come from the factory. Is it
correct that Ford had different springs for every car with every engine
variant. That's gotta be hundreds of different springs. Maybe prings for a
'69 convertible with AT and a 428? I'm assuming those would be the stiffest
from the factory. Would this hold true at all 4 corners? What about the 5
leaf rears from Mustangs Plus and their like.
Cash is a big issue for me and a neg wedge kit is out of the question. Is
the 1" Shelby drop really THAT big an improvement? I need to replace my
upper control arm ball joints anyway, so they have to be yanked for rebuild,
so it would be a good time to do the drop when I have them off. How would
you suggest the alignment be setup with or without the drop. I've heard
that -1 camber will help cornering but is a bigger PITA in slow turns.
This car is going to be 99.9% street and .1% race. It'll see the quarter a
few times in the summer, but rarely, and the circle drag races sound cool
since it's a heads up single lap around a 3/4 mile oval track. Only 2 turns.
I've thought of trying it just to see what it's like. My motor builder
REALLY wants me to try it just to see what it'll do, and cause he built a
good number of the race winning engines racing on that same track in the
different NASCAR series. From the "Legends" to the NASCAR West late model
series. He's got a reputation to uphold in the area as one of the best
builders and a few wins in this completely amateur race series would put him
in good for even more money next season. I'm sure you know how it works.
Plus it sounds like a lot of fun and more fun than a straight quarter mile.
I just don't want to throw this beast into a wall after all I've dumped into
it.
This car is a PITA on the street. sometimes when I'm trying to turn through
an intersection, I've almost ended up on the sidewalk a couple times since
it pushes so badly, and the "Swedish Flick" is frowned upon on public roads;
at least around here anyways. Heh :)
I currently have two sets of wheels I could use with this car. I have a set
of Minilite copies from Western Wheel. A pair of 15x7 and a pair of 15x8. I
also have a set of Centerline Convo Pro's. All are 15x7. The fake minilites
looks WAYYYYY better than the Convo Pro's, but I can't afford another set of
matching wheels. I'd like tires that'll grip well, but won't completely kill
my low speed issues since I don't have PS. Since this will be mostly street,
should I stay with the skinnier tires (225 to 235)? At least on front. I
know the more rubber to the ground in front the less understeer will be a
problem. But the wider I go the harder the wheel will be to turn and the car
will "track" on the highways in the ruts.
I have a complete PS system for a '69 from the pump to the "rack" or
whatever it was called back then, including drum brake spindles. I also have
the drop bracket for exhaust clearance. Should I go ahead and install this
system? Would there be issues using the non PS steering box with the PS
setup? I've heard there was no difference between the PS and non-PS steering
boxes in '69. True???
--
Scott W.
'66 HCS Mustang 289
'68 Ranchero 500 302
'69 Mustang Sportsroof 351W
ThunderSnake #57
http://home.comcast.net/~vanguard92/
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