I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months ago
the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to turn
as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got my
new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door and
that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of
WD-40.
Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a
solution?
I have used an automotive key and lock spray solvent from Advance
Auto/AutoZone/Pep Boys/etc with excellent results. Over time the door lock
became more difficult to use, until one day the key could not turn the lock.
It was summer, so it wasn't frozen with water.
I sprayed it in the lock opening, then tried and the lock still would not
open but it was easier to get the key in and out. So I took a few minutes
and inserted/removed the key repeatedly, then gently twisted it up and down
repeatedly, until finally it broke free and unlocked the door. I sprayed
more and repeated the process a few times. I haven't had any more problems
with it.
Good luck,
NCMan
"Norbert" <norbs@sympatico.ca> wrote in message
news:Guhdf.2544$Tk1.111350@news20.bellglobal.com...
>I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months
>ago
> the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
> the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
> passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
> let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
> passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to
> turn
> as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
> order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got
> my
> new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door
> and
> that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of
> WD-40.
>
> Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a
> solution?
>
> Thanks in advance,
>
> Norbert
>
>
In article <Guhdf.2544$Tk1.111350@news20.bellglobal.com>,
Norbert <norbs@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months ago
>the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
>the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
>passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
>let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
>passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to turn
>as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
>order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got my
>new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door and
>that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of
>WD-40.
Don't use WD-40 for this; it's not a lubricant and will wash out what
little might still be in there.
>Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a
>solution?
For the door, spray a real oil in through the key opening, if that doesn't
free it up promptly, open the door from the inside, pull the interior panel,
and spray the lock cylinder, top and bottom. This would be a good time to
apply grease (not spray oil) to every moving part of the lock mechanism and
linkage. Make sure nothing is stuck or binding. If you have power windows,
clean and lube the track, too.
If you don't have an inside trunk release, try spraying oil into the key
opening of the lock and hope it works loose. If you have an inside release,
open the trunk and spray the cylinder as well as as through the key opening,
grease the linkages as above.
No wet lubricant should EVER be used in a lock. Locks need to be kept
clean and dry for proper operation and long life. Wet lubes will work
for the short term, but they draw dirt and when they dry out will
cause a lock to stick and eventually it won't work. The best thing is
proper maintenance and the best lubricant in dry graphite powder once
or twice a year. Next is a wet lube that dries completely leavuing a
dry lube behind (dri-slide?).
If a lock is sticking then the best thing is to remove it, clean it,
dry it, and lube it properly before replacing it.
Which reminds me... it's time to clean the rest of the door mechanisms
and locks! ;-)
"Norbert" <norbs@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>
>I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months ago
>the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
>the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
>passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
>let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
>passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to turn
>as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
>order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got my
>new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door and
>that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of
>WD-40.
>
>Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a
>solution?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Norbert
>
Here in UK it is standard practice to use a door lock lubricant spray to
keep the locks from freezing in wet winter weather. All the British
manufacturers had such a spray on their parts listing for purchase from
dealers. It is also recommended by Volvo AG (Swedish factories) so should be
fine. Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). I have always
used WD40 with enormous success, for this sort of job, as it is excellent at
repelling water and water-based infiltrants (made the word up but it seems
to fit).
All the best, Peter.
700/900/90 Register Keeper,
Volvo Owners Club (UK).
"Randy G." <frcn@DESPAMMOcncnet.com> wrote in message
news:hbacn1tkgo2u52ec8j12uerm68hm3r6r10@4ax.com...
> No wet lubricant should EVER be used in a lock. Locks need to be kept
> clean and dry for proper operation and long life. Wet lubes will work
> for the short term, but they draw dirt and when they dry out will
> cause a lock to stick and eventually it won't work. The best thing is
> proper maintenance and the best lubricant in dry graphite powder once
> or twice a year. Next is a wet lube that dries completely leavuing a
> dry lube behind (dri-slide?).
>
> If a lock is sticking then the best thing is to remove it, clean it,
> dry it, and lube it properly before replacing it.
>
> Which reminds me... it's time to clean the rest of the door mechanisms
> and locks! ;-)
>
>
>
> "Norbert" <norbs@sympatico.ca> wrote:
>>
>>I have a 1989 760 Turbo that the door locks ceased to turn. A few months
>>ago
>>the driver side lock wouldn't open, simply won't turn, as if I were using
>>the wrong key. I managed to go through the hassle of opening up the
>>passenger side door first so I can lift the lock up on the driver side to
>>let myself in. Up until yesterday the same key would unlock both the
>>passenger side door and the trunk however now the trunk lock refused to
>>turn
>>as well. So thinking it was simply a well worn out key I called Volvo to
>>order a brand new replacement. Well $40.00 (Canadian) dollars later I got
>>my
>>new key and of course it didn't work, it opened the passenger side door
>>and
>>that's all, driver side and trunk still won't open even with a squirt of
>>WD-40.
>>
>>Has anyone had this experience and most importantly does anyone have a
>>solution?
>>
>>Thanks in advance,
>>
>>Norbert
>>
>
> __ __
> Randy & \ \/ /alerie's
> \__/olvos
> '90 245 Estate - '93 965 Estate
> "Shelby" & "Kate"
In article <dl636u$iok$1@nwrdmz01.dmz.ncs.ea.ibs-infra.bt.com>,
Peter K L Milnes <Peter.K.L.Milnes@btinternet.com> wrote:
> [ ... ] Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
>Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
>ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
>on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
>Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). [ ... ]
Odd, I thought WD-40 was developed in 1953 and first sold for use on the
Atlas missile program, which was some years after Fat Man--a 1945 design.
> Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
> Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
> ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
> on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
> Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). I have always
> used WD40 with enormous success, for this sort of job, as it is excellent at
> repelling water and water-based infiltrants (made the word up but it seems
> to fit).
Peter, I did not realize that WD-40 was available in 1945 in pressurized cans i
presume. Thanks for this 1st hand information!
On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 01:00:15 +0000 (UTC), "Peter K L Milnes"
<Peter.K.L.Milnes@btinternet.com> wrote:
>Here in UK it is standard practice to use a door lock lubricant spray to
>keep the locks from freezing in wet winter weather. All the British
>manufacturers had such a spray on their parts listing for purchase from
>dealers. It is also recommended by Volvo AG (Swedish factories) so should be
>fine. Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
>Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
>ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
>on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
>Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). I have always
>used WD40 with enormous success, for this sort of job, as it is excellent at
>repelling water and water-based infiltrants (made the word up but it seems
>to fit).
>
>All the best, Peter.
>
>700/900/90 Register Keeper,
>Volvo Owners Club (UK).
Fat man had to work only once
Although WD40 is not a lubricant it sometimes works by dissolving and
carrying some of the leftover lubricant in the desired location. WD40 than
evaporates leaving some of the original lubricant behind. Use too much and
you wash everything out like here already someone said. WD40 is also great
for torching tent caterpillar nests but I digress.
>On Sun, 13 Nov 2005 01:00:15 +0000 (UTC), "Peter K L Milnes"
><Peter.K.L.Milnes@btinternet.com> wrote:
>
>>Here in UK it is standard practice to use a door lock lubricant spray to
>>keep the locks from freezing in wet winter weather. All the British
>>manufacturers had such a spray on their parts listing for purchase from
>>dealers. It is also recommended by Volvo AG (Swedish factories) so should be
>>fine. Incidentally if any of you have worked on Fat Man (American 6,000lb
>>Atom Bomb), as I have, you will realise the benefits of WD40. It was the
>>ONLY lubricant/anti-freeze agent recommended for the electrical connectors
>>on the Bomb Carrier which hooked up in the Bomb Bay with Fat Man on it. The
>>Bomb Bay was subject to extreme cold (less than -55 degs C). I have always
>>used WD40 with enormous success, for this sort of job, as it is excellent at
>>repelling water and water-based infiltrants (made the word up but it seems
>>to fit).
>>
>>All the best, Peter.
>>
>>700/900/90 Register Keeper,
>>Volvo Owners Club (UK).
>
> Fat man had to work only once
>
>Although WD40 is not a lubricant it sometimes works by dissolving and
>carrying some of the leftover lubricant in the desired location. WD40 than
>evaporates leaving some of the original lubricant behind. Use too much and
>you wash everything out like here already someone said. WD40 is also great
>for torching tent caterpillar nests but I digress.
>
>
Speaking of military works and flammable substances....
My dad worked on a number of military contracts as a machinist back in
the 60's. he would bring home coffee cans filled with magnesium alloy
shavings from his job and for 4th of July we would set off a pile of
them on a concrete slab and then hit it with the hose. Couldn't see
for about 10 minutes afterwards, but it sure was a lot of fun!
Count me as one who hates locks that have been WD-40'd. Maybe it only occurs
in high temperature areas, but I have encountered a lot of locks at work
(when I was in the Phoenix area) that were sprayed when WD-40 was legal for
linemen to carry. (It is flammable, so they have to use silicone now.) WD-40
turns to a gum in a year or so, and spraying anything in the lock except
more WD-40 will change it from being sticky to barely (or even not) turning
at all. WD-40 will redissolve the goo... if you can get the key out.
Padlocks that have been sprayed with WD-40 aren't worth messing with.
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