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Old 08-24-2005, 20:01   #1 (permalink)
jch
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Posts: n/a
240 heater repairs

_____
Hello all,

Still working on my 1981 240 DL wagon project. Received heater control
valve from FCP which states on their web site that this valve "fits all
models". It is _very_ different from the original valve as you can see
from the photo (http://contrex-consulting.ca/misc/heater_valves.jpg).
The old one has a 90 degree configuration, and a _mechanical_control_
via a cable. The cable attachment is at the top left of the photo. The
new valve is a straight-through type with a _vacuum_control_. Can any
of you help me design something that will work?

I can see two solutions if this is indeed the _only_ valve that is
available:

1) The old valve can not be rebuilt. I could reuse the frame from the
old valve, remove the vacuum control from the new valve, and try to
refit the old mechanical cable adjuster to the new valve. Then i may
have to use a copper elbow to get the thing in the car in about the
right place.

2) Use the new valve as is, put an elbow in the plumbing, and hunt for a
valve that will control the vacuum so that the water valve can be opened
and closed in a graduated fashion. Ideally, this valve would be driven
by the heater control lever on the heater control panel. As a poor
man's alternative, one could hook the thing into one of the vacuum
buttons. The default water valve position is _open_ when there is _no_
vacuum, and _closed_ with _vacuum_ applied. If i were to hook it to the
recirculation vacuum line, then the heater would work with the
recirculation button depressed. The normal heater control lever would
become inoperative.

Looking forward to your ideas.

/ John

PS: To email me off line, use c o n t r e x..a t..s h a w..c a

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Old 08-25-2005, 00:01   #2 (permalink)
Randy G.
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Re: 240 heater repairs

jch <cnx@nowhere.com> wrote:

>
>1) The old valve can not be rebuilt. I could reuse the frame from the
>old valve, remove the vacuum control from the new valve, and try to
>refit the old mechanical cable adjuster to the new valve. Then i may
>have to use a copper elbow to get the thing in the car in about the
>right place.
>



I just had a thought. I have gone into auto parts stores and told them
I need a part that is NLA from the dealer (it happened to be an air
injection control valve). They showed me a book with pictures of lots
of available generic valves for lots of diffrent applications. All I
hade to do was match teh input and output sizes and locations
(angles). See if you can do the same. I bet you could find a generic
control valve that is cable operated


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"
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Old 08-25-2005, 07:01   #3 (permalink)
Mike F
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

jch wrote:
>
> _____
> Hello all,
>
> Still working on my 1981 240 DL wagon project. Received heater control
> valve from FCP which states on their web site that this valve "fits all
> models". It is _very_ different from the original valve as you can see
> from the photo (http://contrex-consulting.ca/misc/heater_valves.jpg).
> The old one has a 90 degree configuration, and a _mechanical_control_
> via a cable. The cable attachment is at the top left of the photo. The
> new valve is a straight-through type with a _vacuum_control_. Can any
> of you help me design something that will work?
>
> I can see two solutions if this is indeed the _only_ valve that is
> available:
>
> 1) The old valve can not be rebuilt. I could reuse the frame from the
> old valve, remove the vacuum control from the new valve, and try to
> refit the old mechanical cable adjuster to the new valve. Then i may
> have to use a copper elbow to get the thing in the car in about the
> right place.
>
> 2) Use the new valve as is, put an elbow in the plumbing, and hunt for a
> valve that will control the vacuum so that the water valve can be opened
> and closed in a graduated fashion. Ideally, this valve would be driven
> by the heater control lever on the heater control panel. As a poor
> man's alternative, one could hook the thing into one of the vacuum
> buttons. The default water valve position is _open_ when there is _no_
> vacuum, and _closed_ with _vacuum_ applied. If i were to hook it to the
> recirculation vacuum line, then the heater would work with the
> recirculation button depressed. The normal heater control lever would
> become inoperative.
>
> Looking forward to your ideas.
>
> / John
>
> PS: To email me off line, use c o n t r e x..a t..s h a w..c a


You have a new valve for a 740, not a 240. While the new type valve for
a 240 is similar to the 740 valve in that it's a straight through type,
it is cable operated, and the new valve comes in a kit with the hoses
and brackets you need to install it. Check out:

http://replacement.autopartswarehous...ater+Valve+Kit

You may need to cut and paste or just look up the heater valve for your
car at www.autopartswarehouse.com (or any of the multitude of other
internet parts places)

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
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Old 08-28-2005, 22:01   #4 (permalink)
User
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

In article <430DBA2A.7104D3F9@allsttream.nett>, Mike F <"mikef2316
()"@allsttream.nett> says...
>
> You have a new valve for a 740, not a 240. While the new type valve for
> a 240 is similar to the 740 valve in that it's a straight through type,
> it is cable operated, and the new valve comes in a kit with the hoses
> and brackets you need to install it. Check out:
>
> http://replacement.autopartswarehous...ater+Valve+Kit
>
> You may need to cut and paste or just look up the heater valve for your
> car at www.autopartswarehouse.com (or any of the multitude of other
> internet parts places)


The Scantech plastic valve that is available from Volvo or any of the
other aftermarket sources is crap.

I just saw an old timey regular, cable adjustable heat valve on a
Daimler sports car the other day and it looked brand new and also very
familiar. 1/2" in and out, 90* apart. Probably a British stanpart from
the 60's through 80's.

Bob

--
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
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Old 08-29-2005, 08:01   #5 (permalink)
Mike F
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

User wrote:
>
> The Scantech plastic valve that is available from Volvo or any of the
> other aftermarket sources is crap.
>
> I just saw an old timey regular, cable adjustable heat valve on a
> Daimler sports car the other day and it looked brand new and also very
> familiar. 1/2" in and out, 90* apart. Probably a British stanpart from
> the 60's through 80's.
>
> Bob
>
> --
> The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.


What I find about those new valves is that they don't 100% seal off the
water. So a little always dribbles through the heater core, which adds
some heat. As most of us who ever drove 240s know, that's not the kind
of help that 240's A/C needs.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
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Old 09-12-2005, 20:01   #6 (permalink)
User
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

In article <4313086F.F344B6A3@allsttream.nett>, Mike F <"mikef2316
()"@allsttream.nett> says...
> User wrote:
> >
> > The Scantech plastic valve that is available from Volvo or any of the
> > other aftermarket sources is crap.
> >
> > I just saw an old timey regular, cable adjustable heat valve on a
> > Daimler sports car the other day and it looked brand new and also very
> > familiar. 1/2" in and out, 90* apart. Probably a British stanpart from
> > the 60's through 80's.
> >
> > Bob
> >
> > --
> > The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

>
> What I find about those new valves is that they don't 100% seal off the
> water. So a little always dribbles through the heater core, which adds
> some heat. As most of us who ever drove 240s know, that's not the kind
> of help that 240's A/C needs.
>
>

I can generaly live with a little coolant bleed into the heater core.
But the material is so thin at the ends of the plastic simulated pipe
that they tend to break just like the valve on a 700/900. Only
difference is the hot water runs all over your leg instead of out side
in the engine compartment.

Bob
--
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.
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Old 09-14-2005, 18:01   #7 (permalink)
Johan Plane
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

User wrote:

> In article <4313086F.F344B6A3@allsttream.nett>, Mike F <"mikef2316
> ()"@allsttream.nett> says...
> > User wrote:
> > >
> > > The Scantech plastic valve that is available from Volvo or any of the
> > > other aftermarket sources is crap.
> > >
> > > I just saw an old timey regular, cable adjustable heat valve on a
> > > Daimler sports car the other day and it looked brand new and also very
> > > familiar. 1/2" in and out, 90* apart. Probably a British stanpart from
> > > the 60's through 80's.
> > >
> > > Bob
> > >
> > > --
> > > The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.

> >
> > What I find about those new valves is that they don't 100% seal off the
> > water. So a little always dribbles through the heater core, which adds
> > some heat. As most of us who ever drove 240s know, that's not the kind
> > of help that 240's A/C needs.
> >
> >

> I can generaly live with a little coolant bleed into the heater core.
> But the material is so thin at the ends of the plastic simulated pipe
> that they tend to break just like the valve on a 700/900. Only
> difference is the hot water runs all over your leg instead of out side
> in the engine compartment.
>
> Bob
> --
> The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.


Why not buy the original Volvo spare part?
At least here in Sweden there is no problem buying it at my local Volvo
dealer.

/ Johan


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Old 09-15-2005, 07:01   #8 (permalink)
Mike F
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

Johan Plane wrote:
>
> Why not buy the original Volvo spare part?
> At least here in Sweden there is no problem buying it at my local Volvo
> dealer.
>
> / Johan


The original metal valve is not available, not even from the dealer.
You used to be able to source the original part from the aftermarket,
even after it wasn't available through the dealers, but that seems to
have dried up now. You have to install the "upgrade" plastic part.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
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Old 09-15-2005, 16:02   #9 (permalink)
Johan Plane
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

Mike F wrote:

> Johan Plane wrote:
> >
> > Why not buy the original Volvo spare part?
> > At least here in Sweden there is no problem buying it at my local Volvo
> > dealer.
> >
> > / Johan

>
> The original metal valve is not available, not even from the dealer.
> You used to be able to source the original part from the aftermarket,
> even after it wasn't available through the dealers, but that seems to
> have dried up now. You have to install the "upgrade" plastic part.
>
> --
> Mike F.
> Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.
>
> Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
> (But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)


As i have already replied to John directly, the metal gizmo Vo part no
9131997 can be bought of the shelf at my local Volvo dealer for approx USD
94. With the copper heat sensor probe and wire operated.

Johan Plane
Uppsala, Sweden


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Old 09-16-2005, 09:01   #10 (permalink)
Mike F
Guest
 
Posts: n/a
Re: 240 heater repairs

Johan Plane wrote:
>
> As i have already replied to John directly, the metal gizmo Vo part no
> 9131997 can be bought of the shelf at my local Volvo dealer for approx USD
> 94. With the copper heat sensor probe and wire operated.
>
> Johan Plane
> Uppsala, Sweden


Very interesting, over here they give you the update kit 9131998, with
the new plastic valve.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)
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