I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
with the engine swap.
The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
How can I set it that way to drive it home?
The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
online for this car?
Any help will be apreciated http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
>I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
>the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
>I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
>they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
>with the engine swap.
>The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
>the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
>The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
>fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
>only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
>It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
>How can I set it that way to drive it home?
>The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
>online for this car?
>Any help will be apreciated
>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
>
If it is going into limp mode then the computer is reading a fault
code (assuming that it is working and is the correct computer). Check
(and wiggle) all fuses, then use the OBD socket and read the fault
code from socket 2 (Fuel Injection) and then socket 6 (ignition
system).
-Place test lead into socket
-Turn on ignition
-Press test button for more than 1 second but less than 3 seconds
-read the binary flashes to read the code:
*-------***-------*
would be code 1-3-1
-Again, press test button for more than 1 second but less than 3
seconds. WHne the first code appears again there are no more stored
codes.
To erase codes:
-First read all codes
-Place lead in socket
-Turn on ignition
-Press test button for at least five seconds and release
-Light should bo on for 3-4 seconds
-Press test button for at least five seconds and light should go out.
-Check for stored code again as outlined above to verify a 1-1-1 codes
(no faults)
Be aware that not all faults will cause a "check engine" light to
illuminate.
Also be aware that it can be difficult to isolate faults (see my
recent thread(s) on my AMM problems.
Good luck~
__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
Um, *I* can see the turbo housing and plumbing under the hood, no? You
*sure* this isn't the B230FT motor still??
K.
Sorry, no ideas about the performance issue(s).....
"Gilbert" <stevmar9@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:gad8k1pf5gfr74p2aq4mq9l3v0o8anub25@4ax.com...
>I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
> the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
> I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
> they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
> with the engine swap.
> The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
> the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
> The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
> fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
> only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
> It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
> How can I set it that way to drive it home?
> The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
> online for this car?
> Any help will be apreciated
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 16:34:32 -0400,
Gilbert (stevmar9@bellsouth.net) wrote:
> I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
> the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
> I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
> they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
> with the engine swap.
The eBay link that you provided shows a turbo. The symptoms that you
describe are consistent with a blown turbo.
That is the problem: the title. intercooler and air filter are the
original from the car a turbo model. And no there is no turbo , it has
a straight regular exhaust manifold. the number stamped in the engine
is b230f (no t at the end)
The air filter is connected directly to the intercooler with one of
those hoses like a vacuum cleaner
On Thu, 06 Oct 2005 01:48:42 GMT, Aawara Chowdhury <aawara@nohome.org>
wrote:
>On Wed, 05 Oct 2005 16:34:32 -0400,
> Gilbert (stevmar9@bellsouth.net) wrote:
>> I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
>> the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
>> I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
>> they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
>> with the engine swap.
>
>The eBay link that you provided shows a turbo. The symptoms that you
>describe are consistent with a blown turbo.
>
>Here's a photo of the engine compartment alone (from the eBay ad):
>http://www.theoriginalusedcarfactory...VO/dsc0002.jpg
>
>The turbo housing and tubing is clearly visible on the left.
>
>AC
"Randy G." <frcn@DESPAMMOcncnet.com> wrote in message
news:ici8k1lncfsqukhuso4cstk1bujsf5logp@4ax.com...
> Gilbert <stevmar9@bellsouth.net> wrote:
>
>>I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
>>the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
>>I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
>>they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
>>with the engine swap.
>>The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
>>the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
>>The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
>>fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
>>only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
>>It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
>>How can I set it that way to drive it home?
>>The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
>>online for this car?
>>Any help will be apreciated
>>http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
>>
>
> If it is going into limp mode then the computer is reading a fault
> code (assuming that it is working and is the correct computer). Check
> (and wiggle) all fuses, then use the OBD socket and read the fault
> code from socket 2 (Fuel Injection) and then socket 6 (ignition
> system).
> -Place test lead into socket
>
Unless it is different from our '85 it has no test socket and no provision
for reading codes.
"K Bourke" <Kbourke@eastlink.ca> wrote in message
news:kh_0f.1991$yS6.863@clgrps12...
> Um, *I* can see the turbo housing and plumbing under the hood, no? You
> *sure* this isn't the B230FT motor still??
>
> K.
>
> Sorry, no ideas about the performance issue(s).....
>
It appears the turbo has been removed; the duct from the AMM goes right to
the intercooler. The rest of it looks like a turbo model, though. I bet the
engine is still an FT and the ECU is the original.
"Gilbert" <stevmar9@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:l019k1l65fbe75etulasvmcc5jg2qv5t48@4ax.com...
> That is the problem: the title. intercooler and air filter are the
> original from the car a turbo model. And no there is no turbo , it has
> a straight regular exhaust manifold. the number stamped in the engine
> is b230f (no t at the end)
> The air filter is connected directly to the intercooler with one of
> those hoses like a vacuum cleaner
>
Okay - the symptoms are fairly consistent with a large air leak between the
AMM and the throttle body. (I don't know why it would work for 30 seconds -
ours sure doesn't under those conditions.) You can remove the duct from the
AMM (so it is still connected to the intercooler) and try blowing into it.
You should feel a lot of backpressure... very little leakage. If it leaks
find out where. Also wash that silly black ring off your face :-) If you
don't feel a lot of leakage I fear the AMM may be bad. Wrecking yards are
the most affordable source of that.
Disconnecting the AMM should put it in limp-home mode.
"Gilbert" <stevmar9@bellsouth.net> wrote in message
news:gad8k1pf5gfr74p2aq4mq9l3v0o8anub25@4ax.com...
> I got this car, the title says it is a turbo model, and it seems that
> the engine was replaced with a non turbo one.
> I don't know if the car worked after the change and I don't know if
> they replaced the computer and anything else that should be changed
> with the engine swap.
> The little bit that I have been able to drive the car tells me that
> the engine , tranny, brakes, steering, etc is ok.
> The problem is that I connect the battery and that the engine starts
> fine and 30 seconds after driving it starts to shut down after that it
> only idles fine but when I try to give it gas it bogs down
> It seems that in those first 30 sec it is working in "limp home" mode.
> How can I set it that way to drive it home?
> The Haynes manual has me more confused. Is there any good manual
> online for this car?
> Any help will be apreciated
> http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...RK%3AMEWN%3AIT
Looks like a poorly done hack to remove the turbo, the intercooler is still
in place. You should check the engine to find out if it's the turbo motor or
not, if it is slap a turbo in there, makes the car driveable, without it a
760 is a bit of a dog.
In article <QMqdncbw8sxgFNneRVn-sw@sedona.net>, michaeltnull@cybertrails.com says...
> >
>
> Okay - the symptoms are fairly consistent with a large air leak between the
> AMM and the throttle body. (I don't know why it would work for 30 seconds -
> ours sure doesn't under those conditions.) You can remove the duct from the
> AMM (so it is still connected to the intercooler) and try blowing into it.
> You should feel a lot of backpressure... very little leakage. If it leaks
> find out where. Also wash that silly black ring off your face :-) If you
> don't feel a lot of leakage I fear the AMM may be bad. Wrecking yards are
> the most affordable source of that.
>
> Disconnecting the AMM should put it in limp-home mode.
>
> Mike
>
>
>
Looking closely at the photo it seems as if the inlet hose to the
intercooler is not connected.
According to the seller's "check" this is a dual overhead cam 5 cylinder
turbo. The interior may be redyed burgundy but the "autocheck" outfit
people are maroons. Well, for $400 I guess you get what you pay for. If
the underbody stuff is anything like the tires, the car needs an awful
lot of work. It could still be a flood damaged car even though an
insurance loss wasn't reported.
Bob
--
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
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