Waterpump 1984 E350 - Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars
Ford Forum Ford Forum

» Auto Insurance
» Featured Product
ยป Wheel & Tire Center

Go Back   Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Fordforums Community > USENET NewsGroups > alt.trucks.ford
Register Home Forum Active Topics Photo Gallery Auto Loans Garage Mark Forums Read Auto Escrow

FordForums.com is the premier Ford Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
Old 01-31-2006, 20:01   #1 (permalink)
ladeeda
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Waterpump 1984 E350

I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that go
into the engine block.

The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
The timing chain cover has to be removed right?

So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
right?

So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the hole
and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on with an
80 pound torque right?

I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and reattach
the oil pan.

OK seems easy enough.





  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Old 01-31-2006, 20:01   #2 (permalink)
Whitelightning
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that

go
> into the engine block.
>
> The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
>
> So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> right?
>
> So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the

hole
> and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on

with an
> 80 pound torque right?
>
> I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and

reattach
> the oil pan.
>
> OK seems easy enough.


If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
and gear as well.
And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
it. sleeve is $5.

Whitelightning.


  Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2006, 21:01   #3 (permalink)
ladeeda
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>
> "ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> > I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> > It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that

> go
> > into the engine block.
> >
> > The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> > The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
> >
> > So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> > right?
> >
> > So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the

> hole
> > and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on

> with an
> > 80 pound torque right?
> >
> > I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and

> reattach
> > the oil pan.
> >
> > OK seems easy enough.

>
> If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
> and gear as well.
> And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
> it. sleeve is $5.
>
> Whitelightning.


Thanks.

Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?



  Reply With Quote
Old 01-31-2006, 22:01   #4 (permalink)
Tom Adkins
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350

ladeeda wrote:
> "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>
>>"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
>>news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
>>
>>>I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
>>>It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes that

>>
>>go
>>
>>>into the engine block.
>>>
>>>The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
>>>The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
>>>
>>>So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
>>>right?
>>>
>>>So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the

>>
>>hole
>>
>>>and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on

>>
>>with an
>>
>>>80 pound torque right?
>>>
>>>I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and

>>
>>reattach
>>
>>>the oil pan.
>>>
>>>OK seems easy enough.

>>
>>If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
>>and gear as well.
>>And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore in
>>it. sleeve is $5.
>>
>>Whitelightning.

>
>
> Thanks.
>
> Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
> How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?
>
>
>

At 20K the chain and gears "should" be ok, as in nearly like new. There is a spec
for timing chain deflection but I don't know it offhand. With the timing cover off,
turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit (1/4 turn) to take up the slack. Grab the chain
between the gears to your left as you are looking at the motor. Move the chain side to
side. If more than about 1/8" of motion you will want to consider replacing it. More
than 1/4", replace it for sure. If the cam gear is all steel and the timing set is
that new, it's probably a non issue.
What happened to the threads? You're right about removing the timing cover, but how
did they get damaged in the first place. Those covers (assuming a 5.8L\351 engine)
develop corrosion in the through holes for 4 of the WP bolts. The corrosion spreads
and causes internal and external water leaks. If the assembler didn't clean the holes
or replace the cover you may have the problems occur again when you try to assemble
it. IIRC, the same thing hapens to the 460 timing covers, I'm not all that familiar
with them. On the small block Fords (302\351) it's common to replace an OEM timing
cover due to corrosion in the water pump bolt area when rebuilding. You may want to
consider a new timing cover if it wasn't done on your 20K rebuild. It could save
problems down the road.
  Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 07:01   #5 (permalink)
ladeeda
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
> ladeeda wrote:
> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
> >
> >>"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> >>news:drp7m60472@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >>
> >>>I am trying to change a waterpump in a 1984 E350.
> >>>It seems the threads need to be rethreaded on the two boltholes

that
> >>
> >>go
> >>
> >>>into the engine block.
> >>>
> >>>The bolts go through the timing chain cover.
> >>>The timing chain cover has to be removed right?
> >>>
> >>>So the crankshaft pulley damper has to be removed with a gearpuller
> >>>right?
> >>>
> >>>So i will need to drill with a 21/64 inch bit and then tap into the
> >>
> >>hole
> >>
> >>>and then rethread and then I will need to put the damper back on
> >>
> >>with an
> >>
> >>>80 pound torque right?
> >>>
> >>>I will then need to reseal the timing chain gasket cover and
> >>
> >>reattach
> >>
> >>>the oil pan.
> >>>
> >>>OK seems easy enough.
> >>
> >>If your going to remove all that you might as well replace the chain
> >>and gear as well.
> >>And install a sleeve on the damper, by know there is a groove wore

in
> >>it. sleeve is $5.
> >>
> >>Whitelightning.

> >
> >
> > Thanks.
> >
> > Engine was rebuilt maybe 20,000 miles ago.
> > How can I tell if the timing chain was replaced?
> >
> >
> >

> At 20K the chain and gears "should" be ok, as in nearly like new.

There is a spec
> for timing chain deflection but I don't know it offhand. With the

timing cover off,
> turn the crankshaft clockwise a bit (1/4 turn) to take up the slack.

Grab the chain
> between the gears to your left as you are looking at the motor. Move

the chain side to
> side. If more than about 1/8" of motion you will want to consider

replacing it. More
> than 1/4", replace it for sure. If the cam gear is all steel and the

timing set is
> that new, it's probably a non issue.
> What happened to the threads? You're right about removing the timing

cover, but how
> did they get damaged in the first place. Those covers (assuming a

5.8L\351 engine)

I thought it would be easier. I do not know what I am doing. But the
threads appear to be dirty full of dust and whatever and I was not aware
of putting too much torque on it while reassembling. The bolts were
pretty hard to take out in the first place. If the tap was an inch
longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop the
oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.
Maybe I could spray some PB blaster in there and try to clean the
remaining threads just enough to get this to hold together for a few
more miles so I can be better prepared.

> develop corrosion in the through holes for 4 of the WP bolts. The

corrosion spreads
> and causes internal and external water leaks. If the assembler didn't

clean the holes

Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.

> or replace the cover you may have the problems occur again when you

try to assemble
> it. IIRC, the same thing hapens to the 460 timing covers, I'm not all

that familiar
> with them. On the small block Fords (302\351) it's common to replace

an OEM timing
> cover due to corrosion in the water pump bolt area when rebuilding.

You may want to
> consider a new timing cover if it wasn't done on your 20K rebuild. It

could save
> problems down the road.


It looks ok. I think the holes may have been clogged with gasket
sealant.

But I am suspecting the waterpump was never replaced. The lifetime
should be longer on a waterpump.

Thanks

  Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 08:01   #6 (permalink)
c
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
news:drqcof01f88@enews2.newsguy.com...
>
> "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
>> ladeeda wrote:
>> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
>> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
>> >


>
> Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
> shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
> because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.
>


That last statement leads me to question if you did indeed have a water pump
failure here...

Maybe it's just as simple as a stuck (closed) thermostat) or something as
serious as a head gasket leaking compression pressure into the coolant...

Most waterpump failures signal themselves with noise or leaks or both; not
the failure to circulate water.

Good Luck, Chuck


  Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 09:01   #7 (permalink)
Hairy
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


If the tap was an inch
> longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop the
> oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.


Several times I have welded a bolt on the end of a tap to get extra length.
PB Blaster or some other solvent/lubricant should be used when chasing the
threads.

Dave


  Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 11:01   #8 (permalink)
ladeeda
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"c" <cwwwk@aol.com> wrote in message
news:rM4Ef.2293$MJ.1042@fed1read07...
>
> "ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote in message
> news:drqcof01f88@enews2.newsguy.com...
> >
> > "Tom Adkins" <newton5@remove.comcast.net> wrote in message
> > news:M7udnWcOEbxW2H3eRVn-vg@comcast.com...
> >> ladeeda wrote:
> >> > "Whitelightning" <white.lightning2@verizon.net> wrote in message
> >> > news:uOVDf.1462$6d.720@trnddc06...
> >> >

>
> >
> > Right. No leaks were visible that I saw but water was overheating
> > shooting out the pressure valve. Which I supected was the waterpump
> > because the coolant was not circulating in the radiator.
> >

>
> That last statement leads me to question if you did indeed have a

water pump
> failure here...


that would suck.

>
> Maybe it's just as simple as a stuck (closed) thermostat) or something

as

I replaced the thermostat

> serious as a head gasket leaking compression pressure into the

coolant...
>


Lets hope not since the engine was recently rebuilt.


> Most waterpump failures signal themselves with noise or leaks or both;

not
> the failure to circulate water.
>
> Good Luck, Chuck
>


You brought up some good points for me to check.

Like possible retirement.

thanks.

  Reply With Quote
Old 02-01-2006, 13:01   #9 (permalink)
ladeeda
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350


"Hairy" <hairy@hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:44c71qF1fth6U1@individual.net...
>
> If the tap was an inch
> > longer I would be able to clean the threads without haveing to drop

the
> > oil pan and remove the harmonic balancer to get the cover off.

>
> Several times I have welded a bolt on the end of a tap to get extra

length.
> PB Blaster or some other solvent/lubricant should be used when chasing

the
> threads.
>
> Dave
>
>


Sounds like a good idea.

Maybe I should learn how to weld. It would definately be a useful skill.

Right now I am trying to get the 15/16 bolt off of the crankshaft
pulley. To pull the harmonic balancer off. The crankshaft keeps spinning
and I cannot get a nail into the balancer to wedge it in. Maybe I should
use something else.

Or maybe just junk it.

the engine and the transmission is rebuilt. The tires are fairly new and
other things like a new starter.

I need a work vehicle to compete with illegal aliens.


  Reply With Quote
Old 02-02-2006, 00:01   #10 (permalink)
The OTHER Kevin in San Diego
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: Waterpump 1984 E350

On Wed, 1 Feb 2006 14:52:48 -0500, "ladeeda" <email@lice.blow> wrote:


>Right now I am trying to get the 15/16 bolt off of the crankshaft
>pulley. To pull the harmonic balancer off. The crankshaft keeps spinning
>and I cannot get a nail into the balancer to wedge it in. Maybe I should
>use something else.


If it's a manual tranny, put it in reverse, engage the parking brake
and have at it.

Kinda neanderthal, but put a breaker bar with the appropriate sized
socket on the crank bolt and whack it with a hammer. The shock of the
hammer blows should pop it loose.. Just be careful the socket doesn't
pop off the bolt head and round off the corners.

If you have an impact wrench, that'll pop it loose for sure.


  Reply With Quote
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Ford Forums - Mustang Forum, Ford Trucks, Ford Focus and Ford Cars > Fordforums Community > USENET NewsGroups > alt.trucks.ford



Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are Off
[IMG] code is Off
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On


Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -7. The time now is 11:52.



Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Content Relevant URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.