Re: Heater Core Question - PROBLEM SOLVED!
Okay, to follow up because everyone likes a happy ending. I bought the
heater core, but never got around to messing with it. I installed a new
t-stat, but the old hoses back on. Then I called my ford truck freak of a
buddy and he had me mess with the heater control valve. As soon as I did
that, I started the truck and sure enough, HOT AIR!. So the good news is I
can get my $30 back for the heater core. The bad news is I don't know if the
t-stat fixed it or if the heater control valve was just sticky and needed to
be messed with.
Now here's the thing. My old t-stat passed the test, I think. I put it in
boiling water. But my truck runs very very cold. During September, after 4
hours of driving, the guage never even went past the "C" for Cold. It
registered, but not very far. Is it possible the t-stat didn't get hot
enough to open or the wax inside was bad/old and therefore needed more heat
than usual to open? I honestly think the new t-stat is what fixed it, but
you all can be the judges.
Thanks for all your help!
Enjoying a not so freezing drive to work and home nowadays,
<email@example.com> wrote in message
> >I know nothing about heater cores. Does
> > the coolant run through the core?
> Yes. The core is just like your radiator, only in a mini-version. The
> heater hoses are connected to the engine cooling system. When the
> coolant gets warm enough, the t-stat opens and lets coolant pass through
> the entire cooling system, including the mini-radiator heater core. It
> is very possible to clog the tubing within the core with 'junk'
> circulating in the coolant. This is a bad thing for the core as it can
> lead to creating holes in the core tubing, which equals a leak.
> Breathing that antifreeze laden air in the cabin isn't good for the
> lung things. Hopefully your cooling system was back-flushed before
> replacing the coolant. If it wasn't, Prestone makes a back-flush kit,
> about $5, and it does a very good job. Easy to install/use.....not
> rocket surgery. You just need to capture the new antifreeze(big tub to
> hold 3-5gal), follow the instructions, and then pour the AF back in when
> the flush is done. Voila! BTW: another 'cheap insurance'/smart thing
> to do, is to replace the radiator cap. Proper pressure in the cooling
> system is important to the operation of the complete system. Replacing
> it when performing maintenance is a good/smart thing. While I'm
> spending your money, check or just go ahead and replace the radiator
> hoses, heater hoses, and use new SS screw-type clamps. Apparently
> little/no maintenance was done on the cooling system, so those hoses are
> very 'suspect'....
> Helpful, I hope
> Dave S(Texas)