On 3 Dec 2005 22:06:19 -0800, firstname.lastname@example.org
>I have a 1993 F150 w/300ci I6, 5spd manual (R2 Mazda), 3.08 gears, 4x4,
>157k miles. I just bought the truck 3 months ago and it seems that the
>clutch is slipping now. At lower speeds it seems fine, then at higher
>(35+mph) it's slipping more and more, especially going up slight hills.
>Now there's also an oil leak which looks like it may or may not be
>getting into the transmission (?), is that even possible, would an oil
>leak leak oil between the clutch and flywheel? It looks like the oil
>leak may be from the rear main seal or possibly the oil pressure
>sensor. I also have mechanical oil pressure/h2o temp Summit Racing
>gauges that I'd like to install.
Rear main seal could puke out enough oil to contaminate the clutch.
Definitely sounds like it's time for a clutch job tho..
>I'm somewhat mechanically inclined and would like to replace it myself,
>to save $ of course. Are there any good books that have good
>procedures/pics/instructions to do this myself? I've heard the Haynes
>books are better than the Chiltons. Would I be able to do the rear main
Clutch jobs aren't too difficult, but they're a bit involved. You're
going to need a clutch pilot tool for your vehicle (a piece of broom
handle works, but will require more fiddling to get everything lined
up.) and a jack to support the tranny when it's unbolted - it's gonna
be heavy with the xfer case attached to it. A good assortment of
wrenches might be required as well. Some bellhousing bolts are hard
to get to.
You'll need a new pressure plate, clutch plate, throwout and pilot
bearings too. Pull the flywheel and have it resurfaced. A pilot
bearing removal tool make removal of the pilot bearing easy. A simple
(butmessy) trick is to find a piece of dowel that will fit into the
center of the pilot bearing. Pack the center of the bearing with
grease and push the dowel into the pilot bearing. Tap it with a
hammer and the grease will push the bearing out of the end of the
crankshaft. Clean the hell ouf of the whole mess once it's out.
Rear main seal is kind of a bitch depending on the vehicle. I did one
on a Toyota V6 a few years back that required me to pull the oil pan
and loosen the crank bearing caps enough to get the crank to drop down
enough so I could slip the new seal in place. Pain in the ass....
>Would you recommend me trying it at least, or should I just spend the $
>to get it done professionally? What's a clutch job likely to run on a
>1993 F150 anyways?
Reasonable price for a clutch would be around $400-$500 around here,
>Strangely enough the parking brake also doesn't work. I press on the
>pedal and it looks like the cables are being pulled, at least the get
>very tight. I took off the drum on the driver's side and looked at the
>guts of the brakes, but I couldn't tell for sure if something was
>moving. I searched on the internet and there's a "1993 Ford F-150 NHTSA
>Recall ID Number: 94V169001" that looks like it may be an issue on this
>truck. Not sure. If it is, would any Ford dealer fix it for me even
>though I'm not the original owner of the vehicle?
Cable might be stretched or out of adjustment.. Whatever manual you
end up with should have a procedure to adjust or replace it.
>I would like to get the clutch working correctly and parking brakes as
>well. Then I'd be really happy with the truck. I like driving it
Get yourself a manual, some parts, a 6 pack of beer and a weekend to
devote to it and go for it. An 'exit plan" might be a good idea if
you can't finish it and need a pro to do so. :)