In article <email@example.com>,
> Thanks Randy.
> I did follow the reommended sequence (or at least the sequence outlined
> in a Hanes Manual for 240s).
> I think that part of the problem may also have been my helper who was
> pumping the pedal for me. I did my brakes one weekday afternoon and the
> only person around who I could enlist to help me was a neighbour's
> teenaged son.
> I don't think I was very successful in conveying the concept of "pump
> up and hold till I say "release" to him. I suspect that he may have
> just been pushing the pedal all the way to the mat.
> In any case, I'm going to try and rig up something with a stick and a
> bungee cord (or somesuch) so that I can do it myself.
> > 1) L.R
> > 2) L.F - single top bleeder
> > 3) R.F - single top bleeder
> > 4) R.R.
> > 5) R.F. - both lower bleeders
> > 6) L.F. - both lower bleeders
Take a gatorade bottle and tie a piece of string, wire or whatever
around the top below the threads. Leave a foot, eighteen inches or so
free beyond the top of the bottle. Find a piece of hose about a foot
long that fits snugly over the bleed screw nipple (Tygon hose from the
pet store (fish tank airline)works ok. Pour a little brake fluid into
the bottom of the bottle. Break the bleed screw loose and immediately
snug it back up. With the wrench on the bleeder connect the hose to the
bleed screw. Submerge the other end of the hose in the brake fluid on
the bottle. Use the string/wire to make a loop that allows the bottle to
be suspended from the bleed screw and keep the hose end sibmerged. Now
open the screw. Pump the brake pedal. Watch the bottle. When bubbles
stop and the fluid coming out is clear, as opposed to black and nasty,
that line is clear, flushed and bled. As long as the hose is connected
and under water you don't have to close the valve after every pump since
air can't enter the system. I use a long screwdriver to push the brake
pedal so that I can look under the car and watch the bottle (bubbles).
NB. Have lots of DOT4 brake fluid on hand and keep the reservoir
filled. Usually somewhere between 5-10 good, long, easy strokes will
empty the one side of the reservoir. You don't want the reservoir to go
dry simply because it takes a good while to refill and bleed a dry line.
You can use the sequence above or not. The factory sequence is the
easiest way to fill and bleed lines if the system is empty. Since you
already had fluid in the system it really doesn't matter. Just start
with the longest lines first (rears).
The goal when driving is to miss the maximum number of objects.