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Old 10-02-2005, 20:01   #1 (permalink)
savasca@vcu.edu
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1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

I've got an odd problem with my 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger under the
hood), I'll post as much information about it as I can and see if it
makes sense in the end.

About two months ago, I had the following work done on the truck, in
the following order, all within about a week of each other:

1. General oil change/filter change/rotate tires at Jiffy Lube. Check
all fluids, top off anything that needs it.
2. Regular tune-up at the dealership (Carmax), including replacing the
spark plugs (four cylinder engine), check all filters/belts/hoses, etc.
They didn't bother checking the battery (you'll see why I mention
that later). They "tweaked" (to use their words) the way the truck
was idling in the computer settings.
3. Two or three days later, the truck won't start. First person to
look at it and jump it says my battery is dead. I drive to an auto
parts store down the block, they check it and say it's not the
battery but the alternator. I drive it to my mechanic, he pulls out
the alternator, tests it, says it's charging fine, then tests my
battery and says that's the real problem. He puts my original
alternator in and a new battery.

After all this, things run fine for a couple of days. Then the
problems start.

They can be best described as the engine running too high. When I turn
it on first, it idles at about 1,200rpms for a few seconds, then drops
to around 750rpms (what it should normally idle at). When I get on the
road and start going, the engine problems come up. First, when put the
clutch all the way in to shift up (or coast to a stop), the engine will
either maintain its speed when I put the clutch in or actually increase
speed (usually gradually over a few seconds, not a jump all at once).
It will go well over 3,000rpms before I either turn the engine off or
put the stick up into 5th gear and ease off the clutch a hair at a time
to try to choke it off (depending on if I'm stopped dead in traffic
or up-shifting on the road). I normally shift between 2,000 and
3,000rpms, depending on whether I need a lot of horsepower (like
getting on a highway) or if it's cold outside and I'm trying not to
push her too hard until she warms up.

This happens intermittently and randomly, both when the engine is cold
and when it's hot from driving for hours non-stop. As I said, it
happens when I push the clutch in to either shift or to come to a stop.
It will occasionally do this also when stopped dead, not moving (just
sitting idle).

I've also noticed that when driving down the road, the engine will
occasionally maintain speed without giving it any gas. My clutch is
rather old, so I can feel a jerk if I take my foot off the gas for a
few seconds and then put it back in (even when I ease it in gently, you
can still feel it "grab" when it first gets started). The vehicle
does this occasionally on its own - I take my foot off the gas to
cruise a little and after a few seconds I notice I'm maintaining
speed, without touching the gas, and the cab will jerk a bit as if I
had gunned the engine.

All of these things have occurred, obvious, when I wasn't touching
the gas pedal. When I say it revs on its own, I mean it literally revs
on its own. I've gotten interesting (dirty) looks from people
crossing in cross-walks in front of me lately (to which they get the
sheepish "It's her fault, not mine!" look).

I've been to three mechanics a total of four times, and so far I've
been told there is nothing they can do since when they road test her,
she doesn't do anything like I've described. I thought maybe it
was my fault, even though I'm not driving her any differently.
I've been very mindful of how I'm running her the last few days,
and the problems are still there, whether I beat her hard down the road
or treat her with kid-gloves.

As I said, it happens equally often (and randomly) when the engine is
hot and cold, when it's been driven all day or left to sit all night
and started in the morning cold. The only way to stop her is to either
put it up into 5th gear (if I'm not there already) and ease the
clutch off to choke her down a bit, cut the engine, or wait until she
chokes herself out.

The only other odd thing she does (and this is something that's
happened since I bought her a couple years ago from Carmax) is a valve
on the driver's side under the hood (part of the exhaust system)
makes a clank-clank-clank noise. The valve has been replaced and I was
told that it's just a noisy valve and there is no problem with it.
It has gotten much noisier since this all started, but I haven't had
any idiot lights go off (like the last time the valve went bad, when my
dash lit up like a Christmas tree). I've noticed that when the
clank-clank-clank starts, the engine idles a little rough. I'm
hoping (honestly) that this is related to that valve, and it will go
bad again soon and set off my idiot lights, since without idiot lights
nobody can/will fix her.

At this point, I've ruined the good relationships I've had with the
only decent mechanics in my area (that I know about), all of them
thinking I'm crazy since it won't do it when they drive her. I'm
getting tired of hearing "Are you sure it's doing this?," or the
more popular phrase, "Could it be operator error?" So far, they
claim to have done the following:

Check all the hoses
Check all the valves
Check that all the fluids are topped off
Check the sensors
Check the cable on the cruise control (plenty of slack, not hanging)
Connect to a computer to dump codes (there are none)
Road test it (to the tune of about a tank of gas)
Let it set idle all morning in the garage
Hook a mobile computer up to monitor the computer while driving

As I said, they can't find a problem, though it's getting worse.

Any suggestions? I'd like to get some ideas of what it COULD be
before I drive it to the Ford/Mazda dealership locally to have them
take a look at it (my last desperate hope in having this fixed).

Anything you need me to clarify, let me know.

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Old 10-02-2005, 22:01   #2 (permalink)
Razorblade
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Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

Ask for a technician to do a test drive with you in the car and point out
exactly what you are talking about while you are with him. Alot of times it
is simply a matter of communication problems between a customer, service
advisor, and the technician that leads to these kinds of problems.

I would definitely take it back to the whomever did the so-called "tweaking"
and let them know that they have screwed things up. I don't know what all
"tweaking" they are able to do but it sure sounds like they did it wrong. It
could also be a fouled EGR valve that is causing the clanking and can be
contributing to the total problems. It may be failing causing a poor idle
and then whatever they did to tweak the computer just caused it all to spin
out of control.

Razor

<savasca@vcu.edu> wrote in message
news:1128303962.009912.136210@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
I've got an odd problem with my 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger under the
hood), I'll post as much information about it as I can and see if it
makes sense in the end.

About two months ago, I had the following work done on the truck, in
the following order, all within about a week of each other:

1. General oil change/filter change/rotate tires at Jiffy Lube. Check
all fluids, top off anything that needs it.
2. Regular tune-up at the dealership (Carmax), including replacing the
spark plugs (four cylinder engine), check all filters/belts/hoses, etc.
They didn't bother checking the battery (you'll see why I mention
that later). They "tweaked" (to use their words) the way the truck
was idling in the computer settings.
3. Two or three days later, the truck won't start. First person to
look at it and jump it says my battery is dead. I drive to an auto
parts store down the block, they check it and say it's not the
battery but the alternator. I drive it to my mechanic, he pulls out
the alternator, tests it, says it's charging fine, then tests my
battery and says that's the real problem. He puts my original
alternator in and a new battery.

After all this, things run fine for a couple of days. Then the
problems start.

They can be best described as the engine running too high. When I turn
it on first, it idles at about 1,200rpms for a few seconds, then drops
to around 750rpms (what it should normally idle at). When I get on the
road and start going, the engine problems come up. First, when put the
clutch all the way in to shift up (or coast to a stop), the engine will
either maintain its speed when I put the clutch in or actually increase
speed (usually gradually over a few seconds, not a jump all at once).
It will go well over 3,000rpms before I either turn the engine off or
put the stick up into 5th gear and ease off the clutch a hair at a time
to try to choke it off (depending on if I'm stopped dead in traffic
or up-shifting on the road). I normally shift between 2,000 and
3,000rpms, depending on whether I need a lot of horsepower (like
getting on a highway) or if it's cold outside and I'm trying not to
push her too hard until she warms up.

This happens intermittently and randomly, both when the engine is cold
and when it's hot from driving for hours non-stop. As I said, it
happens when I push the clutch in to either shift or to come to a stop.
It will occasionally do this also when stopped dead, not moving (just
sitting idle).

I've also noticed that when driving down the road, the engine will
occasionally maintain speed without giving it any gas. My clutch is
rather old, so I can feel a jerk if I take my foot off the gas for a
few seconds and then put it back in (even when I ease it in gently, you
can still feel it "grab" when it first gets started). The vehicle
does this occasionally on its own - I take my foot off the gas to
cruise a little and after a few seconds I notice I'm maintaining
speed, without touching the gas, and the cab will jerk a bit as if I
had gunned the engine.

All of these things have occurred, obvious, when I wasn't touching
the gas pedal. When I say it revs on its own, I mean it literally revs
on its own. I've gotten interesting (dirty) looks from people
crossing in cross-walks in front of me lately (to which they get the
sheepish "It's her fault, not mine!" look).

I've been to three mechanics a total of four times, and so far I've
been told there is nothing they can do since when they road test her,
she doesn't do anything like I've described. I thought maybe it
was my fault, even though I'm not driving her any differently.
I've been very mindful of how I'm running her the last few days,
and the problems are still there, whether I beat her hard down the road
or treat her with kid-gloves.

As I said, it happens equally often (and randomly) when the engine is
hot and cold, when it's been driven all day or left to sit all night
and started in the morning cold. The only way to stop her is to either
put it up into 5th gear (if I'm not there already) and ease the
clutch off to choke her down a bit, cut the engine, or wait until she
chokes herself out.

The only other odd thing she does (and this is something that's
happened since I bought her a couple years ago from Carmax) is a valve
on the driver's side under the hood (part of the exhaust system)
makes a clank-clank-clank noise. The valve has been replaced and I was
told that it's just a noisy valve and there is no problem with it.
It has gotten much noisier since this all started, but I haven't had
any idiot lights go off (like the last time the valve went bad, when my
dash lit up like a Christmas tree). I've noticed that when the
clank-clank-clank starts, the engine idles a little rough. I'm
hoping (honestly) that this is related to that valve, and it will go
bad again soon and set off my idiot lights, since without idiot lights
nobody can/will fix her.

At this point, I've ruined the good relationships I've had with the
only decent mechanics in my area (that I know about), all of them
thinking I'm crazy since it won't do it when they drive her. I'm
getting tired of hearing "Are you sure it's doing this?," or the
more popular phrase, "Could it be operator error?" So far, they
claim to have done the following:

Check all the hoses
Check all the valves
Check that all the fluids are topped off
Check the sensors
Check the cable on the cruise control (plenty of slack, not hanging)
Connect to a computer to dump codes (there are none)
Road test it (to the tune of about a tank of gas)
Let it set idle all morning in the garage
Hook a mobile computer up to monitor the computer while driving

As I said, they can't find a problem, though it's getting worse.

Any suggestions? I'd like to get some ideas of what it COULD be
before I drive it to the Ford/Mazda dealership locally to have them
take a look at it (my last desperate hope in having this fixed).

Anything you need me to clarify, let me know.


  Reply With Quote
Old 10-03-2005, 04:01   #3 (permalink)
David M
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 18:46:02 -0700, savasca rearranged some electrons to
form:

> I've got an odd problem with my 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger under the
> hood), I'll post as much information about it as I can and see if it
> makes sense in the end.
>

Maybe the IAC is sticking.

--
David M (dmacchiarolo)
http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
T/S 53
sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14 has been up 11 days 7:54

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Old 10-05-2005, 17:01   #4 (permalink)
gonzaleztineo@yahoo.com
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Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine


David M wrote:
> On Sun, 02 Oct 2005 18:46:02 -0700, savasca rearranged some electrons to
> form:
>
> > I've got an odd problem with my 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger under the
> > hood), I'll post as much information about it as I can and see if it
> > makes sense in the end.
> >

> Maybe the IAC is sticking.
>
> --
> David M (dmacchiarolo)
> http://home.triad.rr.com/redsled
> T/S 53
> sled351 Linux 2.4.18-14 has been up 11 days 7:54


Yup! I have the same truck, same year and I had the same problem with
the engine rpm outa whack.

I replaced the IAC valve (Idle Air Control Valve) about $45.00 and that
seemed to fix it.

ramon.

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Old 10-10-2005, 18:01   #5 (permalink)
savasca@vcu.edu
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Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

You totally rock. I've got some vacation time coming to me, and I've
already learned that there ain't a man out there that treats my baby
right OR can figure out what the problem is, to date. I plan to test
drive it WITH THE MECHANIC IN THERE WITH ME (as suggested), just in
case this is operator error (which I doubt, the only bad habit I have
is coasting, and that's mostly because I live in the city and am used
to coasting to save on clutch wear whenever possible). I'll also be
mentioning what was said here.

And this time, it's going to the DEALERSHIP (not Carmax, where I bought
it, but first the Mazda dealership and then the Ford down the street if
they can't fix it). Earlier this evening she did it again, over 5,500
RPMs before I finally cut the engine dead and re-started her.

(Sigh)

Thanks for all your tips everybody. I'll update if/when this is
resolved.

Wish me luck.

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Old 10-10-2005, 19:01   #6 (permalink)
I. Care
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Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

In article <1128987002.007116.22680@o13g2000cwo.googlegroups.com>,
savasca@vcu.edu says...
> You totally rock. I've got some vacation time coming to me, and I've
> already learned that there ain't a man out there that treats my baby
> right OR can figure out what the problem is, to date. I plan to test
> drive it WITH THE MECHANIC IN THERE WITH ME (as suggested), just in
> case this is operator error (which I doubt, the only bad habit I have
> is coasting, and that's mostly because I live in the city and am used
> to coasting to save on clutch wear whenever possible). I'll also be
> mentioning what was said here.
>
> And this time, it's going to the DEALERSHIP (not Carmax, where I bought
> it, but first the Mazda dealership and then the Ford down the street if
> they can't fix it). Earlier this evening she did it again, over 5,500
> RPMs before I finally cut the engine dead and re-started her.
>
> (Sigh)
>
> Thanks for all your tips everybody. I'll update if/when this is
> resolved.
>
> Wish me luck.
>
>

I haven't been following this thread and just noticed your rev itself
truck. I had a 1989 Mustang GT that intermittently would rev to 1800 -
2800+ rpms and it would either stop on it's own or I had to shut the
engine off and restart, fun while driving. Took it to the dealer
several times and they hooked it up to their machine and said nothing
wrong $76 please each time. When I asked about my extended warranty
their answer was "since we couldn't find anything wrong there is nothing
to warrant". I asked them to keep it and drive it to work, on errands
etc. and see for themselves. Got it back 1 1/2 weeks later no problems.
Took it down the street 2 blocks it started doing it again, went back to
the dealer they were closed. It malfunctioned once in front of a
service advisor when sitting in their lot, he said we don't have time to
mess with it today well look at it in a couple of days, leave it here.
Guess what? Another $76 diagnostic charge with no problem found.

Traded it in. Was getting too dangerous to drive when putting brakes on
going downhill in gear and could barely slow it down.

Good Luck.
--
I. Care
Address fake until the SPAM goes away ;-}
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Old 10-10-2005, 21:01   #7 (permalink)
ds549@webtv.net
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Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

i agree with the iac or pcv valve. either would do this. iac should give
a ode.egr will not.

http://www.minibite.com/america/malone.htm

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Old 10-11-2005, 14:01   #8 (permalink)
phaeton
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Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

I have a 99 Ranger with the 2.5L.

About 7 months ago I had a similar situation- where the engine would
simply rev to a certain RPM spontaneously. Made it real fun to drive
in stop-n-go traffic. Took it to the Ford Dealership and they
diagnosed it as an "Idle Air Valve". I'm not overly sure what that was
but warranty covered it (and also a new combination switch to cure The
Phantom Wipe).

Been fine since. Wish you luck on yours, and hopefully you can get it
into the shop and have it fixed before it kills you or something.

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Old 10-11-2005, 14:01   #9 (permalink)
phaeton
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Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

Whoops. Looks like y'all already said that... my bad ;)

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Old 11-01-2005, 08:01   #10 (permalink)
savasca@vcu.edu
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Posts: n/a
Re: 1999 Mazda B2500 (Ford Ranger) revs own engine

(Snip)

For anyone interested in what the resolution to this was, I just got it
fixed yesterday:

1. Replace all 8 spark plugs and their involved wiring (possible
improper installation, something I had done at CarMax the very day this
whole problem started a few months ago).

2. Clean fuel injectors (for some reason, my fuel injectors tend to
gunk up pretty bad once every 18 months or so). This wasn't related to
the problem I took it in for, it was done as a preventative/regular
checkup type thing I'm used to having done.

3. Replace MAF.

4. Replace IAC.

Total charge for all this? $1,272.39, and on the way home, I realized
I'm overdue for an oil change. My vacation has been stolen by the
truck, but at least my baby girl runs better now than the day I bought
her used.

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