shooter

i have a 1998 ford ranger with 80,000 mi and my heater and ac controls
dont work
i cannot direct the airflow nor can i control the temperature . the ac
wil not come on when i put the dials to ac where is my problem?

 

JohanB

Vacuum leak and/or broken vacuum line to heater control


"shooter" <fwilusz@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1137877295.075371.293800@z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com...
> i have a 1998 ford ranger with 80,000 mi and my heater and ac controls
> dont work
> i cannot direct the airflow nor can i control the temperature . the ac
> wil not come on when i put the dials to ac where is my problem?
>

shooter

where do i find that line is it something i have to take the dash apart
on?
thx for the fast return. will that also make my ac not work?

Dave in Columbus

On 21 Jan 2006 13:01:35 -0800, "shooter" <fwilusz@adelphia.net> wrote:

>i have a 1998 ford ranger with 80,000 mi and my heater and ac controls
>dont work
>i cannot direct the airflow nor can i control the temperature . the ac
>wil not come on when i put the dials to ac where is my problem?

Check the #10 fuse, it controls the HVAC system.


--

Dave in Columbus

pkurtz2

"shooter" <fwilusz@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1137895120.077602.46380@f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com...
> where do i find that line is it something i have to take the dash apart
> on?
> thx for the fast return. will that also make my ac not work?
>
Shooter,
Broken vacuum lines wont cause the A/c or Heater to not come on, but they
will keep the doors from changing the vents (ie floor, dash, or defrost). I
recommend you get a new climate control dash system out of a used truck.
Hopefully this will fix your issues. It sounds like the whole dash system
has went out. To change out everything, and to check your vacuum lines, and
electrical connections, you will have to pull the controls out of the dash.
Everything is right behind there. And in your truck the vacuum hoses are
hooked up in sort of a cylinder type of arrangement. There is a circular hub
with about 6 or 7 hoses hooked into it. That is your vacuum control. The
electrical part only has 1 connector back there if I remember right. Then
there is a temp control cable that hooks up back there as well. It should be
fairly easy to replace. But it does sound like everything is shot to hell in
there.
Pk

shooter

dave thx i checked the # 10 fuse its good even replaced it plus
checked all the other i forgot to say i have heat but no control over
where it goes and no ac and t no temp control either

JohanB

Does the a/c compressor cycle ???

A/C and heater are 2 different systems and its very unlikely they both break
down @ the same time

If you have a electrical or leaking a/c problem heater would still work
If you have a heater control problem(vacuum) ac would still work but airflow
would default on defrost


"shooter" <fwilusz@adelphia.net> wrote in message
news:1137959919.661382.131700@g14g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
> dave thx i checked the # 10 fuse its good even replaced it plus
> checked all the other i forgot to say i have heat but no control over
> where it goes and no ac and t no temp control either
>

shooter

johan airflow does go to defrost with hot air coming ou the windsheild
vents
so i take it this means a vacuum hose leaking? mmm , soon as it warms
up here in mass ill check that out too,,,thx

putt@webtv.net

>i cannot direct the airflow nor can i
> control the temperature . the ac wil not
> come on when i put the dials to ac
> where is my problem?

Leave the AC out of the problem. It will not engage in cold temps.
Ambient air temp needs to be something like 55°F more/less.

So, that leaves the heater control system. You will have warm air if
the temp control cable is actuating the blend door at the heater core.
The core will always have hot coolant running through it, so the
blend-door in the plenum is how the cabin air temp is controlled. The
door is located cabin-side of the heater core and the temp control cable
actuates it.

Now where the warm air is directed to, is where the vacuum system comes
into the system picture. There are 3 vacuum motors in the system. One
of them controls whether/not you want to recirculate the cabin air or
want to introduce fresh air. No vacuum to that motor will bring in
outside air.

Another vac mtr controls air direction to/not to the panel registers.
This vac line is blue.

The third vac mtr controls air flow to the floor/defrost/partial(to
both) outlets. This is a two-stage motor. It has a red line and a
yellow line to it. Red is for full floor, yellow is for partial to
floor&defrost. No vacuum to this motor will default to defrost only.
These vac lines are controlled by the function switch. That switch gets
a vac supply from a black line that comes from the check-valve in the
engine compartment.

So, what all that boils-down to is: ya prolly got a vac leak/faulty vac
motor. Best way to check is with a hand vac pump. Cheap investment and
a good tool to have because of its many uses. Mity-Vac is one brand.

Check the vac lines for cracks/leaks/bad connections. Check the vac
motors for proper function. Usually the problem is in the lines and not
the motors. Occasionally the function switch will be the problem
source, but not usually.

Hope this helps

Dave S(Texas)

putt@webtv.net

>No vacuum to that motor will bring in
outside air.

forgot to put: this vac line is white

Dave S(Texas)