listerfarrar@telus.net

Just had the clutch re-done on my 86 740 turbo, 185,000km. I'm not a
mechanic, but wnt to know what's being done to my car. Especially
$1200 later!

Symptoms: clutch low, have to press right to floor, shifting starting
to feel a bit notchy

History: Clutch re-done at around 100,000 km. Hydraulic clutch bled 2
weeks ago, which caused no change.

Report after re-build: "45% left on clutch, problem likely due to
flywheel not being machined last time, but can't really tell. (after
follow-up with previous mechanic) "Can't tell if it was a pressure
plate problem."

Previous mechanic: Say's that if it was a flywheel problem it would
have caused shuddering. More likely that it was a pressure plate
failure.

So my questions are, is a pressure plate likely to fail after 80,000
km? Could not machining the flywheel cause this problem? Which is the
more likely cause? Any consequences for how we drive, reliability,
next likely problem?

Randy G.

listerfarrar@telus.net wrote:

>Just had the clutch re-done on my 86 740 turbo, 185,000km. I'm not a
>mechanic, but wnt to know what's being done to my car. Especially
>$1200 later!
>
>Symptoms: clutch low, have to press right to floor, shifting starting
>to feel a bit notchy
>
>History: Clutch re-done at around 100,000 km. Hydraulic clutch bled 2
>weeks ago, which caused no change.
>
>Report after re-build: "45% left on clutch, problem likely due to
>flywheel not being machined last time, but can't really tell. (after
>follow-up with previous mechanic) "Can't tell if it was a pressure
>plate problem."
>
>Previous mechanic: Say's that if it was a flywheel problem it would
>have caused shuddering. More likely that it was a pressure plate
>failure.
>
>So my questions are, is a pressure plate likely to fail after 80,000
>km? Could not machining the flywheel cause this problem? Which is the
>more likely cause? Any consequences for how we drive, reliability,
>next likely problem?
>

This points to a problem with the clutch master or slave cylinder.
With 45% left on the clutch (disk I assume), the excessive clearance
points elsewhere. Also, your stating that shifting elt notchy means
that teh clutch was not disengaging properly. It could have been in
combination with excessive clearance as well- that is, it might have
needed adjusting (if they are adjustable). Bleeding might not be the
problem if one of the cylinders was leaking.

$1200 for a clutch.. Hope that was Canadian! Sounds like they are
charging for original Volvo parts. A full clutch kit at FCP Groton is
about $259USD worst case (clutch disk, throwout bearing, pressure
plate and pilot bearing). How much was the labor cost?

You should get more than 85,000km (53,000 miles) from a clutch!


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

listerfarrar@telus.net

Thanks very much for your post.

I'm pretty sure the cyclinders were checked for leaking. That is the
first step before bleeding isn't it? It works fine now; how long
before a leak would show up again?

I'm told the hydraulic clutch is not adjustable.

It was $1200 Cdn for the whole job, parts labour and taxes, so not as
bad as it sounds.

What about the pressure plate failure the other mechanic suspected?
Could that explain the clearance problem?

Randy G.

listerfarrar@telus.net wrote:

>Thanks very much for your post.
>
>I'm pretty sure the cyclinders were checked for leaking. That is the
>first step before bleeding isn't it? It works fine now; how long
>before a leak would show up again?
>
I was not so worried about a leak as just an internal problem with one
of the cylinders not operating properly. If it is working now then
this was not the problem... or at least, if the mechaniuc is honest,
we can assume so.

>I'm told the hydraulic clutch is not adjustable.
>
Many are not- they "automatically" adjust.

>It was $1200 Cdn for the whole job, parts labour and taxes, so not as
>bad as it sounds.
>
That's is better news.

>What about the pressure plate failure the other mechanic suspected?
>Could that explain the clearance problem?
>
In the US (or at least in California) I believe tha tthe shop is
required to show you (or give you) the old parts unless you decide you
don't wan tthem. For that kind of money I would have carefully
inspected the old parts. But it is possible that if the old pressure
plate failed it could have caused the symptoms you mentioned.


__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"

listerfarrar@telus.net

I'm not sure I would have known what to look for if I had seen the
parts. Can you see the failure in a pressure plate? It apparently
wasn't obvious to the mechanic.

Thanks again for the posts.

Randy G.

listerfarrar@telus.net wrote:

>I'm not sure I would have known what to look for if I had seen the
>parts. Can you see the failure in a pressure plate? It apparently
>wasn't obvious to the mechanic.
>

A pressure plate can be checked with a scale of sufficient range and a
press of some sort. They should hold a specified amount of force
before releasing. Sometimes broken fingers or springs, bluing of the
friction surface, or cracking can be seen, and warpage can be checkled
with a straightedge.

__ __
Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
\__/olvos
'90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
"Shelby" & "Kate"