I managed to pull the cam cover down with the cams resting in place on the
head. You need to do this very slowly & evenly, but it works. To compress the
cam-belt tensioner, I placed it on a sissor jack and lifted it against the
subframe bolt. Again, you have to do this very slowly to allow the piston
time to retract, but it works. Working on a Tank range has it's disadvantages,
not least an M1 Abrams firing in your left earhole when you are trying to
line the pulleys up, but I did find the job to be not beyond DIY capability.
Thanks for your advice.
>> > Is changing cam followers straight-forward, or are there any hidden
>> > nightmares to worry about?
>[quoted text clipped - 7 lines]
>> pull the upper part of the head up evenly, there's a special tool just
>> for this job.
>To add what Mike has knowledgeably said, you need a device (volvo tool or
>your own made one) to pull the top half back down onto the lower when you
>re-assemble (against the pressure of the valve springs) and also some wire
>both ends to fasten the cams to the top half as you lower them down. There
>is an off-centre slot in the dissy end of both cams you can slide a piece of
>flat metal into to lock them at 'tdc' position also.
>You need about 8 pairs of hands at this stage!
>The cam pulleys will need to come off, mark their position relative to the
>shafts with tippex or similar prior to releasing them- on some cars they are
>NOT keyed to the shaft. Beware.
>I would strong recommend using the puller when releasing the top cover to
>ensure it comes up evenly- as Mike said you will break the casting if it
>does not. It is located on about 8 dowels and it can be tight to release,
>but sometimes they pop up of their own accord.
>The tools I have are made a-la Haynes from 3 old plugs, the insultor and
>innards drilled out and some thread welded on with a cross piece and nut on
>the top. The cross piece straddles the cam cover. Install plugs in 1,3 and 5
>and you can pull the upper half down squarely very easily, or conversely let
>it spring up evenly.
>With respect to the sealer, Volvo sell both the removal thinners and the
>proper sealer stuff to re-assemble it with.
>On *no* account *ever* use instant gasket, or worse silicone, or anything
>else. You will have leaks all over the shop if not worse. The Volvo sealer
>comes with a fine hair roller, which after you have removed the old sealer
>with the thinners you apply a very thin layer with the roller.
>The new tappets must be soaked in clean engine oil for 24hrs first, and
>during this time use your fingers below oil level compress and release
>several times to prime them afew times.
>Hope this helps.
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