89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
Ford Forum Ford Forum

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
ยป Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Fordforums Community > USENET NewsGroups > alt.trucks.ford
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Auto Loans Garage Mark Forums Read Auto Escrow

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 07-16-2005, 02:01   #1 (permalink)
krobinett
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's

I've been searching the newsgroups for an answer to my problem and
thought I'd be better off posting, so here goes!

I recently purchased a 1989 F150 Supercab 5.8 V8 EFI, Automatic, with
dual tanks for summer camping and other occasional use. When it starts
the idle lopes from normal on down - never races - and eventually
stalls. A few times the truck has stalled while driving, but I was
breaking a little harder than normal both times causing the RPM's to go
down. Of those two times, 1) Freeway: engine stalled when I pressed
the gas, but kicked back in 2) Surface Streets: engine stalled
completely, but I turned the key and started right back up while still
rolling.

If I give it a little gas, it does just fine. It also seems to perform
very well at driving speeds, power seems good - but I don't have the
best point of reference as my other cars are a v6 mini-van and a 4 cyl
accord. We also acquired a camper recently and the truck did just fine
with the extra load bringing the camper home - other than stalling at
the occasional stoplight.

The previous owner said that it had this problem before and a new Fuel
Selector Valve / Reservoir fixed the problem. I replaced that, but no
dice.

- I've just changed the oil and it seemed normal.
- There was oil in the air filter and the breather was shot. There
were some small carbon deposits in the air filter housing as well. I
Cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the breather and wiped out the
housing. The oil in the housing did not seem watery or milky.
- PCV Valve still rattles
- Changed the spark plugs, but still need to check the wires and
distributor.
- When I turn the car off there is a "whirring" noise for about 20-30
seconds that eventually slows down and goes away. It seems to be
coming from the driver side of the engine compartment.

Anyone else had these problems and fixed them? Anyone with a possible
solution?

Thanks so much!!!

Kelley

  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 07-16-2005, 23:02   #2 (permalink)
lugnut
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's

On 16 Jul 2005 00:23:54 -0700, "krobinett"
<krobinett@hotmail.com> wrote:

>I've been searching the newsgroups for an answer to my problem and
>thought I'd be better off posting, so here goes!
>
>I recently purchased a 1989 F150 Supercab 5.8 V8 EFI, Automatic, with
>dual tanks for summer camping and other occasional use. When it starts
>the idle lopes from normal on down - never races - and eventually
>stalls. A few times the truck has stalled while driving, but I was
>breaking a little harder than normal both times causing the RPM's to go
>down. Of those two times, 1) Freeway: engine stalled when I pressed
>the gas, but kicked back in 2) Surface Streets: engine stalled
>completely, but I turned the key and started right back up while still
>rolling.
>
>If I give it a little gas, it does just fine. It also seems to perform
>very well at driving speeds, power seems good - but I don't have the
>best point of reference as my other cars are a v6 mini-van and a 4 cyl
>accord. We also acquired a camper recently and the truck did just fine
>with the extra load bringing the camper home - other than stalling at
>the occasional stoplight.
>
>The previous owner said that it had this problem before and a new Fuel
>Selector Valve / Reservoir fixed the problem. I replaced that, but no
>dice.
>
>- I've just changed the oil and it seemed normal.
>- There was oil in the air filter and the breather was shot. There
>were some small carbon deposits in the air filter housing as well. I
>Cleaned the K&N filter and replaced the breather and wiped out the
>housing. The oil in the housing did not seem watery or milky.
>- PCV Valve still rattles
>- Changed the spark plugs, but still need to check the wires and
>distributor.
>- When I turn the car off there is a "whirring" noise for about 20-30
>seconds that eventually slows down and goes away. It seems to be
>coming from the driver side of the engine compartment.
>
>Anyone else had these problems and fixed them? Anyone with a possible
>solution?
>
>Thanks so much!!!
>
>Kelley



If you have not already done it, you may help it by cleaning
the throttle body and the IAC since you mention oil in the
intake. (This may be a sign of excessive blowby or crankcase
pressure. I believe that engine may have a filter in the
block under the PCV that may be plugged - not sure.) You
will need a can of throttle body cleaner and an old tooth
brush to clean the throttle body. You will need to remove
it from the intake to do a decent job of it but, you may get
some help by having someone hold the throttle open for you
while you do the dental work.

The IAC is attached to the left side of the throttle body.
It will also need to be removed to properly clean. It may
require soaking the valve end - not the motor end -
overnite in the solvent to clean it. Check it electrically
to be sure it has about 9-11 ohms impedance. That doesn't
mean it will work - just means it ain't open or shorted.

After you do this, disconnect the battery for 10 minutes and
go have a cold one. Reconnect the battery and start it w/o
touching anything. Allow it to warm at idle and then move
the trans selector amoungst all the trans positions several
time for several seconds each to allow it to relearn it's
odle paramaters. Drive it around town a few miles and see
if all is well. If not, there are some other things that
may need attention.

The whirring noise you hear may be the a/c system equalizing
if it has been running.

Good luck
Lugnut
  Reply With Quote
Old 07-16-2005, 23:02   #3 (permalink)
krobinett
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's

Thanks! IAC it was. It puurrrrrrs at idle now!!!

  Reply With Quote
Old 07-19-2005, 21:01   #4 (permalink)
krobinett
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's

2nd Update...

Well, it appears that the multiple symptoms that I described were
caused by multiple problems. After driving around for a while, the
truck started to stall again at freeway speeds and even died at a
stoplight. The idle was still solid, but it was running rich and
cutting out.

I bought a computer code reader ($35 at Walmart) and a code 33 (EGR
Valve not closing properly) popped up during the KOER test. I replaced
the EGR Valve and it seems to be running much smoother. But, I haven't
had the opportunity to get it over 45 yet. One good thing is that the
new EGR Valve has quieted an engine knocking that was happening durring
acceleration. It's not gone, but it is MUCH better.

Thanks again for your help. I'm not even close to being a car guy...
this forum is very helpful. I'll continue to post updates/questions if
anything more happens.

  Reply With Quote
Old 07-20-2005, 20:01   #5 (permalink)
lugnut
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 89 F150 stalls at idle / low RPM's

On 19 Jul 2005 20:11:43 -0700, "krobinett"
<krobinett@hotmail.com> wrote:

>2nd Update...
>
>Well, it appears that the multiple symptoms that I described were
>caused by multiple problems. After driving around for a while, the
>truck started to stall again at freeway speeds and even died at a
>stoplight. The idle was still solid, but it was running rich and
>cutting out.
>
>I bought a computer code reader ($35 at Walmart) and a code 33 (EGR
>Valve not closing properly) popped up during the KOER test. I replaced
>the EGR Valve and it seems to be running much smoother. But, I haven't
>had the opportunity to get it over 45 yet. One good thing is that the
>new EGR Valve has quieted an engine knocking that was happening durring
>acceleration. It's not gone, but it is MUCH better.
>
>Thanks again for your help. I'm not even close to being a car guy...
>this forum is very helpful. I'll continue to post updates/questions if
>anything more happens.



More often than not, the EVP sensor on top of the
EGR is bad instead of the valve itself. It tells the ECM
exactly how far open the EGR valve is at any given moment.
The EVP sensor rarely results in a fault code as it is just
barely in the adaptive range of the ECM but, far enough out
that the function of the EGR system is inadequate. This
makes the position of the EGR near the edge of
acceptability. The EGR valve was probably OK if you could
disconnect the vacuum line w/o noting a change in idle
quality. If you have a source of vacuum, you can apply
vacuum manually to the valve. If it then stalls the engine,
it is probably OK. An EGR valve that is not opening far
enough can cause both a limited rich condition and
"pinging".

Your rich condition may be caused by a bad fuel pressure
regulator as they had a fairly high failure rate in that
vintage. If you pull the vacuum line and find fuel, it is
definitely bad. A fuel pressure check should show about 35
psi idling. When you open the throttle, the loss in
manifold vacuum should result in an increase in fuel
pressure to 40-45psi. I've seen a completely failed
regulator result in fuel pressure over 90psi which will
quickly result in a failed fuel pump or other problems. If
you rev the engine and suddenly close the throttle to create
high manifold vacuum, you should see the fuel pressure drop
to 15-20psi. You can, of course check this with a vacuum
pump and guage along with a fuel pressure test guage.
Normally, if the regulator fails, the fuel pressure will go
high and not drop when vacuum is applied. In my own f150
w/5.0L, I saw fuel mileage drop to less than 9mpg when the
fuel pressure regulator failed on a trip - it was typically
in the 17-19mpg range on the same trip.

Another common item that can cause a rich condition is the
ECT sensor (engine coolant temperature). It tells the ECM
the engine temperature. A sensor with an incorrect value
can tell the ECM that the engine is warmer or cooler that it
actually is. This will result in a rich or lean condition
depending on which way it is out of spec.

Another place to look for a bad or erratic idle on those is
a vacuum leak between the upper and lower intake manifold.
They were known to occasionally suck a gasket especially
where someone did not properly torque the upper plenum. You
can usually find this by spraying something like WD40 or
carburetor cleaner along the joint with the engine idling
and listening for a change. Some folks like starting fluid
(ether) but, you can also damage the engine if you get a big
slug of ether into the engine thru a leak. You can also get
yourself blown up if Murphy is upset with you on that day.

If the upper intake has ever been off, check the small
plastic vacuum lines behind the manifold. They are super
easy to get pinched and broken when tightening the upper
intake. This can also warp the casting a bit. Since those
lines are for the EGR, the may play havoc with that system
as well as causing a vacuum leak that affect engine
operation.

Good luck
Lugnut
  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Fordforums Community > USENET NewsGroups > alt.trucks.ford



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are Off
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 05:27.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.