Mike F

Clay wrote:
>
> Mike,
> I also have high nox problems ('83 245) and have been looking for a fix
> to get it to pass (CA) smog.
> There's an article on brickboard that describes what you're suggesting.
> It talks about a "control unit transducer" and plugging a line to it. I
> looked all over the net (and in my manual) and couldn't find a
> picture/description of the unit so I could find it and plug the line...
> If this is the same as the unit on the washer bottle, thanks for
> identifying it! Is the vacuum line you refer to on the side of the unit,
> toward the front of the car?
> Now, on to my dilemma.
> First time I had it smogged, it passed the pre test.
> Took it two blocks over to the test station. The tech at the smog
> station noticed this vacuum line disconnected, hooked it up and the car
> failed. (pinging badly I might add)
> I plugged the line and reconnected it and that causes the motor to ping
> so much I'm afraid it's going to burn a piston. undrivable.
> Why (if you know) would the motor run fine and pass smog with the line
> disconnected and unplugged but rattle so much with it plugged?
> I'm tempted to cut a hole in the line where it's not visible, just to
> get it to pass.

What you're looking at is the correct thing.
The only thing I can think of is that you managed to trap a vacuum
inside the transducer, which would put the timing on impossible advance
at all times. As long as there's full ambient pressure trapped in there
you should be fine.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Clay

Mike F wrote:
> What you're looking at is the correct thing.
> The only thing I can think of is that you managed to trap a vacuum
> inside the transducer, which would put the timing on impossible advance
> at all times. As long as there's full ambient pressure trapped in there
> you should be fine.
>
Thanks Mike.
I thought about what if the plug leaked and pulled a vacuum in the
transducer then didn't let it equalize.
We'll try it again & check for a good seal...
What do you think about tossing 10% methanol in the tank for the test?

Mike F

Clay wrote:
>
> Mike F wrote:
> > What you're looking at is the correct thing.
> > The only thing I can think of is that you managed to trap a vacuum
> > inside the transducer, which would put the timing on impossible advance
> > at all times. As long as there's full ambient pressure trapped in there
> > you should be fine.
> >
> Thanks Mike.
> I thought about what if the plug leaked and pulled a vacuum in the
> transducer then didn't let it equalize.
> We'll try it again & check for a good seal...
> What do you think about tossing 10% methanol in the tank for the test?

Methanol will help reduce combustion temperatures so it can't hurt.

--
Mike F.
Thornhill (near Toronto), Ont.

Replace tt with t (twice!) and remove parentheses to email me directly.
(But I check the newsgroup more often than this email address.)

Clay

Mike F wrote:

> What you're looking at is the correct thing.
> The only thing I can think of is that you managed to trap a vacuum inside
> the transducer, which would put the timing on impossible advance
> at all times. As long as there's full ambient pressure trapped in there you
> should be fine.

fwiw, after installing a plug (that didn't leak) all numbers fell to within
acceptable range and passed smog.
The tech (same guy had checked it for the past 8 years) scratched his head
when it passed quickly, without the usual pinging. He's no dummy, he knew what
was up. All he said was 'you're a smart guy...'
Can't say if mileage is affected, still haven't fixed the gear on the odo. I
don't drive it hard enough to tell if there is a performance hit.
It will run on regular or mid-range now instead of premium so that's cool.
Think I'll leave it plugged...
Thanks again Mike.
Clay