treebeach

HELP?! Stuck brake caliper bolt spring...

I was replacing my front brake pads on my 98 Ranger and the upper and
lower bolts that screw into the "spring pins" the ones with the
rubber boots - one of them is completly frozen, won’t move. I have
tried LOTS of things... please, any suggestions besides buying a new
caliper??

Thanks... I need my truck back tomorrow!

Tree

--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Ford-Help-...ict128320.html
Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=625762

SnoMan

"treebeach" wrote:
>HELP?! Stuck brake caliper bolt spring...
>
>I was replacing my front brake pads on my 98 Ranger and the upper and
>lower bolts that screw into the "spring pins" the ones with the
rubber
>boots - one of them is completly frozen, won’t move. I have
>tried LOTS of things... please, any suggestions besides buying a new
>caliper??
>
>Thanks... I need my truck back tomorrow!
>
>Tree

Try smacking them HARD with a hammer a few times because sometimes the
vibration it sets up can loosen rust hold them. You could heat the
calipers some too (300 degrees or so)

treebeach

"SnoMan" wrote:
> [quote:eb6dbd74a6="treebeach"][b:eb6dbd74a6]HELP?! Stuck brake
> caliper bolt spring...[/b:eb6dbd74a6]
>
> I was replacing my front brake pads on my 98 Ranger and the
> upper and lower bolts that screw into the "spring pins" the
> ones with the rubber boots - one of them is completly frozen,
> won't move. I have tried LOTS of things... please, any
> suggestions besides buying a new caliper??
>
> Thanks... I need my truck back tomorrow!
>
> Tree[/quote:eb6dbd74a6]
>
> Try smacking them HARD with a hammer a few times because
> sometimes the vibration it sets up can loosen rust hold them.
> You could heat the calipers some too (300 degrees or so)

Hey SnoMan,

The heat trick worked like a gem. The hammering just beat the snot
out of it.

I have a little shutter though now at low speeds when coming to a
complete stop. Thinking it’s the pads readjusting to the worn rotors
from the old stuck pin. What cha think?

Thanks!
Tree

SnoMan

"treebeach" wrote:
>Hey SnoMan,
>
>The heat trick worked like a gem. The hammering just beat the snot
>out of it.
>
>I have a little shutter though now at low speeds when coming to a
>complete stop. Thinking it’s the pads readjusting to the worn
>rotors from the old stuck pin. What cha think?
>
>Thanks!
>Tree

Were they rotors glazed or hot spoted? Also did you use hard pads or
soft ones? Also you did put so grease on the threads of the new bolt
right so you do not have to go thru this again.

TranSurgeon

"treebeach" <DoNotEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
news:1_625866_dc7e2abdf6a863fe638d8327c2d4c33a@autoforumz.com...
> from the old stuck pin. What cha think?

you shoulda replaced the rotors

The OTHER Kevin in San Diego

On 10 Jul 2005 15:41:10 -0400, treebeach <DoNotEmail@AutoForumz.com>
wrote:

>"SnoMan" wrote:
> > [quote:eb6dbd74a6="treebeach"][b:eb6dbd74a6]HELP?! Stuck brake
> > caliper bolt spring...[/b:eb6dbd74a6]
> >
> > I was replacing my front brake pads on my 98 Ranger and the
> > upper and lower bolts that screw into the "spring pins" the
> > ones with the rubber boots - one of them is completly frozen,
> > won't move. I have tried LOTS of things... please, any
> > suggestions besides buying a new caliper??
> >
> > Thanks... I need my truck back tomorrow!
> >
> > Tree[/quote:eb6dbd74a6]
> >
> > Try smacking them HARD with a hammer a few times because
> > sometimes the vibration it sets up can loosen rust hold them.
> > You could heat the calipers some too (300 degrees or so)
>
>Hey SnoMan,
>
>The heat trick worked like a gem. The hammering just beat the snot
>out of it.

Next time, use a brass hammer. The face of the hammer with get effed
up, but it won't damage the bolt.

>I have a little shutter though now at low speeds when coming to a
>complete stop. Thinking it’s the pads readjusting to the worn rotors
>from the old stuck pin. What cha think?

Possibly warped rotor.. Got the same thing going on with my
SuperDuty.. One of these days I gotta change out the bad rotor..

Derrick Hudson

On Sun, 10 Jul 2005 20:11:39 GMT, TranSurgeon wrote:
>
> "treebeach" <DoNotEmail@AutoForumz.com> wrote in message
> news:1_625866_dc7e2abdf6a863fe638d8327c2d4c33a@autoforumz.com...
>> from the old stuck pin. What cha think?
>
> you shoulda replaced the rotors

Not replacing the rotors will will your new pads quickly.

You're right that a nice new (flat) pad will not line up nicely with
an old worn (grooved) rotor.

-D

--
UNIX is basically a simple operating system,
but you have to be a genius to understand the simplicity.
-- Dennis Ritchie

www: http://dman13.dyndns.org/~dman/ jabber: dman@dman13.dyndns.org

SnoMan

"Derrick Hudson" wrote:
>
>
>Not replacing the rotors will will your new pads quickly.
>
>You’re right that a nice new (flat) pad will not line up nicely
>with
>an old worn (grooved) rotor.
>
>-D
>

This is overrated. I have some rotors that are 16 to 26 years old that
are still fine. THe trick is not to usse the very hard pads that some
push because something has to "give" in brakes for all the heat and
fricton of stopping and hard pads will eat the rotors. I use softer
pads and change them a little more often without needing to change
rotors with about every brakejob.

--
Posted using the http://www.autoforumz.com interface, at author's request
Articles individually checked for conformance to usenet standards
Topic URL: http://www.autoforumz.com/Ford-Help-...ict128320.html
Visit Topic URL to contact author (reg. req'd). Report abuse: http://www.autoforumz.com/eform.php?p=626926

treebeach

"SnoMan" wrote:
> [quote:29d3245b10="Derrick Hudson"]
>
> Not replacing the rotors will will your new pads quickly.
>
> You're right that a nice new (flat) pad will not line up
> nicely with
> an old worn (grooved) rotor.
>
> -D
> [/quote:29d3245b10]
>
> This is overrated. I have some rotors that are 16 to 26 years
> old that are still fine. THe trick is not to usse the very
> hard pads that some push because something has to "give" in
> brakes for all the heat and fricton of stopping and hard pads
> will eat the rotors. I use softer pads and change them a
> little more often without needing to change rotors with about
> every brakejob.

Wow, I’m feeling a little silly. Didn’t realize there were different
compounds when talking stock type of parts (not racing here...). I
bought the pads that the computer at the local parts store pulled up
for my truck. Geez, feeling a little rookiesq here.

Thanks for all the great feedback you guys.

I think the rotor is roughed up in a bad way from that stuck spring
bolt. The outter pad and the upper portion of the inner pad looked
worn but normal. The lower part of the inside pad looked practically
like bare metal! Yikes!

Glad I found it. Funny I went in to operate because of a ball lower
ball joint, not brakes! Ha! :roll:

M