Re: 96 5.8L oil pan gasket
On Tue, 09 Aug 2005 02:17:18 GMT, "carl mciver"
>"lugnut" <firstname.lastname@example.org> wrote in message
>| On Mon, 08 Aug 2005 23:05:41 GMT, "carl mciver"
>| <email@example.com> wrote:
>| >"SnoMan" <UseLinkToEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
>| >| There is no need to remove intake or use a "cherry picker" to raise
>| >| engine (actually a cherry picker is a lift bucket the you go up it
>| >| because I have used them on large aircraft and we called them cherry
>| >| pickers and ours went up to 50ft plus) Get a floor jack and a block
>| >| of wood and place the wood between jack and pan and removed engine
>| >| mount bolts and raise engien up several inches and they insert some
>| >| blocks of wood of the correct thckness for height needed between
>| >| engine mounts and frame (or between engine of mounts depending on how
>| >| you unbolted it. ) Remove anything else in the way and remove pan.
>| >| Reverse process to put it back together. Also you should never work
>| >| under a engine that is just supported by a engine puller anyway.
>| > So the intake plenum comes off simply to get something to lift from,
>| >is there something it can run into?
>| > How high can you go before you have to start removing major things?
>| >have to replace one of the exhaust manifolds in the process (decked it
>| >for a leak years ago, and it appears to have cracked now from the warp)
>| >assume the exhaust has to come off as well? I don't see how the pan can
>| >come directly out from the front or back (I might very well be wrong..)
>| >stuff in the way, so will it come right out or do I have to jack it up
>| >higher to get it the rest of the way out?
>| > I have replaced some of the missing bolts with standard bolts, so
>| >than peening down around the bolt holes, is there anything I should do to
>| >the pan before reinstalling to keep future leaks down? Are the stock
>| >good, or should I get something better? Is there a suitable retainer out
>| >there that might keep them from turning out in the future?
>| I removed the upper plenum to allow enough clearance to get
>| the pan out. The upper intake on the ones I have dealt with
>| hits the firewall before it gets high enough for the pan to
>| clear. I doesn't take more than 15 minutes to get the upper
>| intake off anyway. The exhaust crossover will not allow you
>| to get the pan down far enough to clear unless you remove
>| the trans crossmember to allow the whole exhaust to drop.
>| In the past, I have used the exhaust manifolds to attach
>| lift brackets or wrap a cable around for lifting. The last
>| one I did had headers that had to come off for new gaskets
>| at the same time. I used a couple of pieces of 1/4 flat
>| stock with one end drilled to bolt to an exhaust bolt holt
>| and the other end drilled out to attach the lift chains.
>| As far as the pan bolts are concerned, you should be able to
>| get replacements at any well stocked Ford dealer. If you
>| cannot get the OEM bolt, you can use lock and flat washers
>| on standard bolts.
>| As far as the type lift I use, most parts of the country
>| that I have been around understand what is meant by a cherry
>| picker when it comes to lifting things. More precisely, I
>| use a hydraulic engine hoist with an extendable boom. I use
>| blocks of hardwood of whatever demision is correct to place
>| under the engine mounts while I actually work on things like
>| oil pans. You can use a floor jack and blocks of wood to do
>| the lifting as suggested by someone else if you have one
>| that will go high enough - mine like most only goes 20". I
>| usually support the vehicle on jack stands high enough for
>| me to get under it on a creaper. (I go 6 feet tall and about
>| 250 most days.) The transmission is lifted from it's mount
>| using an automatic transmission jack since I have one. The
>| trans is then supported on a 12 ton jack stand once it is
>| cleared. I am telling you this for the benefit of others
>| who may think I would advise you to do this in any unsafe
>| manner. I did not previously tell you this because I gave
>| you credit for knowing that your vehicle and it's components
>| must be properly supported while you repair them.
>| All of that being said, you can do as I did and start out by
>| not removing the upper intake as others have suggested and
>| don't bother doing anything with the exhaust. My large
>| arthritic hands simply do not allow me to work without
>| making enough room. The are several reasons why a dealer
>| gets $400+ to do this job with the cost of a pan gasket and
>| fresh oil being less than $50.
>| Good luck
>| BTW, don't forget to unbolt the fan schroud and slip it back
>| before you raise the engine.
> Good point about the shroud! I was crawling around under there again
>and checking things out. From what you were saying, I have to unbolt the
>transmission? Being a 4x4 it won't flex up too much, so I assume that's the
> And, thanks a bunch for your wisdom. It's much appreciated!
The trans does have to be unbolted to remove the crossmember
or rear support as some may call it. The engine and treans
won't go up more than a couple of inches or so but it is
enough to get the pan out. Removing the upper intake allows
just a bit mor before you hit the firewall. The floor pan
will stop the trans at the best This is not the easiest job
you can tackle on an F series. Being a 4x4 you may have
some things to work around on the drive train. There are
some dealer techs here in the Atlanta area that routinely
just pull the engine to do a pan gasket. That is great if
you have their equipment where you can put the engine on the
floor in an hour. Most DIY'ers do not have that luxury.
Again, if you have fairly small hands, you may choose to try
to lift the engine enough for the pan to drop a couple of
inches and install the old style 4 piece gasket set. Unlike
cork the OEM silastic gasket usually comes off in relatively
few pieces which reduces the probability of small pieces
getting into the oil pump. I have never felt lucky enough
to try it this way for fear of a badly positioned gasket
leaking at the get go.