Re: Transmission extension housing removal?
On Sun, 16 Oct 2005 16:01:39 -0500, Ford Warrior
>In an attempt to correct some deep vibration I get when driving 55-65mph,
>I'm going to be replacing the extension housing seal and bushing on my 1995
>Ford E250 4.9L L6. I've already replaced the u-joints. The seal has some
>tears and leaks a bit and there is a lot of play on the output shaft of the
>transmission. The transmission itself is the 3-speed C6. In the Ford
>factory manual they describe the process of replacing the bushing as not
>requiring removal of the entire extension housing because they tell you to
>use this special bushing removal tool that actually allows you to insert it
>from the driveshaft end of the housing and then 'pull' the bushing out
>using the tool's fingers... the problem is I can't find this tool at any of
>the auto parts shops around town and have only been able to find a set of
>bushing drivers that allow you to tap out the old bushing. This requires
>complete removal of the extension housing, but this process is not
>described in any of the 3 manuals I have. Will I have to remove the entire
>transmission? If not, will I still have to drain out the transmission
>fluid? Is there anything difficult about removing the extension housing?
>basically just give me the inside scoop on this. I figure it's probably an
>easy task, but I wanted to get some advice from the pros here before I end
>up screwing something up major.
>Or Is there any chance I could find a special tool like the one described in
>the Ford manual at a hardware store or Home Depot? What could I look for?
If you are talking about tears in the seal boot, that is not
a big problem. Replacement seals do not have a boot like
the original. For a one time bushing job, I would simply
unbolt the rear mount, jack it up, remove the rear mount and
remove the housing. Loss of fluid won't be much and you
will be able drive out the old seal and bushing easily. The
bushing can be reseated with a universal seal and bushing
driver. Be sure to check the yoke for wear also. If you
are getting driveline vibration for sure, you need to check
the center support carefully. Also, if the U-joints were
assembled too tight, that can cause a vibration if the
vibration started after they were replaced. The pinion is
also a source of vibration if the bearings are failing.
Over the years, I have started to just have a local drive
line shop do U-joints since they need to be rebalance about
half the time after joint replacement. They replaced the
center support bearing and all the U-joints along with a
rebalance in my F150 shaft a few months ago for less than a
hundred bucks with me laying the shaft on the counter.